STILL F***ing up. Im literally going to light my sh** on fire!!!

[themgators511 10+ year member]

I had the same exact problem that your having //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif It was neither the amp nore the subs or anything else was bad it was the electrical

 

[cx-7heaven 10+ year member]

ok, but when i did the alt to bat, it drained my bat. will try again tho.so, i have to put a wire from the neg on the bat to the neg of the amp, instead of the chassis? the bat DOES have a run of 0 gauge coming from the + and - of the bat under than hood. so thats done. does the bat in the back have to grounded? thanks for the help btw

Do not ground the rear batt to the car. Only ground the gear you have to the rear batt. This may not fix your issues with this particular amp, as the amp itself may be bad now. You really need to buy a dmm and check your voltage drop. Also, it should not drain your batt to finish the big 3, unless something is hooked up wrong. make sure you are going from the positive output of th alt to the positive of your front batt. The pos output of your alt will have a fairly thick~4gauge or so~ wire coming from the alt, also it will be insulated from the body of the alt with a thick plastic piece of some kind. Leave that stock wire on the alt, and add your new 0 guage wire to it using a ring terminal. the run it straight to the fron batt positive, and get a good tight connection.

 

[Wingman0121 10+ year member]

I'm not reading all the posts but did you try to swap the amp with something else and see if it does the same? Faulty/failed components in your hardware(such as bad resistor/cap in amps or headunits) can cause more strange problems than I care to type out.

As far as power cables... you don't need a negative power cable running from your front battery(yet), because your car chassis can easily take the current load from one Audioque 2200. People only run multiple runs of power wires if they have extreme levels of power(like over 4000 watts RMS), a poor chassis or lack of it(such as vehicles sitting on tubular frames) or they're in bassrace or some type of SPL league and are only allowed to have one or two batteries in the vehicle. Thick power wires can cause interference with sensitive electronics in the car so do keep them away from all the modules and chips. I suppose it doesn't hurt to have more runs of power wires but it'll definitely hurt your wallet, weigh down your car and you'll have to find places to hide it.

Also you're definitely doing something wrong if you upgraded the wires from the alt to your battery and ended up draining it. Take some pictures and let us see your setup, because Jesus isn't gonna help you install a stereo.

 

[Blove1991 10+ year member]

I'm not reading all the posts but did you try to swap the amp with something else and see if it does the same? Faulty/failed components in your hardware(such as bad resistor/cap in amps or headunits) can cause more strange problems than I care to type out.
As far as power cables... you don't need a negative power cable running from your front battery(yet), because your car chassis can easily take the current load from one Audioque 2200. People only run multiple runs of power wires if they have extreme levels of power(like over 4000 watts RMS), a poor chassis or lack of it(such as vehicles sitting on tubular frames) or they're in bassrace or some type of SPL league and are only allowed to have one or two batteries in the vehicle. Thick power wires can cause interference with sensitive electronics in the car so do keep them away from all the modules and chips. I suppose it doesn't hurt to have more runs of power wires but it'll definitely hurt your wallet, weigh down your car and you'll have to find places to hide it.

Also you're definitely doing something wrong if you upgraded the wires from the alt to your battery and ended up draining it. Take some pictures and let us see your setup, because Jesus isn't gonna help you install a stereo.

Jesus has always installed de stereoz for me //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

If you feel comfortable enough and the amp is not under warranty, and/or will not effect the warranty, then pull the back off of the amp and look everything over.

 

[Blove1991 10+ year member]

Does the amp stay on if you just leave it at low volume or does it eventually cut off?

Unplug the RCA's and the sub (speaker wires) from the amp, and power on. It is goes into protect after just sitting for a bit, then it would seem to be your amp. (Unless bad ground, electrical problem)

If it stays on plug in your RCA's first and see what it does, if nothing then plug in your speaker wires next.

If RCA's push it into protect then it is something with your RCA's or HU, and if the sub pushes it into protect then it has something to do with your wiring of the sub or the sub could possibly grounded out.

 

[gotgohan 10+ year member]

I may have skipped a few pages, but just so I can put my .02 in heres what I would check and make sure matches:

The impendance of you're amp and then the impendance of you're subwoofer make sure the sub's aren't asking for too much power because this is a real common mistake and will put amp into protection.

If you have HPF turn that because I had an integra and put a 4 channel to 2 12" kickers and it would go into protect everytime I try to jam out, and then I learned what HPF is then vuala it stopped short circuiting.

Are you're wires fit for the rating of the amp (ex: 4 gauge = 800-900 watts, 6-8 gauge = 500-700 watts; btw this is not real numbers i am guessing) Anyway if you don't have high enough rated wiring the amp will kick off from lack of amps/volts when you put load on it.

I can't think of anything else but this is all from personal experience of failing amps, if its already been covered, then whatever I tried to help lol

 

[themgators511 10+ year member]

Did you ever get that DMM? Or find out the problem?