Sound deadening trunk lid question

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Lol.. its a shame that there is such good information on this topic but most are still too ignorant to actually learn how deadening works. Do not listen to this guy, instead research this site. Welcome to Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown
I'm speaking from experience. I've done my share of deadening.

So goo ahead, 25% may do some good but O well if it doesn't.

25% is for cheap skates

 
I'm speaking from experience. I've done my share of deadening.So goo ahead, 25% may do some good but O well if it doesn't.

25% is for cheap skates
Yea I've found that a cheap pair of skates are easily deadened with about that coverage as well, you are correct. I have my share of deadening experience too there guy, and the first time i did it uninformed i covered 100 percent. terrible results. This guy on the site explains why and it sure makes a hell of a lot of sense for anyone that is willing to read and be informed.

 
What it comes down to is that most of us are using butyl as a "barrier" instead of what it's intended use is for... 25% is all it needs to do it's job, MLV is something that NEEDS 100% coverage, deadener does not - You are right... But in my trunk with a sub firing back - 100% coverage almost acts as a barrier though not as ideal as MLV and helped tremendously as JUST deadening the panels did not yield the results I was looking for, I started out by only doing a little bit as intended & Ended up going all out...

 
To be fair, any amount of deadener will yield results.All i'm saying is that 100% coverage will yield the best results
all 100% coverage is, is an attempt to mass load the panels. my question to you why the hell would you want to mass load with deadener when it weighs maybe a half pound per sq ft, when you could do the same with MLV that weighs in at a touch over a pound per sq ft.

do you know what deadener is actually designed and intended to do? or are you just going of the knowledge you and your buddies think you have with out any actual research on the subject?

and ive got a good bit of experience under my belt wasting deadener, when i was running my tib it was 100% coverage double layer 80 mil. which was a massive waste of time and money, but at the time i did it i was too inexperienced to know better, yes it slowed down flex a bit and did dampen a little bit, but had i done things correctly the results would have been far better.

 
all 100% coverage is, is an attempt to mass load the panels. my question to you why the hell would you want to mass load with deadener when it weighs maybe a half pound per sq ft, when you could do the same with MLV that weighs in at a touch over a pound per sq ft.

do you know what deadener is actually designed and intended to do? or are you just going of the knowledge you and your buddies think you have with out any actual research on the subject?

and ive got a good bit of experience under my belt wasting deadener, when i was running my tib it was 100% coverage double layer 80 mil. which was a massive waste of time and money, but at the time i did it i was too inexperienced to know better, yes it slowed down flex a bit and did dampen a little bit, but had i done things correctly the results would have been far better.
Lol. Ya, I know what deadening materials are and what they are made for.

But, a picture says a thousand words. Here is my deadening job I did to my own vehicle.

Rear deck is finished.

Just scroll through and look at the pictures.

And 100% coverage is to ensure no resonance, and can also be an attempt to create a barrier, though mlv is the right tool for the job.

I wouldn't try to steer someone in the wrong direction. And get your act together, quit accusing people of lack of knowledge. Seems to me you think you know everything yourself.

 
Lol. Ya, I know what deadening materials are and what they are made for.
But, a picture says a thousand words. Here is my deadening job I did to my own vehicle.

Rear deck is finished.

Just scroll through and look at the pictures.

And 100% coverage is to ensure no resonance, and can also be an attempt to create a barrier, though mlv is the right tool for the job.

I wouldn't try to steer someone in the wrong direction. And get your act together, quit accusing people of lack of knowledge. Seems to me you think you know everything yourself.
im far from knowing everything. but i dont like having people waste product when they are not going to get any gains out of it, next time you get your hands on a virgin car, deaden to the 25%, put it back together and test it, then do 100% coverage, i would put money on it that there will be no audible difference between the two.

and yes, we have done that with vehicles, anything past 25% is wasteful.

 
[quote name='calebkhill']@ryanthie; how many sq ft do you have[/QUOTE]

I ordered 40sq ft of AT 80mil. So I have plenty.

And I don't really think using a bit more to be "wasteful" to the guys that have said that. I have an 18" firing up, port firing into the driver side. I want to get it done right. I'll start with the flat areas and add more as needed and maybe a little extra, but I surely won't be wasting anything. I'd rather have too much than not enough. And 40sq ft to do the trunk of a Mazda Protege should be plenty. Like I said, I just want to know I did the best job deadening as I could.
 
I ordered 40sq ft of AT 80mil. So I have plenty.
And I don't really think using a bit more to be "wasteful" to the guys that have said that. I have an 18" firing up, port firing into the driver side. I want to get it done right. I'll start with the flat areas and add more as needed and maybe a little extra, but I surely won't be wasting anything. I'd rather have too much than not enough. And 40sq ft to do the trunk of a Mazda Protege should be plenty. Like I said, I just want to know I did the best job deadening as I could.
40sq ft should be enough to do most of the car correctly. CCF helps get rid of rattles. Deadener helps reduce resonance.

 
40sq ft should be enough to do most of the car correctly. CCF helps get rid of rattles. Deadener helps reduce resonance.
Yes, I plan on doing my doors with what I don't use on the trunk. I don't get any actual visible roof flex that I know of. But when I get the deadener in the trunk, it might. My trunk flex is retarded. Feel like the **** lid is going to fall off

 
I ordered 40sq ft of AT 80mil. So I have plenty.
And I don't really think using a bit more to be "wasteful" to the guys that have said that. I have an 18" firing up, port firing into the driver side. I want to get it done right. I'll start with the flat areas and add more as needed and maybe a little extra, but I surely won't be wasting anything. I'd rather have too much than not enough. And 40sq ft to do the trunk of a Mazda Protege should be plenty. Like I said, I just want to know I did the best job deadening as I could.
With 40sq foot, you can do trunk lid, rear Wells, and both doors 100%.

Probably have some left.

Good call.

 
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ryanthie

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