System is out :( Source?

[BlibbaBlob]

I've been running an NVX 12" 350wrms on a Rockville db11 350wrms @ 2 ohms w/bass remote, LOC and stock HU and after 2 years it finally went out.

First I noticed the light on my bass remote was out and there was no sound from the system. After a few minutes, it kicks on, plays for a little while and then cuts out again. Sounds like a possible short?

This time I notice the fuse is blown. I pull the fuse out, but like an idiot, tried to replace it without disconnecting the battery 😅 the fuse made contact with the amp and there was a small puff of smoke so I quickly yanked the fuse back out.

I disconnect the battery and install a new fuse...it blows as soon as I start the car. I check the wiring to my LOC and noticed I had a few wires with electrical tape, so I replaced them with shrink tube and replaced the fuse again.

Now the amp powers on

The bass remote doesn't power up

There is no signal from the sub

Could it be a short somewhere blew the amp fuse, bass remote and sub?

One thing that may be worth mentioning, my amp came with a Dyno test rating of 425wrms @ 2ohms while my sub is rated 350wrms @ 2ohms. Granted my sub probably wasn't getting 425w regularly, but maybe the additional power might've been a factor?

Thanks for any help! I think I have some pics and videos from last year I can post later 😋

 

[hispls]

If the fuse to your amp opens when you connect the power there is something terribly wrong happening. The power cable may be shorting to ground somewhere , there is an internal fault in your amp, or you have reversed the +12 and ground wires going into your amp.

Fuses are meant to keep you from burning your car to the ground. It is generally a bad idea to just keep throwing fuses into something before you figure out why the last one opened!

You're probably in the market for a new amp but you can confirm by just pulling the +12 out of your amp, taping it off, then seeing if the fuse inserted up by your battery opens when you try to replace it.

 

[BlibbaBlob]

Well the amp still powers on just fine, however my bass remote stays off and the sub isn't getting any signal. There was only one time a replacement fuse immediately blew, but it hasn't happened since. I'm wondering if the LOC wires that were electrical taped may have been shorting out to the chassis somehow, because the amp powers on fine now that I went back and applied shrinktube to the taped wires, there's just no sound.

Wuddayathink? 🤔

 

[HardofWhoring]

Just to make sure did you remove the bass knob and try? It will just see it at full volume, (you can at least make sure it's not the knob).

You don't need to disconnect the battery to reconnect a fuse. I certainly wouldn't have done it with current running through. You didn't say that, but you either had it on when you put the fuse back in, or you have a hot wire that shouldn't be. You can pull and put back in fuses all day long if their is no load, (which there would have had to have been if you got a puff of smoke).

If its going in and out, it SHOULD be one of the three things (from how this sounds)
1. You are overheating and needs to cool. - If it is not playing for a while before this happens, (long enough to get it nice and hot), then I don't think that's it.

Now these next two might be tough to admit, but when you say you had electrical tape holding the wire in place. I just have to question the overall quality of the install.

2. Your power wire is not connected securely. It jarred loose and may have come in contact with your ground wire at the amp's terminals.

3. You don't have a good ground. - This is my guess, (because it's more common). It probably took two years for a semi-secure connection to jar loose. Did you check all the connections are SOLID? Did they use sheet metal screws to secure a ground? Did they use lugs? How were the lugs attached?

How is it all wired, specifically the power and ground cable ends. How and where they are wired, would be my starting point.

Pictures help the most, or describe in as much detail as possible.

 

[BlibbaBlob]

Q1. did you remove the bass knob and try?

Q2. If its going in and out, it SHOULD be one of the three things (from how this sounds)
1a. You are overheating and needs to cool. - If it is not playing for a while before this happens, (long enough to get it nice and hot), then I don't think that's it.

3a. Now these next two might be tough to admit, but when you say you had electrical tape holding the wire in place. I just have to question the overall quality of the install.

2a. Your power wire is not connected securely. It jarred loose and may have come in contact with your ground wire at the amp's terminals.

3aa. You don't have a good ground. - This is my guess, (because it's more common). It probably took two years for a semi-secure connection to jar loose. Did you check all the connections are SOLID? Did they use sheet metal screws to secure a ground? Did they use lugs? How were the lugs attached?

4a.How is it all wired, specifically the power and ground cable ends. How and where they are wired, would be my starting point.

Pictures help the most, or describe in as much detail as possible.

Q1. Yes, I just checked again and still no signal from the sub. Amp powers up like normal.

Q2. Its not going in-n-out anymore
1a. Not overheating
3a. HOW DARE YOU 😭
2a. Just checked and they're still good

3aa. I tapped into an existing ground after cleaning everything off with a wire brush and drill.

4a. Power/LOC on driver side

RCA/LOC/Bass remote on pax side

I'll upload some pics:

-I custom built the box to specs
-Wires are tucked behind backseats under velcro flaps
-All LOC wiring now has shrink tube

I'll check the power/ground tmrw if I have a chance.

Thanks for your help!