Taramps

I turn the Gaines all the way down. Turn the stereo up to about 90%, and then slowly turn it up until Im satisfied or I hear distortion. Which there is no distortion in this case. Very clean. Im just wondering about the converter gain because Ive never had to tap off of a factory amp with a converter. I always had rca jacks on my stereos back in the day.
 
I turn the Gaines all the way down. Turn the stereo up to about 90%, and then slowly turn it up until Im satisfied or I hear distortion. Which there is no distortion in this case. Very clean. Im just wondering about the converter gain because Ive never had to tap off of a factory amp with a converter. I always had rca jacks on my stereos back in the day.

Were you running the Orion off the converter?
 
These old Orions put a huge strain on the electrical system. I just figured for at least 500 more watts and better efficiency I couldnt go wrong. I always figured thatv1 watt is 1 watt regardless of what amp its coming out of. Maybe the orions 700ish watts at 1ohm is actually better than the Taramps 1200 watts? IDK
 
These old Orions put a huge strain on the electrical system. I just figured for at least 500 more watts and better efficiency I couldnt go wrong. I always figured thatv1 watt is 1 watt regardless of what amp its coming out of. Maybe the orions 700ish watts at 1ohm is actually better than the Taramps 1200 watts? IDK

I highly doubt that, but who knows. I'm running an MD3000 on an American Bass HD15. The gain is about 60%. My alternator is only a 95 amp (long story), it's an old car, 1965. Taramps are solid.
 
Thats what I have heard. I was actually considering getting another one and running one on each sub at 2 ohms to see if its more stable.
 
High to low converter from a factory amp...mmmmm...anyone else think it may be a shittay signal? Also, that amp is probably solid for one of those subs after box rise seeing as they ask for 1200 rms. Don’t add another 1200...just get a 3000
 
High to low converter from a factory amp...mmmmm...anyone else think it may be a shittay signal? Also, that amp is probably solid for one of those subs after box rise seeing as they ask for 1200 rms. Don’t add another 1200...just get a 3000

Actually, the Taramps Smart3 is your best option.
 
Maybe Ill give it a try if I cant figure out what the issue is.
its the factory amp into line output convertor. Factory amps always mess up the signal with their built in EQ curves and crossovers. You arent getting a flat signal. The orion amp handles clipping better than taramps which is why you think it performs better. Taramps should perform way better with a proper full range flat signal.

read through this thread. same issue as yours pretty much and pretty much how he solved it and the results.

 
D
its the factory amp into line output convertor. Factory amps always mess up the signal with their built in EQ curves and crossovers. You arent getting a flat signal. The orion amp handles clipping better than taramps which is why you think it performs better. Taramps should perform way better with a proper full range flat signal.

read through this thread. same issue as yours pretty much and pretty much how he solved it and the results.

Heres what I have. Im running the amp at full range with my old school PPI crossover set at 60 hz. This is in a 2018 Chrysler which means everything is set through the canbus signal. Does anyone know how to Sum the canbus signal to make the amp full range and eliminate the built in crossover?
 
D

Heres what I have. Im running the amp at full range with my old school PPI crossover set at 60 hz. This is in a 2018 Chrysler which means everything is set through the canbus signal. Does anyone know how to Sum the canbus signal to make the amp full range and eliminate the built in crossover?

i'm assuming its a chrysler 300?
 
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