Think ill be able to pull off a hairtrick?

It'll give a little on the higher end but will play rap and decaf all day. Ive seen tons of people run their setup tuned at 28hz.
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Tuning low is fine. But you have to increase port area a lot to get what you want. Plus those woofer **** playing higher to begin with

Most rap isn't under 35hz. It's 40-60. Most music is 35 plus.

You won't give a little. You will give everything

 
It'll give a little on the higher end but will play rap and decaf all day. Ive seen tons of people run their setup tuned at 28hz.
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a lot of decaf isnt under 30hz either. Most decaf end up around 27 to 55hz. very rare do you see a 22-26hz drop and they arent that strong either so what you think you are tuning for, is a big mistake to give up the upper end. You just need it loud all around rather than being a whale note wonder. The lower you tune it, the less loud it'll get overall after a certain threshold. Because after a certain point, you are just fking up the sub setup entirely by just losing overall and not gaining anything worth a d@mn.

If you want 20-30hz stuff you need to play DJ Inclined stuff or got160s, DJ slow N throw or other artists that actually make low and powerful drops.

 
Most people tune in the low 30's.
25 is a bit low, but I did like my DDZ 18's box tuned to 27hz with a stupid amount of port area. Here's what that did in my Silverado:

How was the higher end stuff? Around lets say 50Hz? I wanna tune at 28Hz but keep getting told that its too low and will sound bad with most music. All i listen tok is rap and decaf

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Higher stuff was fine. I had 18 square inches of port area per cube, the box was enormous, the port was 4 feet long, and it theoretically should have been peaky. That build was better than the Warden's though.

It was surprisingly flat

 
How was the higher end stuff? Around lets say 50Hz? I wanna tune at 28Hz but keep getting told that its too low and will sound bad with most music. All i listen tok is rap and decaf
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You wanna go easy on the port area and get the port orienation perfect. A lot of port area causes you to drop in output below tuning fast. Go for moderate amounts, nothing past 15 sq inches per cube for slot and around 9 to 10 for aero.

30 to 32 should be a good point for you

FYI, my setup can hit 19hz pretty **** good and gets violent at 22hz and its tuned to 36.5hz. Theres other things you can do to bring the lows out bud.

 
My enclosure is tuned to 30Hz. Should play everything....but I will find out eventually. I'm liking it so far.

Played it a little bit lastnight....can make the hairs on the arm move.

Have someone nearby that has some freq disc/some other form of frequencies that will test out my x subs.

Btw, @JPatria you guys getting hit with that Tornado/Hurricane? Saw on the news/MSN.
 
How was the higher end stuff? Around lets say 50Hz? I wanna tune at 28Hz but keep getting told that its too low and will sound bad with most music. All i listen tok is rap and decaf
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Put it this way, I think he tore down that build and sold all the equipment within about a month. Trust and believe if it was amazing he'd have probably never switched up.

Anybody telling you where to tune who hasn't even modeled the woofer in a box design software is talking right out their arse. Your usable output bandwidth at any particular box volume and tuning really depends on the properties of the woofer you use.

Some SQ and home theater type drivers can tune low and play flat through a good bandwidth. Cherryman seems to know what he is doing so you might want to just ask him to do what's optimum for the woofer and let the chips fall where they may.

FYI when I tuned to 27 it would play down to 18 without unloading, tuning to 33 should play do to 25 easily enough. You really do need to build the box that the driver is designed to play well in.

 
Put it this way, I think he tore down that build and sold all the equipment within about a month. Trust and believe if it was amazing he'd have probably never switched up.
Anybody telling you where to tune who hasn't even modeled the woofer in a box design software is talking right out their arse. Your usable output bandwidth at any particular box volume and tuning really depends on the properties of the woofer you use.

Some SQ and home theater type drivers can tune low and play flat through a good bandwidth. Cherryman seems to know what he is doing so you might want to just ask him to do what's optimum for the woofer and let the chips fall where they may.

FYI when I tuned to 27 it would play down to 18 without unloading, tuning to 33 should play do to 25 easily enough. You really do need to build the box that the driver is designed to play well in.
It did hairtricks, but wasn't as loud as I wanted. That's why I tore it out, but it was several months.

You've been excessively on my nuts lately

 
It did hairtricks, but wasn't as loud as I wanted. That's why I tore it out, but it was several months.
You've been excessively on my nuts lately
I don't have hair, but when I did I used a blow dryer, it's a lot cheaper.

I told you, I'm horrified that you ever sold those Z's but almost let it slide because Warden is pretty beast. Downgrading from Neodymium is just unfathomable. I probably won't quit breaking your balls until you get back into neodymium or at least DD99, TSNS, LV6 etc. tier ceramic if you're that stuck on 4" coil.

DD-Z and LMS 5400 are the only other subs I'd like to own but never have.

Also, again, you chime in on a subject without the track record or experience from which to speak. You've built only a handful of boxes for a smaller handful of subs and NONE of them have been loud. Where do you come off telling this guy where to tune his subs which you've never used, probably never even seen in person, or never modelled in box design program? Quit throwing out bad information and you won't keep being corrected.

 
I don't have hair, but when I did I used a blow dryer, it's a lot cheaper.
I told you, I'm horrified that you ever sold those Z's but almost let it slide because Warden is pretty beast. Downgrading from Neodymium is just unfathomable. I probably won't quit breaking your balls until you get back into neodymium or at least DD99, TSNS, LV6 etc. tier ceramic if you're that stuck on 4" coil.

DD-Z and LMS 5400 are the only other subs I'd like to own but never have.

Also, again, you chime in on a subject without the track record or experience from which to speak. You've built only a handful of boxes for a smaller handful of subs and NONE of them have been loud. Where do you come off telling this guy where to tune his subs which you've never used, probably never even seen in person, or never modelled in box design program? Quit throwing out bad information and you won't keep being corrected.
Hairtricks are cool for demo's

The Z's weren't identical motors, which bothered me. It would have been almost impossible to find matching 99z motors without spending thousands.

If I get the job at the local fabrication shop, I could literally blueprint a 99z and make some for a fraction of the cost.

The subs I have now are great for the price. Eventually, I probably will go back to neo, yes.

I've built more than 10 boxes. Two setups have done impressive hairtricks. He wants hairtricks, and I told him what worked for me. That's not bad information, that's telling him what WORKED to do what he wanted. Is it going to be different for the subs he has, probably.

I'm not going to 4" coils unless I do a smaller cone area build with a higher ratio 4th order wall

 
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