Going Active, replacing mids......suggestions?

slikrider20
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Right now, I have an 80PRS feeding a JL 300/2 with some SSA Evil Mids and Morel Tempo Tweets. I LOVE the tweets. But the mids are less than impressive.

So, i've decided I might as well take advantage of the deck finally and go active. Pretty decided on a Zapco ST-4XSQ for my amp.

Anyways, I've done some searching and can't really come up with a decisive answer for mids. I'm looking to spend $100-$150ish on the pair for mids. I'd like something that can play down to 40 or 50hz without crackling which is what my Evil's do until I EQ out 50hz to like -5. I also need something with a mounting depth of 2.5-3", preferably closer to 2.5. A lot of people recommend Peerless SLS mids but they are too deep for my application.

These are the ones I'm looking at now, CL-6MSUB - CDT Audio 6.5" Extended Bass Sub Driver, but wasn't sure if anyone had better idea's that fit my application. Thanks in advance.

 
Good evening. I love what you've got going on and I can help fill the equipment needs. The Zapco is on the Rubyserv site now: ST-4X SQ

For the mids I need to know more about your application. Are you using factory speaker locations and looking to keep the appearance stock?

 
The factory mounts were for 5.25s, so I ditched those and made my own mdf rings. Doors are also both completely deadend.

As long as the door panel can get back on and it appears stock from the outside of the panel, I'm happy.

 
The factory mounts were for 5.25s, so I ditched those and made my own mdf rings. Doors are also both completely deadend.
As long as the door panel can get back on and it appears stock from the outside of the panel, I'm happy.
Got it. What is the year, make and model of the vehicle?

 
all this hype over those mids is pretty undeserved.

I'd bridge that 4 channel into 2 channel mode for mids and keep the JL for tweets alone. More power/headroom always sounds much better and detailed.

Your sub stage should be able to cover 40 and 50hz and a bit of 60hz easily you should not be taxing the mids to go that low.

 
Considerations:

The speaker grille opening is designed to accommodate a smaller diameter speaker than what you're running, so a larger diameter cone may result in more sound getting trapped and reverberating behind the panel.

Mounting depth and cutout diameter

Sensitivity

Midrange detail and extension to blend well with your tweeters

Have you installed FAST Rings?

fast-rings-speaker_kits-4_1_1.jpg


This is a great way to deal with the issue of sounding bouncing around between the metal of the door and the panel above it. We have plenty of the 6.5" kits in stock.

An outstanding 6.5" midbass driver pair I have to recommend is CDT CW-6MB.2. Here it is installed into a 2015 Mustang.

Mounting depth 2.91"

cutout diameter 5.6"

Designed to play down to 50 Hz in doors

sensitivity 87.8 dB

2015-Up-Ford-Mustang-cw6mb2-1.jpg


This isn't all I have to show you, but it's the first recommendation.

 
2002 Pontiac Grand Prix Gt 2 door
i have 04 4 door gtp.. i do like the cdt's but agree with jeff my sq speakers don't play low at all i have to cross the way to high but sub makes up for anything below 60hz anyway.. i just wish my speakers would play 80hz lol..

 
Im just running the 2 channel JL on them with the morel crossovers. I originally bought the morel tempo 5 set but swapped to 5.25s I'm wondering if I would be better off getting a quality 5.25 and using the stock mounts since I want to keep it stockish?

It's not that I need them to play super low, I just want that good punchy midbass from the fronts and I really get none of that with the evils.

 
Im just running the 2 channel JL on them with the morel crossovers. I originally bought the morel tempo 5 set but swapped to 5.25s I'm wondering if I would be better off getting a quality 5.25 and using the stock mounts since I want to keep it stockish?
It's not that I need them to play super low, I just want that good punchy midbass from the fronts and I really get none of that with the evils.
thats mainly poor listening environment. punchy midbass is 63hz to 200hz. It shouldnt play 63 strong either, your sub should play up to that and there's a blend between sub and midbass.

In no way should your mid play down below 60 unless you want sh*t output and power handling. You can do a hybrid 3 way active front instead with 5.25 mids in the stock location and 6.5 inch dedicated pure midbass in the kick panels. You'll need an active 4 channel along with your 2 channel.

There is also nothing you can do speaker swap wise can fight against a poor listening environment. You need to not only deaden but you need turn the door into a speaker enclosure with mass loaded vinyl along with absorption material to deal with the rear wave if you plan to keep it 2 way front.

going back down to 5.25 or keeping the door look stock wont do you any favors either.

 
Good insight. I guess I'm not trying to drastically change the sound, my dcon has no trouble what soever playing whatever I throw at it, just wanted to get a little more out of mids without getting to extravagant. My buddy has some cdts in his car off of far less power and they are much more punchy than mine, so I will have to look into those.

 
Good insight. I guess I'm not trying to drastically change the sound, my dcon has no trouble what soever playing whatever I throw at it, just wanted to get a little more out of mids without getting to extravagant. My buddy has some cdts in his car off of far less power and they are much more punchy than mine, so I will have to look into those.
might have to look into his car as well. Whatever sounds good in his car can easily sound like utter sh*t in your car. Main point to get a cross is the listening and speaker environment.

 
Im just running the 2 channel JL on them with the morel crossovers. I originally bought the morel tempo 5 set but swapped to 5.25s I'm wondering if I would be better off getting a quality 5.25 and using the stock mounts since I want to keep it stockish?
It's not that I need them to play super low, I just want that good punchy midbass from the fronts and I really get none of that with the evils.
What are your crossover settings for sub LPF and midbass HPF?

 
I'm always tinkering with settings, but I think right now I have the fronts high passed at 63hz and the sub at 80hz. 6db/octave slope for both.

 
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