speaker rms power handling after bandpassed

[duztin]

A rear 6.5 midbass speaker to fill the bass between my sub and front speakers (technically considered a subwoofer, but doesnt need to be in a sealed/ported box) is rated 200 watts maximum with 100 watts rms (stable/continuous power handling). the frequency response is 35hz-400hz. I plan on band passing (high pass at 80hz and low pass filter at 160hz) using head unit for high pass and amp for low pass. will the speaker handle more than 100 watts of stable power if only playing a shorter frequency range than what the speaker was designed for? I assume the power handling will probably be the same, just a noob question that i was wondering.

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[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Yup...the rms won't change no matter how many freq you send to it.

 

[duztin]

dang.. that is unfortunate. i know the rms stable power listed is to protect the speaker from getting too hot and damaging itself, but i figured it wouldnt get as hot if it was playing a shorter range of frequencies. I know it would get hot easier pushing anything below 80hz for the sub bass frequencies, but i guess it wouldnt matter either way. Ill have to get out the ol' clamp meter and multimeter to measure volts/amps while playing a 100hz sine wave at 2/3 head unit volume. I alrdy had my front composite speakers measured and set at 150 watts (rms rating for fronts) and wanted to just match the rears i had for convenience //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Think you may be wasting your time doing what your wanting to do. Freq don't hurt speakers....heat/clipping/distortion does.

Wait...are you trying to set your gains based on freq being sent to the speakers? I don't think that's right. In fact, that is def not right. Gains are set to match your HU voltage.

 

[duztin]

I think you are confused lol. So.. i have RCA low power signal coming from my head unit to my amplifier for the rears. From there, i need to turn my head unit volume to 2/3rd volume and connect a multimeter to the amp speaker outputs to measure voltage, while i have a clamp meter around the positive speaker wire to measure amperage. now, i inject a sine wave signal of 100hz for my rears specifically and adjust gain until the voltage multiplied by amperage = around 100 watts.

 

[duztin]

it is not wasting time because i dont want my rear speakers overlapping my subs by playing the same frequencies. it will sound weird and the timing that i hear it will be different since they are in different positions. All i could do was adjust their phase to try to match them in the sub bass, but that still might not do the trick. Id rather just set these rears up for midbass to start the slopes at 80hz and 125hz. with this being said, they will still play sound below 80hz and above 125hz, it will just have less gain as the slope works it's way down.

 

[duztin]

if i was not playing this 100hz sine wave signal, there would be nothing to measure since the amplifier would not be amplifying any sound. I chose 100hz since these midbass rears will be playing 80hz-125hz

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Again...your wasting time trying to figure out the proper freq for your rear speakers. Anybody here can tell you that. But...sounds like your on the right track getting your gain set properly. You don't HAVE to use a clamp meter to get an exact number (rms) to match speakers watt for watt.....it's really unnecessary.

 

[duztin]

im sure anyone else will chime in eventually agreeing that im not wasting my time by setting my MIDBASS speakers to start where my sub left off at 80hz. these midbass speakers have a frequency response of 35hz-400hz which means they will play between those frequencies, but it will not be as loud and clear at their minimum and maximum. I might not even set a low pass filter on them, but i will set a high pass at 80hz. If i had the front and rears all play the same frequencies, the music would sound like crap being they are in different locations and the furthest speaker away from the drivers seat would take longer to reach my ears. my setup isnt anything special, but I at least want a decent sound stage for what it's worth.

 

[duztin]

im not trying to figure out what frequencies my midbass rears are going to play, that has already been decided. My only question was if less heat would be produced within the speaker if using a shorter frequency range than what it was designed for. if the answer to that question was yes, then i would feel comfortable turning up the gain a little more for higher RMS wattage. all in all, i really dont even need to use the multimeter/clamp meter since i could just listen for distortion, but it is more difficult to hear distortion in the bass frequency range than what it would be to listen for distortion on the front speakers.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

[quote name='duztin']im not trying to figure out what frequencies my midbass rears are going to play, that has already been decided. My only question was if less heat would be produced within the speaker if using a shorter frequency range than what it was designed for. if the answer to that question was yes, then i would feel comfortable turning up the gain a little more for higher RMS wattage. all in all, i really dont even need to use the multimeter/clamp meter since i could just listen for distortion, but it is more difficult to hear distortion in the bass frequency range than what it would be to listen for distortion on the front speakers.[/QUOTE]


lol omg your clueless. Go read up on proper amp gain settings. Plenty floating around the internet and also youtube. You obviously think you know what your doing but it's wrong. I've already answered your 1st question above btw...why keep asking it?

See if @audioholic or @Jeffdachef can straighten out this mess.

 

[marc2112 10+ year member]

A rear 6.5 midbass speaker to fill the bass between my sub and front speakers (technically considered a subwoofer, but doesnt need to be in a sealed/ported box) is rated 200 watts maximum with 100 watts rms (stable/continuous power handling). the frequency response is 35hz-400hz. I plan on band passing (high pass at 80hz and low pass filter at 160hz) using head unit for high pass and amp for low pass. will the speaker handle more than 100 watts of stable power if only playing a shorter frequency range than what the speaker was designed for? I assume the power handling will probably be the same, just a noob question that i was wondering.

Please ignore the local idiot. Yes speakers can handle much more power if crossed properly.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Nope. Shouldn't matter. If the rms calls for 100 then it's not gonna increase power handling if you crossed over a certain freq.

 

[duztin]

Please ignore the local idiot. Yes speakers can handle much more power if crossed properly.

Thank you very much for your helpful input! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/graduate.gif.d982460be9f153bb54e5d4cb744f6ae8.gif

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Midbass in the rear is pointless. Midbass is localizable, which is why dedicated midbass is suppose to be in the front stage. Otherwise we'd just let our subs keep pumping out midbass and forgo dedicated midbass altogether.

The advertised frequency response of any given speaker is based on many factors. The manufacturer may say your mids have a freq response all the way down to 35hz (lol btw), but that is entirely install dependent. Don't be a Crutchfield warrior and think you can design the perfect system based on advertised specs. A properly deadened door will often give a much better midbass response with an average speaker than a door with no or poor deadening housing a superior driver, for example.

To answer the OP's original question of will the component set handle more power with a reduced frequency response, that depends. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Most component manufacturers are savvy enough to realize their component mids will go in a car door in an infinite baffle configuration. This means, if they are competent, they are looking at mechanical limits over thermal limits in their speaker. The simple answer is, listen for your mids to reach their mechanical limits, and adjust accordingly.