The do's and dont''s of my first wall....it seems like something isn't right....

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Gotcha hertz mafia! Thank you for pointing that out! I'll add a few more screws to that piece to pull them together. And hispls i dont plan on rushing lol....I'm taking my time for sure! Especially since I'm in the middle of pulling my motor and transmission as i type this. So I'm bouncing back and forth between the two so i don't overthink anything on the wall....and what exactly do you mean flare the end of the port? I cant picture it in my head lol. Im more of a visual person.

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/606610-c-pilllar-wall-jeep-2.html

Like I did with this port. Shrunk it a little and flared the edges. Shrinking was not optimum to tune lower but you really are rolling the dice crowding the back opening of a port to the back wall. I've done better shrinking port than crowding it in past testing.

Biggest regrets of that build was too little port area and too much cone are for the space.

 

[ferguson621]

Ok gotcha....so pretty much just round it off with a huge curve?

 

[ferguson621]

What is the -4.75 for the physical port length? Why is it negative? Did i input something wrong?

 

[los33 10+ year member]

What is the -4.75 for the physical port length? Why is it negative? Did i input something wrong?

Did you put in the correct box depth?

Sent from my Z981 using Tapatalk

 

[Hertz Mafia]

What is the -4.75 for the physical port length? Why is it negative? Did i input something wrong?

Idk but your only at 9cubes net with 26" port per foot tuned to 42hz... that isn't going to work lol

 

[ferguson621]

Lol hertz mafia why won't that work? I say that in a polite way. What about this?

 

[Hertz Mafia]

Lol hertz mafia why won't that work? I say that in a polite way. What about this?

9 cubes is enough for 1 18" woofer... most people. Shoot for 10-16cubes per port and your at 26"

That new one is better but that's like min space for two 18s

 

[ferguson621]

And to prove i wasn't beating around the bush about building boxes here's some pictures

 

[ferguson621]

Ah ok.....but i thought you go by gross instead of net? I didnt realize my port area was only 180.....definitely going to make it bigger, cause i know 180 is way to small for three 18's

 

[Hertz Mafia]

Ah ok.....but i thought you go by gross instead of net? I didnt realize my port area was only 180.....definitely going to make it bigger, cause i know 180 is way to small for three 18's

It's Goes by the enclosure not the woofers. I've had four 18s in 24cubes with 170" port and it was nice.

 

[ferguson621]

Oh dsmn ok....well i suppose I'll try 180 square inches first and see how they do once i get to that part

 

[Buick_66]

When I look at the inside of your box a couple things pop out, like the cavern below your 2 bottom subs. Seems like a trap, and is it fully sealed? Looks like there's a hole down there on drivers side? (Maybe add fill in cavern assuming its sealed tight) And where the back panel(s) are supposed to attach, there are going to be gaps all over, as none of the panels you are planning to join together appear square...and to add 45's is to assume you have 90 degree corners...this I question as well, meaning if the 45's don't sit tight they are just going to cause more noise and not do their job...because there's even more gaps...and the port...like the correct advise was given, but your implementation of the advise is out of whack. You've attached 2x4's (THIS IS NOT YOUR PORT) - with 2x4s in place as 'something to attach to' make a port out of panels place top panel, and bottom, then put in sides (so sides hold top and bottom) so 2 pieces the exact same dimensions, then the other 2...all same depth. This creates a 'port' instead of a big hole...glue and screw and test. Add second layer just as you did the first to make port smaller if need be...you will likely have to make smaller...

Or

As mentioned in my first post...start again.

You can 'prove us all wrong' by continuing on this path, but the more you post, the more you are proving us right.

Should just call this post 'HOW NOT TO BUILD A WALL'

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Kiss

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

Ok gotcha....so pretty much just round it off with a huge curve?

Think flared port, they virtually always gain, flaring out port openings looks nice and helps performance.

What is the -4.75 for the physical port length? Why is it negative? Did i input something wrong?

What you're doing wrong is worrying about the port before your box is tight and solid.

 

[ferguson621]

Im just trying to get an idea of where to start for the port....im going to seal it off completely before i do anything else. I told you im not going to rush. So I'm sticking to that.....i haven't worked on it the past two days.....i took a break because I'm doing my transmission swap right now....about to drop the motor and ****** in here shortly....and yes I'm going to fill in the gap below the bottom two subs....i just havent got to that yet, and I'm also going to redo the 45's.....there's no reason why this won't work....not every design has to be square pieces to make it come together.....hence why we have angles buick_66....and i know the 2x4's aren't my port, how stupid do you think i am? I did that because the baffle is 3 inches thick and i wanted more than 3 inches of surface area for the port walls to be screwed to so it's more solid. And i knew i would have to shrink it regardless. I'm confident I can do it. You may think its sh1t compared to your build but not everyone produces identical results. And i will prove you wrong. How is my implementation of the advise given out of whack? Because i may not understand something at first?