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<blockquote data-quote="BlibbaBlob" data-source="post: 8829682" data-attributes="member: 688151">I&#039;ve been running an NVX 12&quot; 350wrms on a Rockville db11 350wrms @ 2 ohms w/bass remote, LOC and stock HU and after 2 years it finally went out.First I noticed the light on my bass remote was out and there was no sound from the system. After a few minutes, it kicks on, plays for a little while and then cuts out again. Sounds like a possible short?This time I notice the fuse is blown. I pull the fuse out, but like an idiot, tried to replace it without disconnecting the battery <img class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" alt="😅" title="😅" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f605.png" /> the fuse made contact with the amp and there was a small puff of smoke so I quickly yanked the fuse back out.I disconnect the battery and install a new fuse...it blows as soon as I start the car. I check the wiring to my LOC and noticed I had a few wires with electrical tape, so I replaced them with shrink tube and replaced the fuse again.Now the amp powers onThe bass remote doesn&#039;t power upThere is no signal from the subCould it be a short somewhere blew the amp fuse, bass remote and sub?One thing that may be worth mentioning, my amp came with a Dyno test rating of 425wrms @ 2ohms while my sub is rated 350wrms @ 2ohms. Granted my sub probably wasn&#039;t getting 425w regularly, but maybe the additional power might&#039;ve been a factor?Thanks for any help! I think I have some pics and videos from last year I can post later <img class="smilie smilie--emoji" loading="lazy" alt="😋" title="😋" src="https://cdn.jsdelivr.net/joypixels/assets/8.0/png/unicode/64/1f60b.png" /></blockquote>

[QUOTE="BlibbaBlob, post: 8829682, member: 688151"] I've been running an NVX 12" 350wrms on a Rockville db11 350wrms @ 2 ohms w/bass remote, LOC and stock HU and after 2 years it finally went out. First I noticed the light on my bass remote was out and there was no sound from the system. After a few minutes, it kicks on, plays for a little while and then cuts out again. Sounds like a possible short? This time I notice the fuse is blown. I pull the fuse out, but like an idiot, tried to replace it without disconnecting the battery 😅 the fuse made contact with the amp and there was a small puff of smoke so I quickly yanked the fuse back out. I disconnect the battery and install a new fuse...it blows as soon as I start the car. I check the wiring to my LOC and noticed I had a few wires with electrical tape, so I replaced them with shrink tube and replaced the fuse again. Now the amp powers on The bass remote doesn't power up There is no signal from the sub Could it be a short somewhere blew the amp fuse, bass remote and sub? One thing that may be worth mentioning, my amp came with a Dyno test rating of 425wrms @ 2ohms while my sub is rated 350wrms @ 2ohms. Granted my sub probably wasn't getting 425w regularly, but maybe the additional power might've been a factor? Thanks for any help! I think I have some pics and videos from last year I can post later 😋 [/QUOTE]

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