Tips to avoid getting jacked

Over kill is good though guys. IASCA used to give some kewl points for alarms. I had a 1988 Samuri that we mounted the alarm in the drivers side rear quarter panel, ran the wires through flex conduit and welded the panel shut, except a small hole we had to drill to fill the compartment with "stuff it" expanding spray. We used hood locks (like on dragsters, but the locking ones) to hold a rear deck panel over the sub box, the only way to get the box was to remove the subs.

I have pics, i'll have to scan in of the "screewies" we used... we machined them on a Harbor Freight lathe, they were smooth topped except for two small holes, the "driver" would fit into those two holes... it was the most awesome thing ever created... Until one of the screews became rusty from the body sitting for a year while a tube frame was being built for it...

I loved that truck - can I say ex-wives just **** really bad...

 
Don't just use one kind of Torx Security screws to secure your woofer- buy 6 or 8 different kinds, that will keep them busy! Allen bits, etc... They will have to make a trip to Menards to buy bits just to take the **** subs out. Also, a recessed mount install will keep the thief from using a crowbar to pry the sub out.

Epoxy/secure your power cable/RCA cables to the sheetmetal in one or two places- if they have time they will jerk that out. Power cable is expensive too!

Secure a short lenght of chain onto the steel basket of your HU, and bolt it to a solid piece of sheetmetal.

Build you box so big they have to use a forklift to move it.

That's all I can think of- the ideas about keeping thieves out from under the hood are great! Keep the ideas coming, this is great.

 
Good tips, does anybody know where you can buy tear gas and an electronic opener? I was wondering if you could connect a relay that would switch on once the alarm goes on and that would open heavy amounts of tear gas. Just a thought.

 
I also had another idea, I remember shocking myself with 4,500v from a kit made strobe light that was powered off of a nine volt. Well it hurt very badly, I touched my right hand on the bulbs contacts I could feel all the hairs on my head and my hairs on both arms. The body on a car is metal btw, just giving some ideas for consideration. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/naughty.gif.94359f346c0f1259df8038d60b41863e.gif

 
Good tips, does anybody know where you can buy tear gas and an electronic opener? I was wondering if you could connect a relay that would switch on once the alarm goes on and that would open heavy amounts of tear gas. Just a thought.


There is a security system that releases harmless thick smoke into the interior when triggered.

The purpose is so the thief can't see what he is going to steal.

 
Has anyone tried to use a glass protective film? I remember seeing something about some on a TV show were a professional thief breaks into a house. And they applied this film to keep the glass from completely breaking, kind of like this stuff:
http://www.seton.com/seton/catalog/browseSpaceCode.do?spaceCode=EO9


The TV show was 'It Takes A Thief' on The Discovery Channel. I saw it also.

I bought some 3M clear security window film from the local Commercial, Residential & Auto Tint shop. Much thicker than normal tint, but applies the same way. I put it on the garage windows.

Here are some more security window film links:

http://www.shattergard.com/home.htm

http://www.usace.com/auto.htm

 
lol use an emi bomb frie all ur electrical system in a second along with quite a few blocks or Electromagnetic Bomb or Electromagnetic Pulse Bomb .... so how u wanna send me the money lol
or hey i could use my mass powers and cause a solar flare to shoot sum cosmic rays at ur car that will whipe out all ur electrical system to
Am I being stupid but wouldn't that render all the ice in the car unuseable too making the whole exercise of breaking in to steal stuff pointless?//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
I just installed my new alarm(viper 791) and this time i did it right. The brain is far away from the the usual location, have a back batt now, two piezo inside the cabin one in the trunk and those are unreachable or very hard to get to, broken window sensor plus all the wire are all black. I tried to stay in cabine while the alarm is going and for the life of me i couln'd stand it for more than 5 seconds...//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crazy.gif.c13912c32de98515d3142759a824dae7.gif

 
Good tips. My system has been jacked twice in the last 20 years and both times the thiefs hit the cars in the driveway during a thunderstorm. Guess they figured the shock sensors would all be tripped from the thunder if the car had one and the owners would ignore. Best feature to add on for me was motion detectors inside the vehicle. As soon they enter the alarms go off...even if the sensors are dialed down so low as not to go off during thunder.

Yes. Standard Ins coverage on aftermarket audio is $1k. Also, some Ins companies won't cover anything that isn't bolted to the vehicle, i.e subs.

 
From my experience, most thieves are people you know. A good deterrent for receivers is to show people that you're taking the faceplate out of the car instead of hiding it in the center console or glove compartment. They might be kind of big, but it's better to have it in your pocket (or purse for the ladies) than have it in a theives hands.

Most of us have done it in the past, taken the faceplate off when we first get the receiver installed, then we get lazy and start to leave it on, or take it off and put it under the seat, in the glove compartment, sun visor (kind of stupid but I've seen it done), center console, or (the absolute worst) in the front seat. Alot of the would-be theives are the ones you know that may be deadbeats or have fallen on bad times and claim to be cool with you but are only trying to rip you and others off.

 
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