Sub enclosure working optimally?

Timboj

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Hi all,

I've got an 03 350Z and recently installed a Pioneer DMH-A5450BT head unit (replacing an old Sony something.. doesn't matter) along with a set of Focal ES 165 K components in the front. I removed the rears about 6-7 years ago when I ran new wiring (speakers, RCAs and trigger) and installed a Pioneer GM-D8604 1200W amp and Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 10-inch sub in a home made enclosure. The amp runs the fronts and sub.

Screenshot 2022-07-27 115055.jpg

I went with the TS-SW2502S4 because I didn't need a tonne of bass and wanted to use the stock location (behind the driver). I definitely should've reached out before I built the enclosure, but I've always wanted feedback on whether what I did was 'correct' (within my constraints) or not. Even with low expectations it's always sounded a little weak, like it's trying to overcome the internal pressure.

I don't have the exact measurements on hand but I recall at the time it was at the lower end of the prescribed volume range, but still within range. It's sealed and I didn't use any lining/foam/wool inside either.

Screenshot 2022-07-08 135047.jpg

Screenshot 2022-07-08 135030.jpg

Screenshot 2022-07-27 135835.jpg

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
 
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hispls

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Too small sealed box will tend to lack low extension. You might could add batting inside to get a little more low extension but it may be at the expense of overall output.

More importantly I think is where this box sits in your vehicle and which direction the sub fires. Just moving the box around or firing the sub into a corner, back, up, whatever will have more dramatic effect on your output than say 25% too much or too little box volume.

Worth mentioning, while the box looks sound, be 100% sure it is well sealed, completely airtight and you don't have any leaky seems or air leaking around the sub mounting hole or wherever you ran your wires out.
 
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winkychevelle

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I personally would've recommended a sundown sd4 over the pioneer.

Without knowing the specs on the box I'd say it's likely too small or the sub isn't getting much power from the amp. 250w isn't alot. It will fill in the lower spectrum but it's not going to thump you chest
 
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Timboj

CarAudio.com Newbie
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Melbourne
@winkychevelle Yeah I didn't do much research at the time. Just hoped for the best with a Pioneer combo.

I recently picked up a Pioneer GM-A4704 amp because it was a silly price on sale. Worst case I was just going to resell it, but I was also considering installing it just for the sub. Worth it?
 

spokey9

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I wouldn't run a sub off it but it'd probably be good for running mids and tweets.
 

winkychevelle

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Pioneer amps make rated power so it's not bad gear the a470 is a 4 channel that is weaker the the d8604 personally I'd have no use for it.

The 2 channel version will likely work well with that sub adding it's a 4ohm sub
 
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Buck

Why so Sirius?
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Most shallow mounts seem to be severely lacking in bass, IMO, and tend to have terrible lows due to inherent depth restrictions. They seem to often have compromises in sound due to their shape, and running one sealed typically isn’t going to be a ton of bass. Idk how much space you’re willing to give up. The only tuning you have with a sealed box is its size, and the smaller the airspace, the higher the peak (Fsc in Hz).

You could try to run smaller woofers ported, or maybe get a “full size” woofer that doesn’t face the same mechanical limitations. The issue here, imo, is just the nature of that sub. I’ve done ported boxes in those, but it takes up a ton of your extremely limited trunk space. The hatch shape of those vehicles works really well to boost bass when you have a ported box under the hatch glass, I guess if it’s not a convertible. I’ve done single ported 12’s in those, for example.
 

Buck

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Turn the cargo floor area into a box. All about 2 inches deep, or whatever clearance the flat sub needs.

He can if he has the room. I’ve done sealed/ported before that goes down into the spare tire well in other vehicles, where the trunk is still flat and usable, and the recessed sub and port for ported are both flat on the floor. That’s totally doable, if it’ll actually fit. Hatch backs like that tend to get loud without much actual power or woofer. I did a old cvr 12 with 400w and a 3” aero iirc @ like 34 hz in a 350z, and it was louder than it had business being, lol. Surprisingly loud; very very simple box and system.

Like others have said, the box positioning inside of the vehicle is or can be a huge change in sound. So there’s quite a few factors OP could align and take advantage of to make the most out of what he’s wanting to do.

Is that current box behind the rear seats in a cubby?
 
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Timboj

CarAudio.com Newbie
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Melbourne
Most shallow mounts seem to be severely lacking in bass, IMO, and tend to have terrible lows due to inherent depth restrictions. They seem to often have compromises in sound due to their shape, and running one sealed typically isn’t going to be a ton of bass. Idk how much space you’re willing to give up. The only tuning you have with a sealed box is its size, and the smaller the airspace, the higher the peak (Fsc in Hz).

You could try to run smaller woofers ported, or maybe get a “full size” woofer that doesn’t face the same mechanical limitations. The issue here, imo, is just the nature of that sub. I’ve done ported boxes in those, but it takes up a ton of your extremely limited trunk space. The hatch shape of those vehicles works really well to boost bass when you have a ported box under the hatch glass, I guess if it’s not a convertible. I’ve done single ported 12’s in those, for example.

Thanks Buck. That's what I was worried about. Maybe I'll look at building a bigger box at a later date.

I've more or less maximised the available space without taking an angle grinder to the bracket that sits about halfway into the cavity. I had to grind out some of the cavity opening to get the box in to start with.

I'm not precious about hacking the car up if I can still make it look stock, and the bracket serves no purpose for me.

Re your last question, it's a two seater but yes, it's an interchangeable cubby depending LHD/RHD. Houses either the stock sub (basically a plate that bolts into the opening so it can use the whole cavity) or a storage locker (which is where my amp sits).
 
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audiobaun

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Hi all,

I've got an 03 350Z and recently installed a Pioneer DMH-A5450BT head unit (replacing an old Sony something.. doesn't matter) along with a set of Focal ES 165 K components in the front. I removed the rears about 6-7 years ago when I ran new wiring (speakers, RCAs and trigger) and installed a Pioneer GM-D8604 1200W amp and Pioneer TS-SW2502S4 10-inch sub in a home made enclosure. The amp runs the fronts and sub.

View attachment 40664

I went with the TS-SW2502S4 because I didn't need a tonne of bass and wanted to use the stock location (behind the driver). I definitely should've reached out before I built the enclosure, but I've always wanted feedback on whether what I did was 'correct' (within my constraints) or not. Even with low expectations it's always sounded a little weak, like it's trying to overcome the internal pressure.

I don't have the exact measurements on hand but I recall at the time it was at the lower end of the prescribed volume range, but still within range. It's sealed and I didn't use any lining/foam/wool inside either.

View attachment 40661

View attachment 40662

View attachment 40675

Any advice would be appreciated, thanks.
👀 👀 👀 👀 💩 Man..Do yourself a favor and get those Xovers out of the doors so they survive!!! Holy Hell baskets.!! Id put them under the seats at the least.Or under the dash somewhere zipp Tied even.:poop:Moisture from Rain water is going to ruin those jokers!! If not the heat being encased within the door panels!! Protect your gear man!! Wire and a little time spent is cheaper than replacing a set of Xovers
 
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Timboj

CarAudio.com Newbie
5
1
Melbourne
Ah, thanks for the advice, but you make that sound like that's a foregone conclusion. The crossovers I swapped out look and sound exactly the same as when I first installed them 7 years ago. And the car was street parked for most of that period.

I'll assume what you're saying is best practice, but I'll take my chances on this one. I'll probably want to upgrade them again in a similar amount of time anyway.

And yes, wire and time would be cheaper than replacing crossovers, but I haven't stated the opposite?! It sounds like you're having an imaginary argument.
 

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