Subwoofer Recommendation/Sound Science

In my experience unless your seeking some type of flat response (for SQ competition purposes) some emphasis in the lower range is desirable and usually wanted by most people. I can't count the number of users that went from sealed to ported and for that reason. The cheapest sealed sub I'd go with (for my personal tastes) would set me back a lil' bit ($). Those shelf adjustments don't bother me as long as it sounds good to me and usually it does... IDKI focus more on imaging the fronts keeping the lows as hard to localize as possible and strong mid-bass... and if I do it correctly for me the lows will always seem bloated a bit I guess (low 30's-hi 20's)... but that's just my preference as tuning a flatter response previously always left me wanting and missing the lows.

I just like to enjoy my music... not turn it into a science, been there... done that.

I'm bangin' away with a 4th that would probably disgust you atm... but it's fun...
I know all that, but from what some people on this thread are saying, doesn't seem like that.
I hate quoting myself...

I always put enjoyment and accuracy into anything I listen to... not boomy bass... lol... well, till I threw in the 4th I'm using currently.

Have fun once you ever decide to build that enclosure I sent you. If it's not to your liking... hey... can't please em all I suppose

 
Bassheads. Only thing that matters is loud.
I mean one is saying you have to change the gain for each song. That should tell you all you need to know.
I never said to go back and turn the gain up and down for each song *******, its a simple sub level adjustment.

Can you guess which is ported and sealed? Same woofer btw.

If you didn’t say wrong info I would not “argue”

But unlike others I show data. View attachment 26557506View attachment 26557507
thats a pretty garbage frequency response, not flat at all for sealed.

32864693_2158241530869417_7809185141896511488_n.jpg


I like mines to be within a few dbs of eachother. Smoother more accurate bass than any kind of sealed setup with a high dollar driver. Guys at MECA meets are impressed with how flat it plays. One is planning to rebuild to a 6th orders while others are going to IB or T line. Sealed doesn't cut it.

 
your mids and highs will be too loud compared to the bass if that was the case so no, this is exactly why you use a sub level control to have even output on almost all music. I'd figure you'd jump back to the "listen to music the way it should" excuse what a joke.


Thats literally from box design and vehicle loading. You have poor phase and group delay in your current alignment, position the box in every location and orientation possible. Make sure all bass boost and bass EQ is flat. Every vehicle is different with different resonant frequencies and overall acoustics. Your friend's pioneers will sound different in your car and your alpine will sound different in his car. This is why an actual sound quality tuned ported box is necessary. If your car tends to have a hard peak at 45hz. A lower tuned ported box will allow it to smooth the response to have a balanced bandwidth with next to no peaks, your 25hz loudness should be as loud as your 45 and 55hz. Port size and airspace will control the accuracy of the driver and how the box and port is oriented along with your head unit's time correction will also determine how accurate your bass will sound.
Thanks for that, it's definitely what I hear. Upper bass has a lot of slam but then quickly rolls off, while having a hard time differentiating bass guitar. EDM, not really a problem as it doesn't matter as much (imo). I listen to mainly metal, rock, EDM, with some indie pop thrown around in that mix.

 
I never said to go back and turn the gain up and down for each song *******, its a simple sub level adjustment.


thats a pretty garbage frequency response, not flat at all for sealed.

32864693_2158241530869417_7809185141896511488_n.jpg


I like mines to be within a few dbs of eachother. Smoother more accurate bass than any kind of sealed setup with a high dollar driver. Guys at MECA meets are impressed with how flat it plays. One is planning to rebuild to a 6th orders while others are going to IB or T line. Sealed doesn't cut it.
That’s 5db 20-80hz.... with no EQ...

 
I’m going to say this one more time.

If you have to change tunes during a song you ****.

I guess next time I get judged I’ll have to leave the judge notes on where to have the sub level on each song.

 
Now that I've had this sub for a while now, and ran some low frequency response tests, I noticed the sub has a HUGE peak at 40hz and drops off heavily then. With bass guitar songs and songs with fast bass the sub has a hard time keeping up with the changing notes. I've started looking at building my own box but the only issue is the little tiny wedges on the inside, I don't know how I'll cut that perfectly with a saw. Any advice or can I leave that part out???

 
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Now that I've had this sub for a while now, and ran some low frequency response tests, I noticed the sub has a HUGE peak at 40hz and drops off heavily at then. With bass guitar songs and songs with fast bass the sub has a hard time keeping up with the changing notes. I've started looking at building my own box but the only issue is the little tiny wedges on the inside, I don't know how I'll cut that perfectly with a jigsaw. Any advice or can I leave that part out???
Most saws... jig or circular have an adjustable/swiveling table so a 45 degree beveled cut is possible... take a close look at yours

Are you still using the sealed box?

 
How do you guys measure the frequency response of your subs?
I literally use test tones from 10hz up to 200hz in 5hz steps rec. @ 0db. Volume at a set level, sub amp gain knob in the middle blah blah blah. I play the tracks in order from 10 - 200hz and I do this several times. After 20 min or so it is more and more obvious what your box likes, what the quietest frequency is (What you can boost) and what the loudest frequency is (What you can attenuate). What this did for me was tell me what my sub section is lacking and what it has to much of. I set eq's and the crossover with the knowledge. It also helped me crossover my mids. I still have to adjust my bass level with different songs.

 
I literally use test tones from 10hz up to 200hz in 5hz steps rec. @ 0db. Volume at a set level, sub amp gain knob in the middle blah blah blah. I play the tracks in order from 10 - 200hz and I do this several times. After 20 min or so it is more and more obvious what your box likes, what the quietest frequency is (What you can boost) and what the loudest frequency is (What you can attenuate). What this did for me was tell me what my sub section is lacking and what it has to much of. I set eq's and the crossover with the knowledge. It also helped me crossover my mids. I still have to adjust my bass level with different songs.
Sad thing is I'm still with my stock headunit and fronts. So no eq and proper crossover. I'm just more curious on how it would look on a graph.

 
If I'm correct... I measured my prefab box that's supposed to be 1.00 cu ft.

13.70 width (in)
13.50 height (in)
13.60 length (in) 

Screenshot_2.png

 
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