Stock Head Unit Tweeter Buzz

reipan

Junior Member
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Vancouver
This is my first post, I'd appreciate any advice //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

I have a 2009 Lancer Ralliart with the basic CD player (no sub or amp). It's pretty low end, 14W speakers (not sure what the HU spec is). I chose to upgade speakers first and installed Alpine SPR-60s in the rear doors and SPR-60Cs in the front doors/A pillar.

I'm now getting a buzz from the tweeters (front & rear) now which wasn't there with the stock speakers. old speakers 4ohm, new speakers are 4ohm. checked all wiring and connections for shorts loose connections. i get the buzz at any volume and with or without the engine running. Stock HU ground seems OK.

I'm an electrician but a car audio noob, not sure what is causing the buzzing.

I plan to upgrade the HU to an Alpine iDA-X305S in a few months, will the problem go away with a decent HU? My stock HU is crap, is it to week to drive the new higher wattage speakers therefore causing the buzz?

It's worse on certain songs and happens with CDs and ipod plugged into aux input. any help trouble shooting or advice would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers

 

subzero

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sounds like interference or grounding problems. could also be wiring issues.

Trace your steps again and make sure all speakers are wired right and nothing is grounded out.

Also, if your stock speakers are not coaxial, then the sound might have been there the whole time, but your old speakers wherent able to reproduce the tone. If so, then it might also be a headunit problem.

 

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
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Quad Cities, IL
i think you are right to be suspect of the factory radio.

if it was front only then i'd expect some EMF with the crossover's inductors and would suggest moving them.

my advice is usually to replace the head unit before the speakers, since the factory head unit will be insufficient to power aftermarket speakers.

i assume you simply extended the factory wire at each speaker? how did you make those connections? solder/heat shrink? did you use female disconnect terminals (the ones that came with the speakers)? the methods that NEC finds acceptable for AC wiring in homes is not acceptable in the automotive environment. i.e. no wire nuts and electrical tape as an insulator over crimp or soldered terminals/connectors. maybe you knew that, but it's worth mentioning. one common mistake i have seen made over the years is to wrap bare wire around the speaker terminals. that has a tendency to short out against the speaker basket - which is grounded to the car door. one strand touching any metal can wreck havoc on a system.

the best way to install car audio is to take a que from the factory wiring methods. all in loom, all secured often, all terminated in plugs - i.e. no splices.

here is a good build log that details wiring methods for car audio - pictures say a lot more than words:

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/car-audio-build-logs-cars-trucks-suvs/516096-2005-scion-tc-sq-hertz-audison-pioneer-build-log.html

 
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R

reipan

Junior Member
4
0
Vancouver
Thanks for the replies,

i did reuse the factory wiring, the factory wire termination connectors went into a molex type connector (i broke them apart hoping the proper female wire end was inside buy wasn't). i bought crimp-on female ends for the alpine + & - speaker tabs (similar to the units on the ends of the Alpine crossover speaker wire) stripped the right amount of wire and crimped them (they seem quite secure). should I be using solder to connect the speaker wire to the speakers + & - tabs? I'll definatley look at the documant you've include, thanks.

Is it worth while running new aftermarket wires when I replace the HU? I doubt I'll add an amp or sub (maybe the alpine KTP-445 which plug and play) i'm not looking for super load, I just like clean audio.

I know i'm under powering the new Alpine's, If i listen to these with the buzzing for 6 months while i'm waiting to replace the head unit will i do them any harm?

 

keep_hope_alive

Acoustics Engineer
Premium Member
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Quad Cities, IL
good crimp connections are sufficient. solder is best, but not a requirement.

clean sound at higher volumes requires an external amp. even an aftermarket HU has a lot of distortion in the tiny amp built-in.

depends on what the buzzing is and what causes it. may be a sign the HU will fail. 6 mo. is too long - just buy a cheap used HU now - even $30 for a basic used Alpine or something.

 

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