STILL F***ing up. Im literally going to light my sh** on fire!!!

Well, here's one that gets even the non-noobs. I was messing with my batts a couple weeks ago, had to disconnect the front to rear run from the front batt. got done, and forgot to reconnect //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif . Everything ran for a couple hours on my 2 blue tops, then the bass started cutting out, and all kinds of crazy shi t. Came back to it a couple days later, thought about it, popped the hood and bam! found it. Also, "clipping" will not cause your amp to go into protect by itself, the result of clipping with enough power... i.e. blown/locked/burnt sub can cause the amp to go into protect. I think that you may have a bad amp. whether it went bad from you , or was already doesnt matter. However if you dont have the alt-batt part of the big 3 done, the rest of it doesnt matter, and voltage drops may have killed it, it is a 2.2 kwatt amp after all, and needs a decent electrical to supply it, or bad things can and will happen. Find a known good amp and do a swap, after getting the dmm and checking the sub for shorts.

 
Well, here's one that gets even the non-noobs. I was messing with my batts a couple weeks ago, had to disconnect the front to rear run from the front batt. got done, and forgot to reconnect //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif . Everything ran for a couple hours on my 2 blue tops, then the bass started cutting out, and all kinds of crazy shi t. Came back to it a couple days later, thought about it, popped the hood and bam! found it. Also, "clipping" will not cause your amp to go into protect by itself, the result of clipping with enough power... i.e. blown/locked/burnt sub can cause the amp to go into protect. I think that you may have a bad amp. whether it went bad from you , or was already doesnt matter. However if you dont have the alt-batt part of the big 3 done, the rest of it doesnt matter, and voltage drops may have killed it, it is a 2.2 kwatt amp after all, and needs a decent electrical to supply it, or bad things can and will happen. Find a known good amp and do a swap, after getting the dmm and checking the sub for shorts.
Yep, I've even seen issues where shitty fuse blocks connecting the batteries have fallen apart.

 
Although this might not be the culprit, you could try it out if you're having voltage issues. You said you didn't do the alternator to battery wire on the big 3. That's arguably the most important one - without it, the rest of the big 3 is pointless.
How much power are you running?
i couldnt do that one bc it drained my battery... and im running aq2200 and a kinetik 2200

Does the amp get hot? Does it always happen at around 35 ish volume? no

Have you tried it at low volume with the "loud" setting on? Basically can you hear boom at low volumes.... its on loud

Can you put your Sony's back in temporarily for testing? i sold those like two years ago

What is your battery, 2nd battery, amp voltage on a multi meter? kinetik 1800 in the back, and interstate in the front

What is your speaker box ohms on a multi meter?dont have one

Can you disconnect the sub amp and turn your radio past 35 with no issues?yes

Does your stereo have a "sub" output? If so, can you try the "rear" output instead for testing?yes

Can you try different RCA's?did and the prob still happens

Can you try another amp? Buy a cheapo at Walmart...test with it if you dont have any friends to help out.they do but its a 2ohm stable

Can you bypass the 2nd battery and run amp from main battery?i could try this

These are just some brainstorming questions.... Many of them you would want a meter for. I bought mine at Walmart for $20 about 2 weeks ago.

Personally I think its a voltage issue somewhere, or an ohm issue. If your amp is getting hot and/or its shutting off at higher volumes only...you could be over driving the amp with a low ohm rating. The amp would shut itself down to prevent damage to itself. thanks for the help

I do not think you have any wires crossed, but it doesnt ever hurt to make sure anyway.

Ohh...and write everything you do down somewhere. Everytime you troubleshoot write down what you did, so you know what you did and do not do it multiple times. Start with the easy stuff first. Get the meter, do your basic checks with it and write the numbers down. If they are good, then move on.

You have to remember that noone here knows your audio knowledge, so some (like myself) will start with the very basics and not ASSUME you did something. You wouldnt believe how many computers I have fixed because a customer plugged it into a surge protector....then plugged the surge protector into itself. They wondered why there was no power...... yes...... it happens more then you know...
thanks

 
Well, here's one that gets even the non-noobs. I was messing with my batts a couple weeks ago, had to disconnect the front to rear run from the front batt. got done, and forgot to reconnect //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/redface.gif.62fdbfe1a101588a808c4cff71bcb942.gif . Everything ran for a couple hours on my 2 blue tops, then the bass started cutting out, and all kinds of crazy shi t. Came back to it a couple days later, thought about it, popped the hood and bam! found it. Also, "clipping" will not cause your amp to go into protect by itself, the result of clipping with enough power... i.e. blown/locked/burnt sub can cause the amp to go into protect. I think that you may have a bad amp. whether it went bad from you , or was already doesnt matter. However if you dont have the alt-batt part of the big 3 done, the rest of it doesnt matter, and voltage drops may have killed it, it is a 2.2 kwatt amp after all, and needs a decent electrical to supply it, or bad things can and will happen. Find a known good amp and do a swap, after getting the dmm and checking the sub for shorts.
can you explain this a little better so i can check this out

 
can you explain this a little better so i can check this out
I dont know what I need to break down further, but here goes a try.

Check all your power wiring, make sure it is hooked up. Buy the DMM, check the coils on the sub. Go to a friend and do a swap with a known good amp, your amp to his car and his amp to yours. After all that, I think that your amp went bad due to low voltage( most likely).

You never stated what impedance your sub is.. d1, d2, or d4?

If you were closer, I could help you, but you and I are 4 hours apart, so thats not practical when you have so many people on this board much more local to you.

 
Damm near all possible problems have been mentioned here already, but I have heard of companies accidentally mislabeling the speaker terminals on a sub. Hook a 9volt battery to each terminal and see if the sub moves the same way for each coil. If it does then this is not your problem but if it moves opposite directions swap a positive and a negative on one terminal.

 
Damm near all possible problems have been mentioned here already, but I have heard of companies accidentally mislabeling the speaker terminals on a sub. Hook a 9volt battery to each terminal and see if the sub moves the same way for each coil. If it does then this is not your problem but if it moves opposite directions swap a positive and a negative on one terminal.
Normally, I would agree with you, in this case though no. He stated it was "loud as balls" after the initial rca switch. If coils were mislabeled, and they were fighting each other, he would have little to no output, and smoke within a very short time. I am still curious as to what impedance sub he has. I hope he didnt fall in to the " go ahead, run it at .5 ohm" trap. That, mixed with a poor electrical= smoked amp.

 
So your running a system that consists of at least 2200w with two batteries...and you don't even own a multimeter? You sir, fail at this hobby. Go spend the $5 on a cheap dmm and quit wasting everyones time. They can't magically tell you whats wrong, there's plenty of things you could test if you would spend that 5 bucks.

 
Normally, I would agree with you, in this case though no. He stated it was "loud as balls" after the initial rca switch. If coils were mislabeled, and they were fighting each other, he would have little to no output, and smoke within a very short time. I am still curious as to what impedance sub he has. I hope he didnt fall in to the " go ahead, run it at .5 ohm" trap. That, mixed with a poor electrical= smoked amp.
well, nothing has smoked, the amp is not even warm. sub neither. and how is it poor electrical?

 
well, nothing has smoked, the amp is not even warm. sub neither. and how is it poor electrical?
From what you said of your system, and the fact that your big 3 is not complete, I would say your electrical is poor for that amp.

What impedance sub do you have??????????? d1,d2,d4?

 
Seeing how it worked properly when you got to school makes me think that's it's a voltage problem because the alt was charging the batt all the way to your school. I would suggest trying to put your batt or batts on a charger for a while and see what happens if you dont have one autozone will do it for free, and finishing the big 3 is very vital espessially the wire from the alt to the + battery post and also get a DMM it would really help


I agree with this guy

 
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