To those that are ACTIVE or want to or plan to

I'm looking to go active, just to be able to tune how I like it. Idc about competition or anything, but the sony h/u and the the amp crossovers just aren't cutting it right now. What do you think of the DDA-W series?
Don't give a shit about them as I never looked into them. I'm not sure if you got the point of this thread. YOu might want to read it again, or just read the whole thing, if you haven't. twice might help, too.

I like to watch certain movies multiple times. Each time re-watch the movie, I notice something that didn't before. same with pr0n

 
Keep in mind some competitors have used pairs of ambient super tweets up top in the A pillar in addition to their "main" tweets in the kicks just to play the upper harmonics above where most tweets naturally die off (maybe 12.5-15k). That subtitly can really do a lot in the frequencies where are ears are most sensitive to intensity differences.
This is why I use EQ before T/A on my tweeters. Depending on who you ask, it's intensity the provides localization above 2khz. Below, it's time arrival...which is why one can get away with MB's in the rear quarters, back doors, floor, etc. [think RC's Grand National].

Exactly. Try flipping R/L phase and see what happens. On mine it does very little as well. I think it's because phase doesn't alter intensity.
I think because the wavelengths are much shorter in higher frequencies, our ears are too stupid to distinguish a difference, however slight it may be.

 
Ideal - just free air everything and sit it on the extra seats and floor. Then if it doesn't sound right, just take a hard sharp turn, and see if it fixes it.

Note - strong wire and welding recommended.

 
Ideal - just free air everything and sit it on the extra seats and floor. Then if it doesn't sound right, just take a hard sharp turn, and see if it fixes it.
Note - strong wire and welding recommended.
my funny bone might be broken.. i didnt' get that.

 
I wanted to go active to add another dimension to my car audio experience. I wanted to have perfectly sounding music where I could here every tiny detail in the music. Then it happened. I found out I liked bass better, so that's where all my money went.

 
I wanted to go active to add another dimension to my car audio experience. I wanted to have perfectly sounding music where I could here every tiny detail in the music. Then it happened. I found out I liked bass better, so that's where all my money went.
I know what you mean. All my money went into my midbass and now the FR of my setup looks like this:

RTA4-10-09-1.jpg


 
Why?
Why do you want to go active? because everyone else is doing it?

What is your goal with it? What happens after you go active?

You set the crossover points... then what?

Will it automatically make your speakers sound better just because you get to set your own crossover points?

What if you set your crossover points that's exactly like the passive crossover of the comp set (assuming it's a component set)?

What's with this new active movement?

Please try to reply without using the term "SQ."
If it were simply setting crossover points then I would see no need for my 3sixty. The draw for me was that one single processing unit can now do so much more than just direct frequencies. Independent output adjustment for all channels, time alignment, independent eqs for each channel all in one component. No need to install passive bricks somewhere, and mount eqs in the car, etc. Aesthetically it is a cleaner look while offering more control.

 
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James Bang

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