Stock alternator/electrical system questions

[Z3n 10+ year member]

Hey guys, another question here. It seems all I do is ask questions!

So I'm going to be installing my first audio system in my car, probably this week. I have all my components ordered and they should be here tomorrow. Hopefully I won't be too busy with school and can get started installing!

I'm a poor high school student so my system isn't probably going to be the best components or even that good with your standards here, but oh well. I think I'll like it.

I'm going to have 2 amps -- a Bazooka MGA11000H mono class H amp that is rated at 1000w RMS. I don't think it'll put out a full 1000, but I don't need it too. I'll also have a 2-channel Boston Acoustics amp for my front speakers. That's rated at 2x80w RMS.

My question is, will my car's stock electrical system/alternator be able to handle it? I have a 2000 Toyota Celica GTS. The stock alt is only 80 amps if I remember correctly.

I guess I'll now for sure once I get the whole system installed. But my gut feeling is I'm going to be having some dimming or lights, maybe some other stuff.

I'm doing the Big 3 upgrade for sure, so I'm wondering what I should do, if worse comes to worse? I'm a high schooler, so my parents may help pay for maybe 50% of whatever I need, hopefully. I emailed Nate at Excessive Amperage and he said it'd be $355 for a 200 amp alt. I don't think I'd ever need more than that. I don't foresee going to crazy with my car audio. Or would a second battery or just an upgraded battery be okay. The car has a Duralast in it now, but that thing don't look like its in the best condition.

Just need some opinions! Thanks!

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[All_Logix 10+ year member]

Honeslty no, your stock alt will not support the full potential of the load, however it will perform, you lights will just dim drastically. Good call on the Big 3, helps tremendously. Be weary of a HO alt because it can really make some interesting problems. Being as this is your first audio system I would take it step by step.

 

[wenn_du_weinst 10+ year member]

I run a dd m2 at .5 stock electrical

 

[Z3n 10+ year member]

Yeah, I didn't think my stock alt would support it. I'll definitely take it one step at a time. Once I get it installed then I can tell how bad it is. Go someplace dark and turn up the bass I guess.

The subs I'm going to run are 400w RMS each so a total of 800w RMS. Even if the amp doesn't give a full 1000w RMS it'll push them well I think. Does an amp rated for 1000w RMS always pull 1000w RMS of power? I looked around for an answer but never saw one. Or will it draw less power when its not hitting as hard?

 

[>>SQL<< 10+ year member]

the amp pulls more power as you turn it up

that is why I think you will be fine on the stock alt

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

I run one of nate's 200 amps in my tc. I hold very good voltage running a zx2500 and a alpine pdx 2.150. I have 2 trunk batts but I don't think I need more then 1.

 

[sacsking916 5,000+ posts]

you probably will be fine with a extra battery. that amp i doubt is a current hog. big 3 and extra battery if needed should be fine

 

[Z3n 10+ year member]

Thanks for all the feedback guys, and so quick too! I doubt I'll have the amp cranked up fully very much, maybe never. It's a small car so it shouldn't take too much to get loud. I'll see how it goes!

EDIT: If I have to get an extra battery, what would you guys recommend? This also might apply if I need to replace the stock battery under the hood. I don't know how great that thing is.

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

Just get the HO Alt and call it good.

Did you check with Mechman? He may have a 150-180amp that would be slightly cheaper.

 

[TheUnderFighter 10+ year member]

I don't know why people are suggesting a HO alt on a ~1000w set-up, but I suppose every car is different. Every car is different, but I really don't foresee you having a problem, especially with a Big 3 don. In my case, subs and speakers, I'm running ~1600w, with OEM alt (that is weaker than yours), and 2 year old OEM battery. With the Big 3 upgrade done. And I only experience minor dimming at very loud volumes. If you're really worried, I'd just get a fresh, stout battery under the hood and see where you're at. I don't think you'll have any problems though, especially if you don't crank up the volume much.

 

[ColterDC 10+ year member]

I'd like to see this 1600 rms system running off a 75 amp Alt with, as you put it, minor dimming. Are you sure that at high volumes, lights on, heater running, etc that your car isn't about to die? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Either that car you've got is running off 5 amps for all the stock electrical system requirements or your dimming is a little more than minor.

The only reason I always suggest a H/O Alt over a battery for dimming issues is because if given the choice of replacing the power plant or the power storage, I worry first about the item producing the power.

But your point is taken and if I could amend my post I would say this;

First install what you want to install and see if you get any dimming issues. If not....enjoy.

If so.. do the following in order.

1. Big 3

2. H/O Alt

3. Extra batteries

 

[Z3n 10+ year member]

Well my system would be about 1160w RMS if each amp was pulling its full RMS at all time. I'm not going to have everything turned up to max settings so I don't think it will pull that much juice 24/7. I can hope for minor dimming.

Any suggestions for a battery upgrade? I might do that even if its not 100% necessary, just because I have no clue about the condition of the current battery.

 

[LosIsATool 5,000+ posts]

HO supplies to juice, all batteries do is keep your voltage above 12.6 or were they rest at. Do you know how fast you can pull a battery down from 14 to 12. One good surge will do it. That is not there purpose. Everytime your lights dim your amp clips. Everytime your voltage drops to battery resting you lose a few hundred watts.

 

[akheathen Premium Member]

well, what is the impeedance load for the max rms? what ohms are you running on ylur sub(s).... amps are rated different, but one thing to look at is the fuse rating...the maximum output is only going to pull amperage less than the fuse rating. as a rule of thumb- i look at 80a as 1krms just fine. a high output alt would be ideal, but probably not quite justified. 2k, definately, but i doubt you will be drawing all that current that the whole car takes up all at once. i run 1160rms just fine with a 165a alt, without dragging the alt down into the battery, and it doesn't sound like you want to abuse it and drain your voltage down, either. i say, look at your voltage when playing at leisure. if you are getting into the mid 12's, then you are really working the alt, and pulling the battery down, which could call for new alt, and/or battery at any time, or even damage the equipment. then decide

 

[OmegaBunny 10+ year member]

You should be alright with the big three. I'm running 1500 on a 100a alt with no dimming at full tilt, no big three done yet. not sure what the amps draw but I would be certain you will be okay. If you do have any issues pick up a second battery.

Grab one of Ram's UPS12-300MR

http://www.caraudio.com/forums/electrical-wiring-classifieds/522149-rams-agm-battery-sale-thread-dfw-4.html