speaker rms power handling after bandpassed

[duztin]

Polyfill?... sorry you are lost... it's ok man ... here is a video to watch...

wow that is pretty cool. Ill have to buy some of that and cut to fit, thanks for the video! I will also be removing the small amount of polyfill i put behind my fronts as to not cause a terrible smell when water leaks down in the future =P. I had heard that about polyfil in the doors before but didnt have any ideas for using anything else.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

wow that is pretty cool. Ill have to buy some of that and cut to fit, thanks for the video! I will also be removing the small amount of polyfill i put behind my fronts as to not cause a terrible smell when water leaks down in the future =P. I had heard that about polyfil in the doors before but didnt have any ideas for using anything else.

Lose ALL your polyfill and seal/deaden the doors and I believe you'll be golden... then you can set your HPF to YOUR listening taste to blend it all together... and changing your 4 channel to 2 channel bridged will be a GOOD thing... lots of headroom... but that is another subject entirely... deaden your doors and THEN we can really explore your possibilities...

 

[duztin]

That is why a 40$ set of coax can sound better than a $200 set of components... ^^^^^... installation is everything for midbass...Polyfill has NO place in your doors BTW... as far as bridging your amp goes... let's take one step at a time...

i appreciate your idea for deadening the front door, but whats with the last comment about bridging the fronts? I will never want/need to do this to these specific fronts being they are plenty loud enough each connected to individual channels. My fronts are 4 ohms and this 4 channel amp is designed for 4 ohms per channel. When bridging speakers, the amp will see more resistance, which it is not designed for. Not to say it wouldnt work, it is just not necessary.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

I did mine with 4" aluminum tape and 1/8" Medite... to close the holes... then I painted on GTmat Liquidamp to deaden/seal it all... that is a budget option... I also used Plasticote on the interior door skin to add mass as well... works great... Good luck!..

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

i appreciate your idea for deadening the front door, but whats with the last comment about bridging the fronts? I will never want/need to do this to these specific fronts being they are plenty loud enough each connected to individual channels. My fronts are 4 ohms and this 4 channel amp is designed for 4 ohms per channel. When bridging speakers, the amp will see more resistance, which it is not designed for. Not to say it wouldnt work, it is just not necessary.

You are full of misconceptions my friend... just do the doors right and you'll be happy... It's OK... I've got +25 years in this particular hobby and I'm still learning...

 

[duztin]

I did mine with 4" aluminum tape and 1/8" Medite... to seal them... then I painted on GTmat Liquidamp to deaden/seal it all... that is a budget option... I also used Plasticote on the interior door skin to add mass as well... works great... Good luck!..

that looks very well constructed! Ill have to do something like that for myself. out of curiosity, do you have anything behind the door speakers?

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

that looks very well constructed! Ill have to do something like that for myself. out of curiosity, do you have anything behind the door speakers?

No.. nothing there and I feel it is only another thing to eat up my money for little result... I NEVER POLYFILL ANYTHING BTW... this is my setup... it can play any genre well and POUND when called upon...

Deadening WILL open up a whole new world for you...

It's often the most overlooked aspect of the install but one of the most important...

 

[duztin]

No.. nothing there and I feel it is only another thing to eat up my money for little result... I NEVER POLYFILL ANYTHING BTW... this is my setup... it can play any genre well and POUND when called upon...

Deadening WILL open up a whole new world for you...

It's often the most overlooked aspect of the install but one of the most important...

I find it very interesting that a handful of websites talking about audio installations never really mention deadening the doors like this. I will definitely have to do this for my front and rear access cab doors to see if i can hear the difference. I really appreciate your help on this subject! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/suave.gif.858fc102f7646e678ee8af7e1fbc41d1.gif

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

I find it very interesting that a handful of websites talking about audio installations never really mention deadening the doors like this. I will definitely have to do this for my front and rear access cab doors to see if i can hear the difference. I really appreciate your help on this subject! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/suave.gif.858fc102f7646e678ee8af7e1fbc41d1.gif

I'm glad you are taking this advice... I was on the fence at first as to whether to even give it as you are really set on some "ideas" you have... there IS more to be discussed about your "ideas" but you are seemingly on the right track now... Good luck!..

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

i appreciate your idea for deadening the front door, but whats with the last comment about bridging the fronts? I will never want/need to do this to these specific fronts being they are plenty loud enough each connected to individual channels. My fronts are 4 ohms and this 4 channel amp is designed for 4 ohms per channel. When bridging speakers, the amp will see more resistance, which it is not designed for. Not to say it wouldnt work, it is just not necessary.

Never say never... this IS car audio... LOL!.. BTW if this takes me awhile to type it is because I am a stroke survivor... Let's get back on point here... I see so much fail in what you said... don't get offended as I am only tryin' to help... OK?.. when you bridge an amplifier into a lower nominal impedance load it generally makes MORE power and since... (I'm assuming you have 4 ohms per channel)... when you BRIDGE a 4 channel amp into a 2 channel amp with the same nominal 4 ohm impedance load it tries to Quadruple the power (a good amp will at least come close)... therefore if you have a 40 x 4 amp @ 4 ohms and bridge to 2 channel @ 4 ohms, changing nothing but only bridging it... it will try to deliver 160 x 2... having more power available is a GOOD thing... there will be more available power to your fronts... that should equate to more cone control... A/C current remember?.. thermal handling is a consideration but most people cannot stand something that screams at them for very long... so you'll either smell coils or turn it down anyways... find a x-over point that blends it all together and while you blend the highs with the sub and I'll bet it does not even take a lot of power to match your sub output... if you end up at that point where it it not loud enough with the doors done AND the amp bridged... then look at better drivers... but lose the rear speakers (especially for midbass)... who wants the snare drum in the backseat and the kick drum on the dash... it's an oversimplification but the best analogy I could come up with... and other members should add to/correct anything I've misstated... my mental acuity is not what it used to be...

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

boomin, this is frustrating answering your questions because i have already listed that I have a 10" JL subwoofer playing up to 80hz. I plan on using these earthquakes mainly for the 80hz-125hz range, but will prob have them play up to 200hz (havnt decided yet). After looking at the spec of them, i had remembered they were a maximum of 400hz frequency response, but the manufacturer actually lists 35-1000hz. for front composite speakers, i will either HPF cross them at 100hz or where the earthquakes leave off at 200hz. Ill have to play around to see what sounds the best.

Your not using those Earthquake sws-6.5x as midbass/mini subs are you?

I asked if you had the earthquakes, not the JL subs. Guess you overlapped that tho huh. Not difficult at all.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

I will have to try putting more polyfill in the front door behind my 6x9 composite speakers (as to not be in the way of the window sliding down). I have no need to bridge my 4 channel amp since i am running 150 watt RMS fronts with 150 watts RMA amp per channel. The fronts are plenty loud enough (almost too loud), they just lack in the midbass department. I already have these 6.5 sub/midbass speakers for the rear, so i am going to install/use them either way =P
they were $95 and more of a hastle to just return them. Id rather just use them and see the difference in sound. Ill post tomorrow after givin em a listen.

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[duztin]

lol.. im new to car audio so i dont really feel that bad about being wrong //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gif

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Ya think...

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

I'll apologize... I got reamed on SMD once and it left a bad taste... still does... try to see our viewpoint but also try it how you want... advice shouldn't cause bad feelings...