Several days ago, I got a brand new Alpine type 3 1043D sub in my 2000 Z28 Camaro. I thought that it would blow my VERY old 10 inch JLW6V1 out of the water, but it just doesn't sound as good.
I'm not sure if it was installed incorrectly, but the W6 seemed to fill my car with base unlike the Alpine. In order to get it to hit about the same as the W6, I needed to set the "sub woofer"seeting to max, had to turn on the "Bass Boost" on my ipod, and turn the bass all the way up on my bass nob... and sadly, it still doesn't hit quite the same. The guy that installed it told me that it's a different kind of sub and that while it may not fill the car with bass as my old sub, the bass that it produces is cleaner.
With all this power going into the sub, my lights flicker... something that never happened with my W6, even when I turned it all the way up. So now I have to invest more time and money doing the BIG three, might need to get a cap, or even get a better alternator... I already have an orbital battery. The guy also told me that the JL was more efficient, thus it needed less power compared to the Alpine. This I get, but I still don't feel that it explains the big difference in bass. Needless to say, I'm definitely missing my old sub. I've even thought about getting it re-foamed.
I would hate to return the Alpine, but luckily, it's an option.
What do you guys say? Would it be a step backwards re-foaming the W6 and putting it back in my car?
Here are the specs on both:
JL W6V1 10 inch
http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/8_12W6_BDS.pdf?1317790304
Alpine Type R 1043D
•Sensitivity: 83 dB
•RMS Power Range : 600 Watts
•Peak Power Handling: 1800 Watts
•Impedance: 4 Ohm
•Frequency response: 23-400 Hz
•Diameter: 10 Inch
•Shallow Mount: No
•Number of Voice Coils: Dual
•Suggested Sealed Box Volume: .75 Cubic ft.
•Suggested Ported Box Volume: 1.2 Cubic ft.
•Mounting Depth: 6 Inches
I'm not sure if it was installed incorrectly, but the W6 seemed to fill my car with base unlike the Alpine. In order to get it to hit about the same as the W6, I needed to set the "sub woofer"seeting to max, had to turn on the "Bass Boost" on my ipod, and turn the bass all the way up on my bass nob... and sadly, it still doesn't hit quite the same. The guy that installed it told me that it's a different kind of sub and that while it may not fill the car with bass as my old sub, the bass that it produces is cleaner.
With all this power going into the sub, my lights flicker... something that never happened with my W6, even when I turned it all the way up. So now I have to invest more time and money doing the BIG three, might need to get a cap, or even get a better alternator... I already have an orbital battery. The guy also told me that the JL was more efficient, thus it needed less power compared to the Alpine. This I get, but I still don't feel that it explains the big difference in bass. Needless to say, I'm definitely missing my old sub. I've even thought about getting it re-foamed.
I would hate to return the Alpine, but luckily, it's an option.
What do you guys say? Would it be a step backwards re-foaming the W6 and putting it back in my car?
Here are the specs on both:
JL W6V1 10 inch
http://mediacdn.jlaudio.com/media/mfg/9013/media_document/live_1/8_12W6_BDS.pdf?1317790304
Alpine Type R 1043D
•Sensitivity: 83 dB
•RMS Power Range : 600 Watts
•Peak Power Handling: 1800 Watts
•Impedance: 4 Ohm
•Frequency response: 23-400 Hz
•Diameter: 10 Inch
•Shallow Mount: No
•Number of Voice Coils: Dual
•Suggested Sealed Box Volume: .75 Cubic ft.
•Suggested Ported Box Volume: 1.2 Cubic ft.
•Mounting Depth: 6 Inches
