Sound Deadening with weight in mind

subyman
10+ year member

The Dude
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I own a 2000 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS coupe and the thing I really like about the car is that it is lightweight, agile, and fun to drive. I've done moderate suspension upgrades to it and use it for spirited driving quite often. I am in the process of putting in some new speakers and want to give them a proper install. In the past I would lay thick layers of sound deadening on the doors, do the usual tricks, and call it a day. However, I don't want to add a bunch of weight to this guy.

What would you guys suggest doing to the doors to get the maximum amount of deadening for the least amount of weight added?

I checked out the sound deadening and you thread. I will be doing the following:

Egg crate foam

Clay around baffle

cover holes with sheet metal or plexi

Some sort of sound deadening

I guess my main question is how much would you say a layer of sound deadening on a door weighs? I don't want to add more than ~5 pounds to each door. Any other suggests are greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys

 
bed liner doing a better job than say dynamat extreme installed right?

your nuts

lighter sure better for noise and vibration no way

you can do a door for around 5-6lbs id say max so if that fits your weight requirments then you will be fine m8

 
Just use one layer of good stuff. Cascade, Damplifier pro or Dynamat extreme.

You need to commit to car audioz and stop trying to save 10 pounds.

 
I guess my main question is how much would you say a layer of sound deadening on a door weighs? I don't want to add more than ~5 pounds to each door. Any other suggests are greatly appreciated.

Thanks guys
I covered my truck doors in RAAMmat. A 62 square foot roll weighs about 25 pounds. I used about 20-25 square feet per door, double layering most of it. That means I put around 10 pounds worth of deadener on each door.

Single layered, with a smaller door, you'll probably use right around 5 pounds //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 
Properly deaden your doors... you won't notice 20 pounds distributed evenly left/right and its pretty much center front/rear.

Now 100lbs in your trunk with a sub box + amp.. That's noticeable.

 
Just use one layer of good stuff. Cascade, Damplifier pro or Dynamat extreme.
You need to commit to car audioz and stop trying to save 10 pounds.
Guys like me die over 10lbs in the car //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Thanks for the help everyone. I will order about 30-40sqft and see what that does me.

Brand suggestions for getting the most deadening for the least weight? I'm guessing I want to stay away from tar?

 
Stay away from the bed liner. For sound deadening purposes it is worthless.

It does an awesome job at protection, but squart for vibration reduction.

Want proof?

Do a quick test.

Tap on the bed of a truck that has Line-x or Rhino Liner sprayed in and see how much it resonante.. Quite a bit!

If you are looking to save weight, your best bet is to go with a high quality vibration damper in select areas of the car. Be strategic about it.

Don at SDS suggests that 25% coverage is more than needed. This is true if trying to reduce resonance, but it is also car and goal specific. Your magic number might be 25% or it migh be 42%.

If you are sold on doing 100% coverage (a solid layer throughout the cars interior) you can go with a light weight product. Raammat bxt is pretty light.

Cascase made a very light damper. We have something called Damplifier Lite that will fit the bill as well.

Either way, reduce resonance, then go with a barrier on top of that.

The problem with barriers is that they are heavy.

Exactly the opposite of what you are trying to use.

So, find your self some good recycle organic fiber material. LIke a very dnese jute, or recylce cotton. We sell a thermal insulator called Heat Wave Pro that does a great job with select frequencies. It is light weight and will do a good job at reducing airborne noise (for the weight that is).

Not saying you have you use Second Skin, as there are a few good brands out there that are light weight an affordable. But either way, stay away from the bed liners.

Hope that helps!

ANT

http://www.secondskinaudio.com

 
Stay away from the bed liner. For sound deadening purposes it is worthless.It does an awesome job at protection, but squart for vibration reduction.

Want proof?

Do a quick test.

Tap on the bed of a truck that has Line-x or Rhino Liner sprayed in and see how much it resonante.. Quite a bit!

If you are looking to save weight, your best bet is to go with a high quality vibration damper in select areas of the car. Be strategic about it.

Don at SDS suggests that 25% coverage is more than needed. This is true if trying to reduce resonance, but it is also car and goal specific. Your magic number might be 25% or it migh be 42%.

If you are sold on doing 100% coverage (a solid layer throughout the cars interior) you can go with a light weight product. Raammat bxt is pretty light.

Cascase made a very light damper. We have something called Damplifier Lite that will fit the bill as well.

Either way, reduce resonance, then go with a barrier on top of that.

The problem with barriers is that they are heavy.

Exactly the opposite of what you are trying to use.

So, find your self some good recycle organic fiber material. LIke a very dnese jute, or recylce cotton. We sell a thermal insulator called Heat Wave Pro that does a great job with select frequencies. It is light weight and will do a good job at reducing airborne noise (for the weight that is).

Not saying you have you use Second Skin, as there are a few good brands out there that are light weight an affordable. But either way, stay away from the bed liners.

Hope that helps!

ANT

http://www.secondskinaudio.com

did the test on my 100% bedlinered jimmy and it rattles less than before... hmm.....

 
peel n seal at lowes. its same thing as dynomat. its only 14 bucks per 12 sq ft roll. less than half price of dynomat

Peel and seal is nothing close to the same thing as Dynamat (spelled with an "A" not and "O")

The foil on Dynamat extreme is 200% thicker than the foil on Peel and seal, it is also a stronger foil, not a soft foil like P&S. Soft foil does nothing for constraining the adhesive.

The adhesive on P&S is asphalt, which melts at 180 degrees, and is toxic.

The adhesive on Dynamat Extreme is butyl based, non toxic, and set to a specific gravity that is going to reduce vibration in a car, not adhere to a roof.

The suggestion of P&S in a car is a very uninformed one and could lead to disaster. Not everyon has bad luck with P&S, but there are enough cases out there to warrant considerable caution when making the claim that it is the same as DynAmat.

ANT

 
did the test on my 100% bedlinered jimmy and it rattles less than before... hmm.....

Umm.. Rattles?

Rattles occur when 2 panels connect with one another and make noise.

Vibrations occur when a single panel resonates without touching another panel.

I think what you mean is that is vibrated less than before.

I don't mean to sound brash, but duct tape or elmers glue would make it vibrate less than before.

Try using a real vibration damper and run the same test. The difference is night and day! like knocking on solid led or rubber.

For the money you pay on a professional 2 part polyurethane system it is not worth the small amount of vibration reduction you get.

Protection? Sure. the stuff is awesome! No doubt.

Hardly a vibration damper though.

ANT

 
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