System not hitting as hard as it should?

his problem is low output voltage in the rca wires.

thats why it sounds ok / good to him when bass boost is up all the way and gain up.

a line driver will help fix this issue btw

as I stated in above posts of myself before

when I said that previously

in a diffrent post.

ok

 
ok so you've already asked about this before and you haven't attempted to fix it? also. i've seen nobody tell you what the problem is with the box. just that "it's the box". why does everybody say it's the box? you gave the stats, so,........ too big, too small, the port is wrong,..what? there still is NO answer. you say it sounds good if you turn the boost up and the bass on the hu up. so why is this the case if the box is no good? thegdog said that your amp is bigger than his is, and NO IT'S NOT. your amp is 350 @4ohms. 500 @2 ohms. his amp is pushing 600. yours is pushing 350watts. that sub is rated at 500rms, you can run 6-700 watts to it. according to the subwoofer enclosure calclator, you're numbers are good. cept you're box is 1.95 cu. 32 hertz not 34 like you thought. this is what alpine calls for in cube size. your other speakers sould be good unless you're turnng the bass all the way up on the hu. +2 or 3 if fine.
because look at the old thread.. It ended and no one responded enough. Got to a point where I really couldn't find anything and would have had to take it to an audio installer. But other than that man, great info. Thanks for backin me up there, and dam.. Never knew my amp was only pushin 350:/ is it possible I have it wired differently? Because like I said I tried looking at the wiring options sticky but the pictures are all expired..Thanks again man.

get a line driver.turn up the voltage on the rca that is feeding your amp.

keep the headunit bass at normal levels to not play bass thru your normal car speakers.

you want loud sub bass from your sub. not your car speakers.

line driver

some crossovers also have a line driver built in.

then it would allow you to fine tune the frequencys being sent to the amp.
That sounds like a great idea, I'll look into it for sure. Thanks man.

 
his problem is low output voltage in the rca wires.thats why it sounds ok / good to him when bass boost is up all the way and gain up.
I think he is getting clipping when he turns it up that high since the amp only does 350rms and the box is off

OP can you post a pic of you box? or at least give detailed specs of it?

From what I can tell you still have the 2" port that is only 2.75" long? is that correct?

From what you say the box is 1.95cubes internal before the sub/port. The sub is ~.1 so you at 1.85cubes

You would be tuned at ~35hz but your port is way to small. If your just using pvc then you need 3x 3"ports that will each have to be ~24" long. If you stick then into the box taking up displacement then they will need to be longer as the box will be smaller

 
use a multimeter to confirm the resistance on your subs

use a multimeter to check the gain on your amp

if neither of those helps, make sure you don't have any crossover features set wrong

 
oh, this isn't the case on all amps but I have some like this

In addition to the gain knob, is there an input sensitivity button? My amps have a button that switches between 100mV-2V and 2V-8V. If you have the gain knob on full in 2V-8V mode it has the same total sensitivity as it would at minimum gain on the 100mV-2V mode.

 
I think he is getting clipping when he turns it up that high since the amp only does 350rms and the box is off

OP can you post a pic of you box? or at least give detailed specs of it?

From what I can tell you still have the 2" port that is only 2.75" long? is that correct?

From what you say the box is 1.95cubes internal before the sub/port. The sub is ~.1 so you at 1.85cubes

You would be tuned at ~35hz but your port is way to small. If your just using pvc then you need 3x 3"ports that will each have to be ~24" long. If you stick then into the box taking up displacement then they will need to be longer as the box will be smaller
Yes everything you said is correct about the box.. did the calculations with winisd and thats what it told me to use. I'll try to figure how to put a couple pics. up. and the detailed specs are in the other thread i posted a link for. Ill find it.
And thanks everyone for the help. This is great.

View attachment 26521173View attachment 26521174View attachment 26521175 - Woops, didnt know it was that easy. lol

EDIT: Box is 11.5x16.5x24in tuned to 34hz With a port hole 2in diameter and 2.75in long

 
You should have gone with a minimum of a 4" Aeroport. The Type R generally likes a larger enclosure, so I'd try to build it from 2-2.5cuft tuned to 32Hz. Make sure to account for sub and port displacement in your design.

 
You should have gone with a minimum of a 4" Aeroport. The Type R generally likes a larger enclosure, so I'd try to build it from 2-2.5cuft tuned to 32Hz. Make sure to account for sub and port displacement in your design.
Building another box is sort of out of the question right now, recently moved and do not have space/ resources anymore. Changing the port hole is still a possibility though. Not to mention look at the pics I just posted, 2.2-2.5 would really take up my entire trunk. the box is big enough as is..

 
With a quick google search, as anyting, 100's of results came up about line drivers. Whats a good line driver? can someone please explain the difference in 2 channels or 8 volts vs 13 volts. and which would be best for my application? How come some are $30 and some are $200? Just let me know what to look for.

 
It's not just the box. 350 watts in a sealed box should give somewhat decent output. The problem is you're not actually getting the power to your subs.

 
It's not just the box. 350 watts in a sealed box should give somewhat decent output. The problem is you're not actually getting the power to your subs.
So could you explain what I may be doing wrong to not get the power to the subs?? and the box is ported.. not sealed. btw.

 
Actually with all things to aside.. I'm sure all things pointed out here in the responses hold their own merit.. and need to be addressed one by one..

I can tell you one thing about your install from those pictures the ultimate problem above all else is "Install"

Install is 90% component selection is only 10%

That is a hatch right? You are pointing directly backwards..

You need to have a box that angles towards the hatch.. not firing strait up ... but angled.. the pass output in a hatch back because of the design is much greater like this.. and the shape of the vehicle and the wave reflection/refraction..

You will hear and get much better bass response I guarantee..

 
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