speaker rms power handling after bandpassed

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Thanks Audioholic....finally someone with real knowledge than me that says backseat midbass is also pointless. Oh ya, breakdown of explanation too.

 

[marc2112 10+ year member]

Thanks Audioholic....finally someone with real knowledge than me that says backseat midbass is also pointless. Oh ya, breakdown of explanation too.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Always room for the ignore list....anybody else?

 

[duztin]

Midbass in the rear is pointless. Midbass is localizable, which is why dedicated midbass is suppose to be in the front stage. Otherwise we'd just let our subs keep pumping out midbass and forgo dedicated midbass altogether.
The advertised frequency response of any given speaker is based on many factors. The manufacturer may say your mids have a freq response all the way down to 35hz (lol btw), but that is entirely install dependent. Don't be a Crutchfield warrior and think you can design the perfect system based on advertised specs. A properly deadened door will often give a much better midbass response with an average speaker than a door with no or poor deadening housing a superior driver, for example.

To answer the OP's original question of will the component set handle more power with a reduced frequency response, that depends. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Most component manufacturers are savvy enough to realize their component mids will go in a car door in an infinite baffle configuration. This means, if they are competent, they are looking at mechanical limits over thermal limits in their speaker. The simple answer is, listen for your mids to reach their mechanical limits, and adjust accordingly.

Technically the speakers are subwoofers, but i want to use them from 80hz up to maybe 160hz, havnt decided yet. The reason i am installing these is so that my sub isnt trying to play anything hard above 80hz even though it's manufacturer specs say it has a frequency response up to 250hz. since i only have a single sub, i want it specifically for the bass notes below 80hz. ive tried turning the LPF for my sub up to 125hz and it just doesnt sound right in that higher range.

for the 35hz laugh, i agree that a 6.5 shouldnt be playing frequencies that low, but if you dont believe me look up earthquake sws-6.5x

These are cheap speakers but i want to utilize my 3/4 channels on my amplifier used for the front speakers and also fill the empty holes in my rear doors on my truck. i use a separate mono amp for the 10" sub.

You are totally right on rears not being needed, but it is more of a preference than anything

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

Your not using those Earthquake sws-6.5x as midbass/mini subs are you?

 

[duztin]

boomin, this is frustrating answering your questions because i have already listed that I have a 10" JL subwoofer playing up to 80hz. I plan on using these earthquakes mainly for the 80hz-125hz range, but will prob have them play up to 200hz (havnt decided yet). After looking at the spec of them, i had remembered they were a maximum of 400hz frequency response, but the manufacturer actually lists 35-1000hz. for front composite speakers, i will either HPF cross them at 100hz or where the earthquakes leave off at 200hz. Ill have to play around to see what sounds the best.

 

[duztin]

you ask that as if it is a bad idea? i mean.. they are classified as *subwoofers*, so ya.. i planned on using them to mainly cover the bass from 80hz

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

I love a good meme... that' a pretty good one BTW... I do agree with those who say to keep the midbass up front tho... it Can be localized too easily detracting from the overall quality of the listening experience... your power handling can be increased by raising the X-Over point and losing information, but ... WHY?.. IDK... different strokes for different folks, I guess?

 

[duztin]

my system sounds perfectly fine with my composite fronts and single 10" sub currently, but id rather cross the sub down from 100hz to 80hz and have these earthquakes fill in from 80hz. a subwoofer will struggle more if you are trying to play up to 125hz while thumpin anything below 80hz at full handling capacity. the fronts just arent sounding impressive in the midbass range, so that is mainly why i will be using these earthquakes in the rear.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

Mine had that same sonic "hole" in the response... but treating and sealing the doors did wonders... I now cross over my mids at 70 hz and my sub at 50 hz... that might help?

 

[duztin]

i was never (not a single time) arguing that midbass wouldnt be better in the front. You are right, this has been covered and i have agreed to the above. I have already installed my 6x9 composites in the front (which have very ****** midbass response below 125hz). I am not going to buy a separate set up 6x9's to replace those. All i am doing now is filling the empty gap in my rear access doors (tacoma truck) and also utilize the empty 2 channels in my 4 channel amp feeding my fronts. My system would sound *good enough* without any rear speakers whatsoever, but I have decided that I want to fill in the 80hz-125hz range a little better so i bought rear 6.5 speakers designed to fill in that frequency response better. All i was asking, and all i wanted to know was if speakers could continuously handle more wattage than the manufacturers RMS wattage spec if i was using a shorter frequency range than what the speaker was designed to output. Marc and audio answered my specific question. Audio gave a more detailed explanation which makes sense. Who knows if the manufacturer ran the spec based on heat or the hardware specifically (spider holding the voicecoil might tear/etc). So ya.. i like that answer and it makes perfect sense. So apparently my original question can only be answered based on how the manufacturer of the speaker tested the product to spec the rms wattage.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

OK... you bought them, so you're going to use them... fine... you say your midbass su*ks in front?..consider this as well... for the midbass to shine ... I'm assuming you are hard to please in this regard?.. I am as well BTW... I'll wager that sealing off the front doors and deadening them along with bridging your 4 channel amp to 2 channels will probably be the result you are looking for... unless this is already done, you'll lose EXACTLY the frequencies you are trying to find...

 

[duztin]

OK... you bought them, so you're going to use them... fine... you say your midbass su*ks in front?..consider this as well... for the midbass to shine ... I'm assuming you are hard to please in this regard?.. I am as well BTW... I'll wager that sealing off the front doors and deadening them along with bridging your 4 channel amp to 2 channels will probably be the result you are looking for... unless this is already done, you'll lose EXACTLY the frequencies you are trying to find...

I will have to try putting more polyfill in the front door behind my 6x9 composite speakers (as to not be in the way of the window sliding down). I have no need to bridge my 4 channel amp since i am running 150 watt RMS fronts with 150 watts RMA amp per channel. The fronts are plenty loud enough (almost too loud), they just lack in the midbass department. I already have these 6.5 sub/midbass speakers for the rear, so i am going to install/use them either way =P

they were $95 and more of a hastle to just return them. Id rather just use them and see the difference in sound. Ill post tomorrow after givin em a listen.

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

I will have to try putting more polyfill in the front door behind my 6x9 composite speakers (as to not be in the way of the window sliding down). I have no need to bridge my 4 channel amp since i am running 150 watt RMS fronts with 150 watts RMA amp per channel. The fronts are plenty loud enough (almost too loud), they just lack in the midbass department. I already have these 6.5 sub/midbass speakers for the rear, so i am going to install/use them either way =P
they were $95 and more of a hastle to just return them. Id rather just use them and see the difference in sound. Ill post tomorrow after givin em a listen.

Polyfill?... sorry you are lost... it's ok man ... here is a video to watch...



THIS will bring your midbass to life...

 

[shredder1 10+ year member]

That is why a 40$ set of coax can sound better than a $200 set of components... ^^^^^... installation is everything for midbass...Polyfill has NO place in your doors BTW... as far as bridging your amp goes... let's take one step at a time...