The Chase for 160+dB Demos // Team Alphard Audio USA

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

you mean the frame is less conductive? Ideally you want everything grounded together simply because in a dc + system the ground is the current carrying conductor initially. I've seen curret try to travel through the ****** and damage the ******.. lol.

I never pay much attention but if the frame can handle the current it will work.

 

[ObTechAudio]

You know, I haven't posted here in several months but I felt the need to post on this topic.
Running that many grounds to the frame only is pretty much pointless, as you've relied on the steel frame to carry all the current from the alternators and not copper wiring, which is far more conductive.

Did you plan on doing any runs direct from the alternator to the batteries for the ground side? All I see is positives.

But realistically that many positives is complete overkill as well for the amount of alternators you have.

I appreciate your thoughts. You may have missed the previous posts showing the 12 grounds up front for the alternators. There are 3- and 3+ for each alt. In total, there are 24 grounds and 12 positives. I'll post a pic showing you what I mean.

Is it overkill? Sure. I can totally live with that on a build like this. Pointless? Nah. I'd literally shoot myself if I built something like this and cut corners on electrical.

 

---------- Post added at 12:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:18 AM ----------

 

you mean the frame is less conductive? Ideally you want everything grounded together simply because in a dc + system the ground is the current carrying conductor initially. I've seen curret try to travel through the ****** and damage the ******.. lol.I never pay much attention but if the frame can handle the current it will work.

I think we'll be a-ok

 

[ObTechAudio]

Here's a pic of all of our ground. 12 up front for alts and 12 in the back for batt bank.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Yea. I think so. If not you will find out quick.. what are the specifics on the box?

 

[ObTechAudio]

Yea. I think so. If not you will find out quick.. what are the specifics on the box?

tick over 24 cubes -- 330ish sq.in. of port -- tuned to 30hz

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

tick over 24 cubes -- 330ish sq.in. of port -- tuned to 30hz

Im interested to see some fr plots. Can't find any solid parameters on the woofers. Id imagine the cabin is still larger than the box in this case.. i cant wait to see it in action!

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

You know, I haven't posted here in several months but I felt the need to post on this topic.
Running that many grounds to the frame only is pretty much pointless, as you've relied on the steel frame to carry all the current from the alternators and not copper wiring, which is far more conductive.

Did you plan on doing any runs direct from the alternator to the batteries for the ground side? All I see is positives.

But realistically that many positives is complete overkill as well for the amount of alternators you have.

I was thinking the same thing. I'm doing dedicated ground runs to the back, as well as grounding mine to the frame.

Would've at least done three dedicated ground runs with that many positives

 

[ObTechAudio]

I was thinking the same thing. I'm doing dedicated ground runs to the back, as well as grounding mine to the frame.

Would've at least done three dedicated ground runs with that many positives

No need to do runs to the back. Everything is complete through the frame, which will be the only limiting factor in the electrical.

 

[adulbrich 5,000+ posts]

No need to do runs to the back. Everything is complete through the frame, which will be the only limiting factor in the electrical.

Ok, gotcha. Might not be a big deal

 

[Nsv3tb]

Here are specs of db4 15s

 

[tommyk90 5,000+ posts]

I appreciate your thoughts. You may have missed the previous posts showing the 12 grounds up front for the alternators. There are 3- and 3+ for each alt. In total, there are 24 grounds and 12 positives. I'll post a pic showing you what I mean.
Is it overkill? Sure. I can totally live with that on a build like this. Pointless? Nah. I'd literally shoot myself if I built something like this and cut corners on electrical.

 

---------- Post added at 12:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:18 AM ----------

 

I think we'll be a-ok

I meant solid runs of wire from the alts to the rear. Not anything through the frame.

You're trying to pass 1000+ amps through a frame rail. Copper is 10x more conductive than carbon steel. Realistically you would need 10x more surface area of steel than copper.

Figure that a run of 1/0 is good for 300 amps at that distance. You need at least 4 runs of 1/0 copper wire to carry the amperage you have on tap. That means you need at least 40 runs of steel to do a comparable job. FORTY. Picture 40 runs of 1/0 together and you get the picture.

Steel is not good for conductivity.

Just my opinion, but you should do solid runs of wire from front to back.

Take a look at any big SPL build and you'll see dedicated runs of negative wire, especially on vehicles with multiple alternators.

Not trying to knock your build because it's impressive, but I'd hate for you to have voltage problems because you overkilled on positive runs without doing any negative runs.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

Here are specs of db4 15s

Just curious have those parameters been verified? I can't seem to get anything to model up without getting errors

 

[germanyt 10+ year member]

Just my opinion but if you put a multimeter on the front and rear od the frame rail and get just a tenth or so ohms of resistance Id think that grounding alts/amps/batteries to the frame is perfectly fine.

 

[Slo_Ride 5,000+ posts]

Just curious have those parameters been verified? I can't seem to get anything to model up without getting errors

That's because you don't know what you're doing.

 

[Papermaker85 5,000+ posts]

That's because you don't know what you're doing.

You know what you're right