System upgrade

Jared_109

Junior Member
Hi all, I’ve got a 2011 Sierra extended cab that I’m wanting to install a new system into. I’m ordering either a Pioneer AVH-491BHS or a AVH-2300NEX (I think those are the right names?). Looking for suggestions on subs and a box to go under the back seat. I know I don’t have a lot of room to work with but I was told they make back seat “lift kits” for certain applications. Been looking at Sundowns and Fi Audio, but open to anything. I want something that thumps. Already have the wiring to do the Big Three on the truck as well. Looking for 10’s over 8’s and 12’s. Mostly because 12’a need a deeper mounting depth and I’ve never really been big into 8’s. Door speakers will be coming as well, but trying to take it one step at a time and not break the bank all at once, but if you want to throw suggestions out for those as well, I’ll gladly take them. Also any pictures of builds that have been done are most certainly welcome to give me a better idea. I’ve always done big ported boxes before so the under the seat look will be something totally different for me. A couple I’ve looked at are the SD3’s and SA series from Sundown, but I’m not sure they’ll have the thump I’m looking for. Could be wrong though:confused:

Saw this sticky after I posted so figured I’d add it below. Sorry for being “that guy”

Number of subs preferred: 2

Size preferred (if configuration allows): 10

Budget: None set

Power to be used (which amp(s), include which resistance): 1500-2500, not sure yet? 1-2ohm

Space available (take measurements, do not guess): will measure later. Not home atm. Extended cab Sierra

Goals: Uhh thump? No competitions, but add some life to my sound system for sure, and have better bass than most people in this town who run low-end garbage.

Listening habits: little bit of everything. Rap, rock, country. Depends on the mood

Preferred brands/subs/whatever: Read a lot of good about Sundown but open to suggestions

 
I’m not real sure on my budget. Per sub I’m thinking less than $400 each? Maybe? I mean if it can be accomplished for $200-$300 each then by all means. But I’m not looking to spend $1,000 per sub either because I still need to purchase an amp that’s matches those subs. I don’t want to cheap out either though, so if I have to save up for something good then I suppose I can or buy them one at a time. I understand you have to pay to play

 
Any amp over 1000 rms you will want to uograde the electrical system. Big 3 wires and upgraded main battery at the minimum. Subs with over 1krms power handling need serious upgrades for powerful amps to power them properly. What is your total budget for everything?

 
Any amp over 1000 rms you will want to uograde the electrical system. Big 3 wires and upgraded main battery at the minimum. Subs with over 1krms power handling need serious upgrades for powerful amps to power them properly. What is your total budget for everything?
Probably wasn’t good for it, but I pushed an 1800 watt RMS MA Audio HK2000D on aBig Three with everything else stock on an older vehicle. Still have that amp actually and can reuse it to cut down on the budget some if need be, it’s in my brothers vehicle currently though. As for budget are we including all of the wiring, batteries, subs, amp, box, and everything i would possibly need? Or just subs, amp, and box?

 
you can run big amps on stock electrical, you'll just never see anything past what your stock electrical will give you power wise. Your 2000-10,000 watt amp will at most only put out 600-1000 constantly/daily(if you set your gains based on battery voltage) or whatever your stock electrical can handle.

If turned it up past what your voltages can handle, your amps still wont output full power due to voltage along with your amps will go into protect or even worse blow because it wont take long to completely drain out your battery.

 
Probably wasn’t good for it, but I pushed an 1800 watt RMS MA Audio HK2000D on aBig Three with everything else stock on an older vehicle. Still have that amp actually and can reuse it to cut down on the budget some if need be, it’s in my brothers vehicle currently though. As for budget are we including all of the wiring, batteries, subs, amp, box, and everything i would possibly need? Or just subs, amp, and box?

Sub/s, box, amp, wiring, extra battery, head unit, front stage speakers and amplification and wiring for those as well- All this stuff adds up quickly.

That MA amp is 1500w rms at 1 ohm 14.4v, so it would be a good idea to do a big 3 and upgrade the main battery to an AGM if you plan on using it. Using that amp (or similar powered amp) on stock electrical is just asking for trouble. Your voltage will drop too low and that leads to blown equipment.

 
Sub/s, box, amp, wiring, extra battery, head unit, front stage speakers and amplification and wiring for those as well- All this stuff adds up quickly.

That MA amp is 1500w rms at 1 ohm 14.4v, so it would be a good idea to do a big 3 and upgrade the main battery to an AGM if you plan on using it. Using that amp (or similar powered amp) on stock electrical is just asking for trouble. Your voltage will drop too low and that leads to blown equipment.
So for the sake of saying I used a 1500wrms amp, the big three and upgraded battery should be okay until I can get an HO alternator?and would said 1500wrms even be enough for an SD3 or SA? I know Sundown underrates their products and I worry about not pushing enough power to them

 
So for the sake of saying I used a 1500wrms amp, the big three and upgraded battery should be okay until I can get an HO alternator?and would said 1500wrms even be enough for an SD3 or SA? I know Sundown underrates their products and I worry about not pushing enough power to them
Yea 1500rms is as much as I would run without a HO alt. Truck alt's are usually 140-180a so you should be good but still do big 3 and battery upgrades. That amp would be fine on SA's or similar. SA's are good subs, I would personally use something else because I like to be different.

 
Yea 1500rms is as much as I would run without a HO alt. Truck alt's are usually 140-180a so you should be good but still do big 3 and battery upgrades. That amp would be fine on SA's or similar. SA's are good subs, I would personally use something else because I like to be different.
Well I’m open to suggestions if you know of something different. Keeping in mind whatever I go with will have to be built in a box with the idea of fitting under the rear seat due to being a truck and wanting to keep that seat. But not many people around my town even know what Sundown’s are. Local shop pushes JL’s to the max and that’s about it from them. As far as amplifiers go, if I were to go with a different amp than the MA, what would you suggest? The Sundown SAE-1500D appears to be a perfect fit, but it’s a bit pricey compared to say a HiFonics Brutus. Is the HiFonics really that much worse that it’s $200 less? I also want to say thank you for all the help so far, went from one question to several off the wall questions and you continue to be helpful

 
All newer Hifonics amps are trash some of their old ones were decent to pretty good. In my opinion you should run the MA audio amp you have for now to save money and then if you feel you need to upgrade later you can I've only played with a few of the MA audio amps but they seemed okay. over the past month or two there have been several threads about builds in trucks doing the exact same thing that you're wanting to do most of the guys raised at the rear seat by an inch or two to gain the extra room they needed actually I think almost all of them went with Sundown products which is not a bad thing I definitely love me some sundown you could probably dig up some of the truck build threads that I mentioned above with enough searching to get some ideas. Another thing to consider is if you can't fit tens a lot of people use 8 under the rear seats that 8-inch woofers nowadays are ridiculously loud compared to back in the day

 
All newer Hifonics amps are trash some of their old ones were decent to pretty good. In my opinion you should run the MA audio amp you have for now to save money and then if you feel you need to upgrade later you can I've only played with a few of the MA audio amps but they seemed okay. over the past month or two there have been several threads about builds in trucks doing the exact same thing that you're wanting to do most of the guys raised at the rear seat by an inch or two to gain the extra room they needed actually I think almost all of them went with Sundown products which is not a bad thing I definitely love me some sundown you could probably dig up some of the truck build threads that I mentioned above with enough searching to get some ideas. Another thing to consider is if you can't fit tens a lot of people use 8 under the rear seats that 8-inch woofers nowadays are ridiculously loud compared to back in the day
Here’s a question, if the sub itself calls for a 6.5” mounting depth, and let’s say a pre-built box says it has a 6.5” mounting depth, does that mean the sub will fit perfectly or would I need a 6.75” or even 7” mounting depth for it to work? I’ve never had to get this technical with space requirements before as I usually have the local shop build my boxes for me but I’d like to try and get as much of this install done without getting ripped off by them as possible

 
This could be an ultra low cost/high value build on up to really great components.

Budget/value build:

Soundstream tn4.900 $140

Soundstream tn1.1200 $170

Foxbox vented 2-10's $210

2, SA e-10's $260

Amp kit and big three - $170

Front components- $200

Rear fill, if wanted - $100

All my trucks keep up power wise with amps similar in size. Mine are 180 and 220 amp. You can always upgrade batteries later if needed.

From here you can "upgrade" whatever you see fit. Want more bass get subs that can handle more power, build a custom box and get a bigger amp. Etc....

 
Different manufacturers can sometimes list their specs differently or fudge things a little one way or the other so you would probably have to call them to find out if it's an exact measurement or what it exactly means but most likely that would mean that the magnet would be setting against the back of the box which is not a good thing but the Box manufacturer could be stating that it will clear six and a half inch speakers hard to say without actually reading the specs again I would probably call them or try to catch a another form member who has experience with the products you have in mind normally nobody on this form will recommend a prefab box because pretty much all of them are built generically and will rob you of output plus they are tuned way too high but there are a few rare exceptions in some of the threads I mentioned in my previous post a few guys had good luck with a specific type of truck box I believe it was for Dodge Rams but most likely they make a box for Chevys to but I don't have any experience with any of those boxes again most members on here including myself will highly recommend that you build your own box

 
Here’s a question, if the sub itself calls for a 6.5” mounting depth, and let’s say a pre-built box says it has a 6.5” mounting depth, does that mean the sub will fit perfectly or would I need a 6.75” or even 7” mounting depth for it to work? I’ve never had to get this technical with space requirements before as I usually have the local shop build my boxes for me but I’d like to try and get as much of this install done without getting ripped off by them as possible
The guy who just posted right above me Beentown is one of the guys from the other threads I was talking about he can get you pointed in the right direction for sure

 
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Jared_109

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