Tired, close to breaking things.

[oneflatoniakid 10+ year member]

Not trying to b a smart a$$, but why don't let a pro tech check it out ?

Seems like you got most of the work done already,should'nt cost much.

 

[goodstuff 10+ year member]

Cause the pro will have even less of a clue than the op as to wtf is wrong as he didn't wire it himself and will want tp pull it all out and start over. Sometimes it just takes a little stopping and thinking...not saying you haven't done that but I know how stressful it can be...sometimes it's easier to walk away and come back later when your head is clear.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Have you regrounded your HU yet?
Wiring a speaker out of phase will NEVER damage it. I don't know how you managed to fry the voice coil, unless your gain was maxed out. You can fry a tweeter by hooking it up to the mid output on the crossover, but not the other way around. The only bad results you could get from changing phase is bass cancellation, or destructive interference with the tweeter due to the relative phase differences when the soundwaves approach your head. But it all depends on placement anyway.

Speaking of placement, did you really install your tweeters in different locations on the doors?

The noise issue when starting up songs could be part of the grounding issue. Make sure that whenever you ground something you grind down the metal so it's shiny. Then use a ring terminal soldered or at least crimped onto the wire and clamp it tight to the metal with a screw.

Let us know how it goes.

I'm about to ground the head unit; actually the reason for the voice coil burnage was probably because during the installation process, a random allen wrench attached to the magnet of the motor of the midbass. I didn't discover this until after I took the midbass out.

-.-

As for the tweeters, the door panels are designed differently so basically positioning them in the same location across was the original plan but not achievable.

Originally both tweeters were planned to be installed in the same location as the one thats currently on the door panel attached to the door but due to the size of the dash and other issues involving the door panels this was not to be.

And thus I continue on my first car audio installation. By the way that this installation is going, I probably will have tripped, fallen over and maybe eventually solved most if not all common car audio issues. Should help with any future installation so I don't make the same mistake on more expensive equipment.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Not trying to b a smart a$$, but why don't let a pro tech check it out ?Seems like you got most of the work done already,should'nt cost much.

I actually took my vehicle to a pro car audio installation shop because of the lack time I have to actually install the equipment and they pretty much told me that it was near impossible to fit the 6.5" speakers in the 6x8 location without cutting into the metal plate of the door.

They also estimated the cost of installing the component system to around $150.

Oh yeah, and they also recommended the rockford fosgate 6x8 comps(with the detachable tweets) and politely told me that they thought my phoenix gold rsd set was shit and that kicker subwoofers are bad along with shallow mounts which "don't do what they're suppose to do"(loud in small places? :S).

Oh well, the guy claimed he was eclipse and boston acoustics guy.

So..yeah.

 

[iamamp3pimp 5,000+ posts]

Today was the component system install day for my truck and everything was ready to go.
I was going to hook up my Phoenix Gold Rsd 6.5" component set to my Profile AP1000 2-Channel amplifier. So immediately I removed the door panel of my truck and any/all other parts that needed to be taken off for the wiring. Luckily, Ford conveniently uses high quality plastic clips and pieces which can stand large amounts of abuse to hold their panels in(sarcasm). But it wasn't the first time I have taken the door panels and other parts off and it sure wouldn't be the last.

After the door panels were removed and set aside, we began to cut the wholes into the panel where the tweeters would comfortably sit out of the range of the window roller and where they would not hinder the insertion of the door panel after the components were installed. So after the tweeters were placed in the door panel, and the mdf baffles were bolted into the door to hold the midbass....and the crossover was also mounted in the door panel; it was time to do the wiring to the devices.

Immediately I ran the wire from the amplifier to the crossover and so forth from there running from under the step cover. Everything was wired up and unfortunately unknown to my knowledge, I had wired the polarity wrong due the diagram on the amplifier which confused me. So when I turned the radio on, I was greeted with a nice popping noise from the midbass, a nice little clicking noise from the tweeter and a wonderful burnt smell emitting from the door panel. Immediately I knew what was wrong and quickly re-wired, but the damage had already been done though the tweeter began to work properly(to an extent), the midbass voice coil had been fried. So I replaced the burnt woofer with the woofer from the other side, it all sounded fine now with some adjustment with the gain and crossover from the amplifier.

Unfortunately my dilemma consisted in replacing the midbass and that would solve the problem right? Unfortunately more problems appeared, besides the difficulties in placing some of the plastic panel pieces back into the truck, when I tried to put the other door panel on, I discovered that my measurements were off and that the screw holding the spring in the tweeter conflicted with the metal frame of the door panel which rendered the door panel unable to go on the frame. Great....

Dilemma number 2, which would honestly just call for a shorter screw and hopefully, though not positive, that might solve that dilemma, so I turn the HU on once again. But instead of the nice actual sound that came from the tweeter and midbass last night, I was greeted by a high-pitch squeal.

Between the difficulty of getting some of the pieces back on the vehicle, the continous tweeter and midbass problems, and the problem concerning the tweeter placement on the other door panel. I am this close to taking a sledge hammer to the vehicle and system entirely, and sad thing is....the actual change in performance from wrecking the whole ordeal would not differ from the current performance Im getting out of it now.

Any tips, ffs just someone help me. -.-

when you have a passive crossover and one speaker that is blown, it acts as a dead short in the crossover, therefore ruining that, as well as the amp, unless it has overload protection.

-RB

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

when you have a passive crossover and one speaker that is blown, it acts as a dead short in the crossover, therefore ruining that, as well as the amp, unless it has overload protection.
-RB

I would agree but the amplifier and crossover works fine besides the alternator whine which seems to be a fault with the HU's ground.

 

[XanderMoser 10+ year member]

I'm about to ground the head unit; actually the reason for the voice coil burnage was probably because during the installation process, a random allen wrench attached to the magnet of the motor of the midbass. I didn't discover this until after I took the midbass out.
...

And thus I continue on my first car audio installation. By the way that this installation is going, I probably will have tripped, fallen over and maybe eventually solved most if not all common car audio issues. Should help with any future installation so I don't make the same mistake on more expensive equipment.

An allen wrench stuck to the magnet won't fry a voice coil. The only way to fry a coil is to seriously overpower it...or send it clipped signals.

That's a very positive way of looking at your installation issues.

Oh, I forgot. That's not MDF...it's chipboard.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Ive grounded the HU's ground to the same location that the amplifiers are grounded; still squealing... -.-

Actually the squealing has died down a tad but it is still present but can not be heard when the volume is turned up.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Anything?

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

Upgrade your battery - to chassis ground... all those grounds (amps and hu) have to go through the chassis and through some wire to finally be grounded (at the batt) so upgrade that wire and see if it helps as well...

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Upgrade your battery - to chassis ground... all those grounds (amps and hu) have to go through the chassis and through some wire to finally be grounded (at the batt) so upgrade that wire and see if it helps as well...

I will be trying two new ground alternatives tomorrow. Would this also help solve the fact that I can hear the CD reading and thump when I play a CD and ofcourse the slight static.

I will be wiring the ground to the distribution block and if that doesnt work I will try wiring the HU's ground directly to the - of the battery.

ATM, I need to work on getting a new midbass, I cut off the screw length and polyfill/grilles for the subwoofers and ofcourse....raamat for the doors.

This is my first install and I'm currently on the last stretch of it.

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

I will be trying two new ground alternatives tomorrow. Would this also help solve the fact that I can hear the CD reading and thump when I play a CD and ofcourse the slight static.
I will be wiring the ground to the distribution block and if that doesnt work I will try wiring the HU's ground directly to the - of the battery.

ATM, I need to work on getting a new midbass, I cut off the screw length and polyfill/grilles for the subwoofers and ofcourse....raamat for the doors.

This is my first install and I'm currently on the last stretch of it.

I think the new grounding will help... after that I'm not sure... direct to the battery or to the distro block should work... Also if you are running a ground to the battery you might as well run the +12v main power to the battery as well, just to be sure you aren't getting a noisy power source ? I'm not privy to electrical theory so I can't really say with total certainty but it seems like it's worth doing..

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Congrats on not giving up and overcoming several obstacles. Some installs will fight you all the way to the end, but the experience you gain is priceless. Hope you get it all sorted out soon and can enjoy your efforts...

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Raamat is going to be interesting...

Layer on the outer door frame, double behind speaker, ensolite behind speaker, coat inner door frame, trim/ make sure all mechanics are still workable.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

1. How come my CD player remains to turn on even with the ground wire coming from the receiver to the wiring harness is snipped?

What brought this question up was because I was trying new ground locations and accidently once turned the radio on without the ground being grounded and the radio still came on and played normally. So then I took a look behind the HU and disconnected the ground(black wire) that I spliced to the new ground(not the factory) and turned the radio on again and once again, the HU successfull came on with the black(ground wire) completely severed.

:S