Sound Deadening with weight in mind

[galacticmonkey 5,000+ posts]

Makes no sense?!?

ANT

Apparently you people get too hung on these "facts". //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/fyi.gif.9f1f679348da7204ce960cfc74bca8e0.gif

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

the guy with issues with dynamat did not install it right prob did not use a roller or use solvent to clean the surface right so it never bonded right and dust and dirt bonded to the glue causing it to not stick and thus it would fold ontop of its own weight and slide around till it was infact a pile of junk under the carpet //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

That's what I thought too, till I read his assertion that his butyl rubber based mat left a pile of 'tar' in his vehicle. Then I concluded he's just a lying troll.
The only Dynamat mat that would leave tar residue would be Dynamat Original, which is clearly not the product pictured.

 

[subyman 10+ year member]

To the people saying I'm a "ricer" for not wanting to add weight... Different strokes for different folks. You like car audio and it is your number one priority, I enjoy tracking my daily driver. No need to get personal, we just like different things.

I haven't made any solid decisions yet. Don and the Second Skin guy have helped quite a bit. Don suggested doing around 4sqft a door in the deadener, a layer of foam for the door card, and clay/butyl around the speaker.

Anyone have any experience with Polyfoam? I found some that is mildew resistant used for out door furniture, really cheap and can be had locally. I got non-drying modeling clay for around 3 bucks for around the speaker. I am still up in the air about the deadener though. While I was out I went by lowes to look at the Peel and Seal just to see what it looked like and they didn't have any. Went by Best Buy and they wanted 100 dollars for the dynamat door kit.

 

[mannana 10+ year member]

need save more pounds~

 

[Anthony Collova 10+ year member]

I would say that 4 feet per door is the least that I would use.

The clay is a good idea provided you can find the stuff with the higher heat rating.

I have been messing around with differnt clays, trying to get it right but I don't know enough about the specific formulation to get it right.

The foam on the back of the panel is good. Did I make that suggestion already?

Maybe thinking of a different thread.

Not much more too it than that though..

Keep us posted with your results.

ANT

 

[oldschoolboomer 10+ year member]

dynamat xtreme is a great product. I have it on the ceiling of my pickup and it has withstood two years and the last 45+days well over 100 degrees.

 

[FJF 10+ year member]

To the people saying I'm a "ricer" for not wanting to add weight... Different strokes for different folks. You like car audio and it is your number one priority, I enjoy tracking my daily driver. No need to get personal, we just like different things.

I know that you're new to the board and aren't familiar with its culture. You see, this is a ricer forum. Calling a (real) car guy a ricer, because he wants to maintain the integrity of his machine isn't just ironic, it's outright hilarious.

Both Rudy and ANT gave you good advice. FWIW, I was very concerned with weight when I installed a system in my Evo. If I were working on the doors, I'd use 2 CLD tiles in the center of the door panel, some less expensive, (butyl-based) lighter product to seal the door, and CCF (foam) between the door card and the skin. That's it.