Sub will not turn on

[ukrkoz 10+ year member]

Hi all

I have 2009 Ridgeline, a Honda.

Unfortunately, I had Fry's installer take 4.5 hrs yesterday to "install" a powered subwoofer into my truck.

We decided to connect sub via RCA converter to a rear door speaker.

He had to remove several panels to run wiring, and he had sub working, with panels removed. It's a standard Red, Black, and Blue wire connection to amp. Blue wire is connected to a Yellow wire in what I am assuming is ignition harness, as it goes into the steering wheel under the dash.

Anyhow. Reinstalling everything back, he cross threaded seat belt bolt, that had to be removed to allow pillar B panel removal.

Both him and his partner spent another hour trying to install it back, and at that point, I got pissed, told them to reimburse me for install and clip panels back in place, and left.

I fixed the bolt at home but, same time, noticed that sub is, actually, not working.

There is no Power light on it.

I disconnected that sub, and connected to my Camry that has same connection in the trunk. Sub worked there fine. I took Camry sub and connected to the Ridgeline connections - no Power light, sub does not work.

Hence, it is not sub, but the way he had wiring done in Ridgeline.

I did voltmeter testing, and here's results:

WITH IGNITION OFF

Black>Blue=0V

Black>Red=12V

Blue>Red=12V

WITH IGNITION ON

Black>Red=12V

Blue>Red=12V

Black>Blue=0V

We did not have OEM headunit accessed, hence he tapped into that Yellow wire in the harness under the dash.

So, there is 12V to the amp; Ground is good; I am assuming, as I know nothing, that sub simply does not turn on from Blue wire.

I just double checked, and harness is definitely going into steering wheel.





I'd rather not go back to same fella, as now I am really upset. Any suggestions?

Thank you

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[Nutdawg651]

I had this happen , try to get the remote wire to go thru the radio fuse in the fuse box youll at least get a 10 amp current thru the remote wir to turn it on ,my remote wir was fried thru the head unit in mine now thats the only way I can run an amp in my car until I get a new wire harness installed due to "backyard installers" as I call them I dont know how they get by even if there certified they just want the money they dont have the love or passion for the installs anymore thats why I do my own *** that

 

[ukrkoz 10+ year member]

I can try that. I'll have to splice current wire and run it out to the fuse box though, as it's under the hood.

Any other suggestions or observations? Is voltage supposed to be the way it is showing?

 

[robert420 10+ year member]

even simpler, run a wire from the 12v of the amp up front and a wire from the remote terminal up front as well. then just put a switch on it and mount the switch in a convenient location

 

[NFrazier 10+ year member]

Well first and foremost you kinda have no idea what you're referencing. You have posted the IGNITION SYSTEM of the car, not the IGNITION itself. At the ignition (the wiring that the person tapped into) you'll have: white, black/white, black/yellow, YELLOW which is an accessory, and white/black. So your alldata diagram, or whatever it came from is irrelevant.

I'm not really following your testing.

So take your volt meter and put the black lead to the ground (black wire from what you said), then put the red probe to the thick red wire (with key off) it should read 12v with the key off. Now move the red PROBE to the blue wire (with ignition off), it should read 0v.

Keep the probes where they are and turn the ignition on, the blue wire should read 12v.

Once you make those (or clarify) report back.

 

[ukrkoz 10+ year member]

Thank you. I went through all Alldata wiring diagrams I could possibly find relevant, and that was the best I could. They simply did not have one listed as "ignition". Give me credit - at least, I tried.

I had done exactly what you mentioned.

I'll make it clear then:

WITH IGNITION OFF

Black to Blue=0V

Black to Red=12V

Blue to Red=12V

WITH IGNITION ON

Black to Red=12V

Blue to Red=12V

Black to Blue=0V

As in - V-meter was connected black lead to black wire, red lead to red, and so on. Hence, on the surface, I do have voltage just like you described it. Yet, sub will not turn on in that car, but works fine in another car with same leads to it.

To address the other posters - manual switch it destined to be forgotten to be turned off=dead battery.

I have no problem running blue wire to HU fuse. Issue I have with that is simple - I bought car used and de-powering HU will shut it down and code will be required to "revive" it. Hence trip to dealership and such.

Also, why did it he have it working at the shop, but it quit after panels were clipped back in? If it's broken wire, then I'd have had 12V on the leads. Mistery to me is - I have voltage on wires, does not work in car A, works in car B.

Does remote have any to do with this? Installer did not have it plugged in, it's still in the box.

 

[ukrkoz 10+ year member]

I believe I see where the issue is:

WITH IGNITION ON

Black to Red=12V

Blue to Red=12V

Black to Blue=0V

Now move the red PROBE to the blue wire (with ignition off), it should read 0v.

 

Keep the probes where they are and turn the ignition on, the blue wire should read 12v.

 

[NFrazier 10+ year member]

the black probe should NEVER leave the black wire (ground). Place the RED probe on the red which reads 12v so your constant power is good. now keep the black probe on the ground and put the red probe on the blue and turn the ignition on, if it reads 0 than its the remote turn on. that wire appears to be the accessory source so it's either 1. the connection is poor or 2. it's broken somewhere.

 

[ukrkoz 10+ year member]

Yes Sir. Done like you said. You saw the pic and clip he used to heck Yellow wire.

Will you be kind enough to advise on 2 things:

1. Is that Yellow wire OK to tap into and I simply need a better clamp? Or splicer, or whatever? I have some cute things in my garage to splice 2 wires together.

2. If that Yellow is NOT the good choice, what option do I have WITHOUT pulling HU out or de-powering it? Due to security code.

 

[NFrazier 10+ year member]

As a introductory matter: I NEVER condone T-Taps (which is what he used) in any application, for any purpose - PERIOD.

1. That wire, if it is the accessory wire, is absolutely okay to tap into. I perfer military splice and/or military splice w/ solder. The wire should ABSOLUTELY be fused to protect the ignition from any kind of accidental short on the remote turn on.

2. See #1 //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

Yes Sir. Done like you said. You saw the pic and clip he used to heck Yellow wire. Will you be kind enough to advise on 2 things:

1. Is that Yellow wire OK to tap into and I simply need a better clamp? Or splicer, or whatever? I have some cute things in my garage to splice 2 wires together.

2. If that Yellow is NOT the good choice, what option do I have WITHOUT pulling HU out or de-powering it? Due to security code.

A yellow ignition wire is a good place to splice into for a remote wire. I'm going to guess that there's a bad connection somewhere or the wire was broken when a panel was clipped back on.

 

[SounDrive Pro Seller]

Yes Sir. Done like you said. You saw the pic and clip he used to heck Yellow wire. Will you be kind enough to advise on 2 things:

1. Is that Yellow wire OK to tap into and I simply need a better clamp? Or splicer, or whatever? I have some cute things in my garage to splice 2 wires together.

2. If that Yellow is NOT the good choice, what option do I have WITHOUT pulling HU out or de-powering it? Due to security code.

A yellow ignition wire is a good place to splice into for a remote wire. I'm going to guess that there's a bad connection somewhere or the wire was broken when a panel was clipped back on.

 

[ukrkoz 10+ year member]

Mystery solved.

Thank you all for help.

I re-spliced using same T-tap. Got good 12V.

IT"S THE SUB. It turns on and turns off in about 3 seconds. I can turn it on from the ignition key, light comes up, then dies pretty much right away.

I'll return it. No big deal.

 

[ukrkoz 10+ year member]

Yep, all works now. The only issue is, there is no 12V on yellow wire with ignition in I position. Headunit still operates. So, sitting with engine turned off and listening to music - no subwoofer.

 

[NFrazier 10+ year member]

a true ignition source only operates on the on position (typically II) and during crank. It does NOT function during accessory (as the radio does).

So if you turn it to clicks to the "On" position than it should kick back on.

An accessory source is on during accessory, on (ignition) and turns off during crank.