The do's and dont''s of my first wall....it seems like something isn't right....

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Ok so I've been thinking about a 4th order. It seems like they have alot more potential than what they're showing me at the moment. Could I do a 4th order? Or do they require alot more space? I've never built one before. That's why I ask. Maybe it's because I haven't really been able to play them since I haven't been able to drive my car lol.....Oh and another update..I just did a transmission swap two weeks ago. That ***** started leaking and I ended up burning the 2/4 clutch out. So I picked up another transmission two days ago. So now I'm in the middle of doing another transmission swap. Third engine, fourth transmission.....I truly hate chrysler's with a passion lol.

If you don't have specs for those subs you definitely won't get 4th order bandpass to do anything worthwhile.

If you haven't finished sealing everything off yet you still have some room for improvement anyway.

IMO your box and port were both too small, perhaps the guys who told you to go small on both can chime in and tell you how you gain from here.

Lastly without an SPL meter you can't really see how loud it is or what your frequency response looks like so you'll only be guessing at what is going on anyway.

Did you at least get your transmission issue sorted out? New pictures?

 

[ferguson621]

Gotcha hispls....I was just curious. Yeah your right about all that lol.....I do plan on buying an spl meter though. I actually Just got my engine and transmission back in a few minutes ago. So now i'm hooking everything up and hopefully test drive it here in the next two hours.

 

[ferguson621]

The reason I went smaller on the port is because they had way to much port area previously. And a couple people, I don't remember who, said that 180 was good for the port area. So I went with that. I can make it bigger if I need to. What would you recommend for port area? I already know 300 square inches is way to much for them. So what should I try now?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

The reason I went smaller on the port is because they had way to much port area previously. And a couple people, I don't remember who, said that 180 was good for the port area. So I went with that. I can make it bigger if I need to. What would you recommend for port area? I already know 300 square inches is way to much for them. So what should I try now?

You should keep gaining by adding port area well beyond the point that we can actually fit in a car (like 3X your cone area). http://jahonen.kapsi.fi/Audio/Papers/AES_PortPaper.pdf

Of course if everything isn't perfectly sealed off or you have flexing panels in that box you really need to square that away first. You will also want to beg borrow or steal an SPL meter and/or RTA to figure out what your response is to see where your tuning is and if you missed your mark wildly there.

Sealing and making things solid still should be your most dramatic improvements. Can you take that port insert out easily? Have you tested without?

If you can take that port insert out easily I'll try to draw what I meant about adjusting tuning since you completely missed it before.

DO NOT go crazy and rampage on this box with a sawzall. There's no reason you can't make it loud and sound good from where you sit.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

looking alt better. still waiting for the meter number..

 

[ferguson621]

Ok I understand hispls.....I'm having a hard time sealing off the front from the back though. The only thing that I can think of to do would be to use expanding foam the fill in the gaps by the wing windows. But I really don't want to do that because that would be way to messy lol. And it would look shi tty. And for the port, it shouldn't be to hard to take apart lmao. And no I won't go on a rampage again. That was a very stressful month for me. But it's happened twice since then (***** swaps) and I didn't let it get the best of me. I managed to pull the motor and ***** in a day. And do the swap the next day in my driveway. By myself lol. So I was pretty proud to say the least. But anyway...How would you recommend I seal the sides off and not make it look like sh it? Oh and I did turn it up about halfway when I didn't have the port in the first time. And from what I can remember, It sounded loud. But like I said I only did it for a second cause I didn't want to screw anything up mechanically with the subs. And on a side note.....here's a box I just built the other day for two 12" DD9512's.....I would like your guys' opinions on it. Criticism is welcomed. And actually at the moment without much adjusting it gets pretty dam n loud. But I know they can get louder.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Ok I understand hispls.....I'm having a hard time sealing off the front from the back though. The only thing that I can think of to do would be to use expanding foam the fill in the gaps by the wing windows. But I really don't want to do that because that would be way to messy lol. And it would look shi tty. And for the port, it shouldn't be to hard to take apart lmao. And no I won't go on a rampage again. That was a very stressful month for me. But it's happened twice since then (***** swaps) and I didn't let it get the best of me. I managed to pull the motor and ***** in a day. And do the swap the next day in my driveway. By myself lol. So I was pretty proud to say the least. But anyway...How would you recommend I seal the sides off and not make it look like sh it? Oh and I did turn it up about halfway when I didn't have the port in the first time. And from what I can remember, It sounded loud. But like I said I only did it for a second cause I didn't want to screw anything up mechanically with the subs. And on a side note.....here's a box I just built the other day for two 12" DD9512's.....I would like your guys' opinions on it. Criticism is welcomed. And actually at the moment without much adjusting it gets pretty dam n loud. But I know they can get louder.

What so hard? I use weathstripping.

 

[YukonXL04]

Your gonna have to fiberglass from the c pillar to the box to seal it off. Way to big of a gap for just foam.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Your gonna have to fiberglass from the c pillar to the box to seal it off. Way to big of a gap for just foam.

Ive always cut "trim pices" screwed and glued the to the box and used weather seal between the wood and roof.

 

[los33 10+ year member]

Ive always cut "trim pices" screwed and glued the to the box and used weather seal between the wood and roof.

What are pices
Sent from my N9560 using Tapatalk

 

[Hertz Mafia]

Ive always cut "trim pices" screwed and glued the to the box and used weather seal between the wood and roof.

U don't even have a wall. Only video u ever showed was 4 rd 15s in a box not a sealed off wall and it was someone else video you were taking credit for. U never sealed off anything in your life

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

U don't even have a wall. Only video u ever showed was 4 rd 15s in a box not a sealed off wall and it was someone else video you were taking credit for. U never sealed off anything in your life

You better worry about selling that equipment before you lose everything.

Your wife crushed you when she told you sell it huh?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Ok I understand hispls.....I'm having a hard time sealing off the front from the back though. The only thing that I can think of to do would be to use expanding foam the fill in the gaps by the wing windows. But I really don't want to do that because that would be way to messy lol. And it would look shi tty. And for the port, it shouldn't be to hard to take apart lmao. And no I won't go on a rampage again. That was a very stressful month for me. But it's happened twice since then (***** swaps) and I didn't let it get the best of me. I managed to pull the motor and ***** in a day. And do the swap the next day in my driveway. By myself lol. So I was pretty proud to say the least. But anyway...How would you recommend I seal the sides off and not make it look like sh it? Oh and I did turn it up about halfway when I didn't have the port in the first time. And from what I can remember, It sounded loud. But like I said I only did it for a second cause I didn't want to screw anything up mechanically with the subs. And on a side note.....here's a box I just built the other day for two 12" DD9512's.....I would like your guys' opinions on it. Criticism is welcomed. And actually at the moment without much adjusting it gets pretty dam n loud. But I know they can get louder.

Play some test tones (low volume) from 20hz up to 60 and make a mental note of where it sounds louder and loudest and below what point output drops off dramatically. At the loudest point the cones should be moving less than at 5hz above or below that point.

You really really need to seal it off airtight and solid, but you could get by with just cutting some pieces of 3/4 to fill between the edges of the box and the edge of the car. You can use a flexible straight edge to trace the shape of the side of the vehicle or take a piece of cardboard and a razor knife and trim until it is the exact right shape (this will take many test, mark, cuts). Mount those pieces solid to fill the big voids and use pipe insulation along the edge over the wood smushing tight into the side of the vehicle. Home depot has some nice squishy pipe insulation (not the pool noodle stuff but feels quite a bit softer) that works a treat at sealing tighter spots.

If you posted picture to a box, link is broken and I can't see the picture. You really ought to be doing auto repair for money.

2x4 added to the back/inside of the baffle like so, so that each one added gives you 1.5" port depth. Once you like tuning you can add a layer of MDF of ply over the inside port edge to smooth it off and add a roundover or 45 degree the entrances.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Play some test tones (low volume) from 20hz up to 60 and make a mental note of where it sounds louder and loudest and below what point output drops off dramatically. At the loudest point the cones should be moving less than at 5hz above or below that point.
You really really need to seal it off airtight and solid, but you could get by with just cutting some pieces of 3/4 to fill between the edges of the box and the edge of the car. You can use a flexible straight edge to trace the shape of the side of the vehicle or take a piece of cardboard and a razor knife and trim until it is the exact right shape (this will take many test, mark, cuts). Mount those pieces solid to fill the big voids and use pipe insulation along the edge over the wood smushing tight into the side of the vehicle. Home depot has some nice squishy pipe insulation (not the pool noodle stuff but feels quite a bit softer) that works a treat at sealing tighter spots.

If you posted picture to a box, link is broken and I can't see the picture. You really ought to be doing auto repair for money.

2x4 added to the back/inside of the baffle like so, so that each one added gives you 1.5" port depth. Once you like tuning you can add a layer of MDF of ply over the inside port edge to smooth it off and add a roundover or 45 degree the entrances.

Cutting the trim pieces like hispl suggested is how we used to do it. Where it goes against something hard like the door panels the pillar or the windows use the weatherstripping seal I linked earlier. Cut it a little large you can always trim it it should fit very tight to where you have to tap it in place what a small hammer on the top of the box again cut it a little bit where it makes a seal against the headliner. After that you can cut your farmer glass then glass it all to make it look like one piece. On the backside you can use Liquid Nails to seal all the cracks. Best thing to do is play it and see where it's flexing then brace it and then see where it's leaking then brace it.

It's a good idea to double the trim pieces so they're really solid.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Frost King E/O 1-1/4 in. x 7/16 in. x 10 ft. White High-Density Rubber Foam Weatherstrip Tape-R516WH - The Home Depot