just to add on to this whole conversation.
I have been playing around with t line variants with subwoofers that would fail horribly in a regular t line. It takes a little more work on the design aspect but if you listen to no one type of music I think the t line and 1/4 wave horn are in the top 3 for musicality and when designed correctly play flat as well. I'm running a 1/8th wave horn in my durango and it will reach down to the low 20's with out much problems at all. It does sort of lack on the higher notes like 65 and up so I need to play my mids lower than I would like to. I will be swapping out for a longer horn and a tapered line here soon to see if I can fix that problem.
the biggest problem with these boxes is the huge space they take up compared to even a ported enclosure, my horn is still bigger than a 4th order for the same subwoofers. The biggest misconception with t lines is that your sub will lose half of it's power rating. It's not that simple, many drivers will be fine with rated rms or more. I know my shocker sigs were taking a 5k amp each in a box designed to unload the cone, the stronger the motor the more chance it has to stay where it is supposed to be. The motor doesn't just push the coil out of the gap, it will push, pull, hold, center, ect ect. A lot of high strength motor subs do better in Infinite baffle and t lines because of this. I have always had a problem getting the correct speed and punch out of a ported enclosure compared to a horn or t-line. I always recommend one of the 2 when I hear the person listens to rock or metal. You would never tell how much faster and punchier your sub can be just from swapping enclosures. With my ported enclosure I had to use my time alignment, with this horn it is all in line with the mids.