to FUSE or not to FUSE?

i probably wont drive my van as much when i redo it over the winter.i still have my crx that'l have 4 12s in it on a goliath.fuse from the front battery to the back and thats it.
Nice... Murilo should be able to show you what I'm talking about. Sold copper carstock directly from the battery to the amp.

 
The fact that you post scores and claim to compete, and then ask a question as blatantly stupid as this one just baffles me. You want an answer and supporting evidence though, so here it goes.

You have the option of whether or not to fuse the Big3 upgrade because the factory didn't anyways. But not fusing a large gauge wire tapped directly into the positive lead that runs the entire length of the car is just stupid. With that long of a wire and it being so close to many grounds, it only takes 1 breach in the insulator to ground out. And depending on where it shorts, and how strong the connection is, you're going to have problems.

Most people don't understand how an electrical fire starts, so let me break it down for you. Think of it this way... any electrical device has some sort of resistance to it, and when a voltage is applied, electricity flows. To increase the flow of electricity, you either need to lower the resistance or increase the voltage. Wires are rated in amps, NOT volts. You can be pushing only a couple of volts through something, but if the load on the circuit is low resistance, you'll be drawing quite a large amount of amperage.

Now, imagine the wire is pinched, it goes through the insulator and grounds out. Now there is a 12V+ power source touched a GIGANTIC ground (your entire car) and it goes right back to the battery. Basically, the circuit has almost NO resistance and a 12V source being applied. That wire is now going to carrying an ASSLOAD of current. Far greater than it could possibly ever hope to manage.

But it's all good bro, shit happens, that's what the fuse is for. Fuse pops and the circuit is interrupted.

OH SHIT! YOU DIDN'T FUSE DID YOU?

Bummer, the wire is going to heat up so hot that it physically melts and catches the insulator on fire. And who would have guessed that was right underneath your car's carpet.

I think you get the idea, FUSE it or leave the forums //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 
The fact that you post scores and claim to compete, and then ask a question as blatantly stupid as this one just baffles me. You want an answer and supporting evidence though, so here it goes.
You have the option of whether or not to fuse the Big3 upgrade because the factory didn't anyways. But not fusing a large gauge wire tapped directly into the positive lead that runs the entire length of the car is just stupid. With that long of a wire and it being so close to many grounds, it only takes 1 breach in the insulator to ground out. And depending on where it shorts, and how strong the connection is, you're going to have problems.

Most people don't understand how an electrical fire starts, so let me break it down for you. Think of it this way... any electrical device has some sort of resistance to it, and when a voltage is applied, electricity flows. To increase the flow of electricity, you either need to lower the resistance or increase the voltage. Wires are rated in amps, NOT volts. You can be pushing only a couple of volts through something, but if the load on the circuit is low resistance, you'll be drawing quite a large amount of amperage.

Now, imagine the wire is pinched, it goes through the insulator and grounds out. Now there is a 12V+ power source touched a GIGANTIC ground (your entire car) and it goes right back to the battery. Basically, the circuit has almost NO resistance and a 12V source being applied. That wire is now going to carrying an ASSLOAD of current. Far greater than it could possibly ever hope to manage.

But it's all good bro, shit happens, that's what the fuse is for. Fuse pops and the circuit is interrupted.

OH SHIT! YOU DIDN'T FUSE DID YOU?

Bummer, the wire is going to heat up so hot that it physically melts and catches the insulator on fire. And who would have guessed that was right underneath your car's carpet.

I think you get the idea, FUSE it or leave the forums //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif
Real men pull burning wire //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

Walled_Taraus did the same thing as described with a small piece of 16ga.. Luckily he was quick enough to yank the wire before his car burnt down. I think he is still scared by it too.

 
how do you fuse an amp that pulls over 1600amps of current

LOOOOOOOOOOL. What amp do you have that pulls 1,600A of current. You do realize that CURRENT DRAW=/=WATTS

Even though you said over 1600, lets assume 1600A on the dot. If you've got an amp pulling a legit 1600 amps and it's a class D amp (assume about 90% efficient) running at 14.4V, that would yield about 20k watts.

It takes you 20k watts to get a score in the 150's? Lulz

 
LOOOOOOOOOOL. What amp do you have that pulls 1,600A of current. You do realize that CURRENT DRAW=/=WATTS
Even though you said over 1600, lets assume 1600A on the dot. If you've got an amp pulling a legit 1600 amps and it's a class D amp (assume about 90% efficient) running at 14.4V, that would yield about 20k watts.

It takes you 20k watts to get a score in the 150's? Lulz
try to keep up dude.. he's getting a SD16k

16k at 12volts IIRC

 
i dont run fuses,eather and i compete and i win more offen then none, i never had a problem i run 12 runs threw the fire wall 6 neg 6 pos, then i sprayed the wires in place so no chance of it moving

 
try to keep up dude.. he's getting a SD16k
16k at 12volts IIRC
If he's into car audio enough to even know about the SD16k, then he should know that not one single wire or fuse can handle 1600A of current. Obviously, several runs of cable with multiple fuses in parallel are in order along with alot of batteries + buss bars.

Him ranting about buying premier audio equipment and then asking dumbass shit like this is just insulting to the car audio community. Everyone has their price limit and their goals in car audio. No need to be a poser ****** and make dumb ****ing threads like this, because god knows this isn't the first...

probably not the last either:rolleyes:

 
066.jpg


i never took another updated pic,, but i also have a explorer that i have, that i was useing 2 12k SD amps, and i never had problems

 
I haven't from any of you Team Hazardous guys in a while. What has Brock been doing?
brock bought a 08 wrx. ran 2 DD 8" s with a crunch grond pounder 3000dp, in a truck and just wasent competivly loud, so sold everything audio, and just rocking the wrx, with some bolt on performance parts,,he s 21, hill be back some time in life lol

 
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