Tired, close to breaking things.

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Suggestion: Pay attention to how things were when you take them apart...that way you can put them back together properly.

Ive done it several times, for what reason it won't come together right again I do not know?

Ive done nothing different from the regular procedure that Ive done around 5-6 times so far.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

So problem solved? What was grounding?

Sadly, the problem isn't solved as I thought...for some odd reason it started the squealing again. The oddity of this problem is that the pitch of the squealing gets higher and lower based on the truck's momentum, such as if the gas pedal is pressed the tweeter will emit a loud high pitch squeal and lower for when the break is pressed, also the volume of the HU has no effect on the squealing.

 

[djman37 5,000+ posts]

^^^ that's called alternator whine.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

How do I fix this?

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Ok

So its engine whine but whats causing this problem and lets see how I can fix it.

"

Shielded RCA's

A good pair of shielded RCA's may be the easiest way to avoid engine noise. Don't use patch cables or other el-cheap-o RCA's that are unshielded. I'm not saying you need to invest a small fortune in RCA cables, just make sure they are shielded."

Im using Krystal KnuKonceptz RCA's, properly shielded...

"Proper head unit ground

This is perhaps the most common source of engine noise. Many times factory head unit grounds are poor. Relocating the ground wire or adding to the existing one will help reduce or eliminate ground loops."

I am using the factory head unit grounds but Ive never had an issue with it before with the sub woofers.

Proper amplifier ground

If none of the above have worked, check the ground for the amplifier. Make sure it is grounded to the frame, battery, or other substantial metal surface. Make sure the metal is good 'ol fashioned detroit iron. Many cars use metallic alloys or composites that aren't very conductive. Avoid those at all costs.

Amplifier ground works fine and is fine.

Wire routing

Some claim this next fix is BS, and others swear by their grave that it works. But run your RCA's and power wires at least 18" apart. I route my RCA's on one side of the car, and power on the other. Couldn't hurt.

This is already done as my RCA cables go to the amplifiers which are located on each side of the vehicle...the main power wire goes to the distribution block in the middle and also goes to its location across from the RCA's and not near, The two cables may cross each other at a location but thats about as much closeness as they get.

Grounding the RCA's on the head unit

Many have had problems with Pioneer head units because of a poor internal RCA ground. To remedy this, simply wrap wire around the RCA's and screw the wire down to the head unit's chassis like so:

Im pretty sure this isnt an issue.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Should I make a new ground? If the HU's ground the problem, how come I'm not getting an alternator whine from the subwoofers?

Any help would be nice.

I can also hear the sounds of the HU reading and rotating the CD while it reads it before the music plays, anyway to eliminate this?

I disconnected the RCA cables from the amp and the whine went away so the amplifier and speaker wiring should be fine. I havent had a alt whine issue with the mono amplifier and subwoofers so would that isolate the problem to just the RCA cables going to the 2-channel amplifier and not bad grounding of the HU?

 

[AcidicDreams 10+ year member]

Should I make a new ground? If the HU's ground the problem, how come I'm not getting an alternator whine from the subwoofers?
Any help would be nice.

I can also hear the sounds of the HU reading and rotating the CD while it reads it before the music plays, anyway to eliminate this?

I disconnected the RCA cables from the amp and the whine went away so the amplifier and speaker wiring should be fine. I havent had a alt whine issue with the mono amplifier and subwoofers so would that isolate the problem to just the RCA cables going to the 2-channel amplifier and not bad grounding of the HU?

ground the headunit on it's own, don't use the factory ground. Ground it to the biggest chunk of steel you can find (usually the dash frame) and make the ground it's own new grounding point...

see how much of the noise that clears up...

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

Cut the tweeter mounting screw down with a hacksaw or drill a small hole in the door metal, so it can slide through, easy fix.

Still not sure how wiring backwards fried your mid as normally you can wire out of phase with no issues.

I installed a set of RSD comps for a guy a few weeks ago and they sounded very nice, so don't give up as you'll be happy when it's all sorted out.

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

Still not sure how wiring backwards fried your mid as normally you can wire out of phase with no issues.

Yes that surprised me. Now to acquire a new PG RSD 6.5" midbass. Any suggestions?

 

[Trepkos 10+ year member]

ground the headunit on it's own, don't use the factory ground. Ground it to the biggest chunk of steel you can find (usually the dash frame) and make the ground it's own new grounding point...
see how much of the noise that clears up...

Only real metal I can find is right below the dash and HU, which is the chassis floor of the truck. So I'll try that; but why would that only affect the component system and not the subwoofers. I mean if the factory ground was bad, wouldn't the alternator whine be present through the woofers and/or any other audio devices hooked up to the HU?

 

[IamDeMan 5,000+ posts]

So I'll try that; but why would that only affect the component system and not the subwoofers.

Because your low pass subwoofer filter is, well, filtering it out //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/blackeye.gif.66a1670f5aaf7f406e783a63e3387dc5.gifThe frequency of the whine is well above the operating range of your sub channel. The whine is originating from the HU and being sent to the amp in the RCAs audio signal, therefore it is being treated and processed with the rest of the audio signal. I hope that clears it up for you.

 

[Lubega 10+ year member]

When I got that loud high pitched squeel, my amp was grounding out on metal.. I used a screw to hold it down, and was touching the metal of the car, causing that screaching sound.. not sure if its the same deal though..
Andrew

Man, I want to see the pictures of your older install in the '97 Expedition, with those older Audiobahn Immortals. You seem to have been relatively proud of it. Have you taken them down? They aren't showing up for some reason on the link when I click it...

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[XanderMoser 10+ year member]

Have you regrounded your HU yet?

Wiring a speaker out of phase will NEVER damage it. I don't know how you managed to fry the voice coil, unless your gain was maxed out. You can fry a tweeter by hooking it up to the mid output on the crossover, but not the other way around. The only bad results you could get from changing phase is bass cancellation, or destructive interference with the tweeter due to the relative phase differences when the soundwaves approach your head. But it all depends on placement anyway.

Speaking of placement, did you really install your tweeters in different locations on the doors?

The noise issue when starting up songs could be part of the grounding issue. Make sure that whenever you ground something you grind down the metal so it's shiny. Then use a ring terminal soldered or at least crimped onto the wire and clamp it tight to the metal with a screw.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[mlstrass 5,000+ posts]

You could also run some 10g from the HU straight to the battery if you don't find a good ground under the dash...