Sound Deadener: What to expect?

One could assume you just took a shot at the good people at Raamat.
Nah, the people (the man, i guess) are great IME. The product? Meh, not seeing the attraction given the alternatives.

More like a tongue-in-cheek shot at the random slathering of "deadener" on all things that buzz or rattle with little question asking and a lot too much after-support via needless anecdote. In summary; don't use "deadener' until you understand the need for "deadening."

 
where can I get sound alivener? I don't want dead sound.
I have some in stock, ready to ship. Just need your CC, SSN, DOB and ****** orientation to see if you qualify.

But back on topic, the OP asked about midbass response. Many swear that when they apply CLD mat (RAAMmat BXT, Dynamat Xtreme ,etc) to their door panel surface, they get better midbass response. How does this happen exactly? Does "deadener" kill ALL vibration or only a certain portion of the sound spectrum. Can we predict what freqs and how much product is needed to aim better with these products?

What about sealing up the access holes. How can closing them up (even with two flimsy layers of BXT) improve midbass response? Better yet, what is "midbass?"

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif

 
I have some in stock, ready to ship. Just need your CC, SSN, DOB and ****** orientation to see if you qualify.
But back on topic, the OP asked about midbass response. Many swear that when they apply CLD mat (RAAMmat BXT, Dynamat Xtreme ,etc) to their door panel surface, they get better midbass response. How does this happen exactly? Does "deadener" kill ALL vibration or only a certain portion of the sound spectrum. Can we predict what freqs and how much product is needed to aim better with these products?

What about sealing up the access holes. How can closing them up (even with two flimsy layers of BXT) improve midbass response? Better yet, what is "midbass?"

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif
i'm baffled. good questions.

 
But back on topic, the OP asked about midbass response. Many swear that when they apply CLD mat (RAAMmat BXT, Dynamat Xtreme ,etc) to their door panel surface, they get better midbass response. How does this happen exactly? Does "deadener" kill ALL vibration or only a certain portion of the sound spectrum. Can we predict what freqs and how much product is needed to aim better with these products?
You're drifting away from the talking points //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/furious.gif.fc81ca146dbff91fede3ed290dbc4f4c.gif

What about sealing up the access holes. How can closing them up (even with two flimsy layers of BXT) improve midbass response? Better yet, what is "midbass?"

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif
Let's forget about flimsy solutions, but sealing them properly will help isolate the speakers front and back waves form each other. What do I win?

 
Let's forget about flimsy solutions, but sealing them properly will help isolate the speakers front and back waves form each other. What do I win?
You're awarded a half point for pointing out the legitmacy. To get the full point a more detailed response should be given.

Issues: Sealing. Do we really "seal" against the backwave? If there's even a hole the size of a penny, does that consititue a proper seal?

Isolate. We need to isolate to prevent combining which can cause cancellation and/or summation in the FR. But how much of this CLD mat is needed to do this? For ex, if my midbass's play down to 63 hz...knowing the size of that wave, how much (layers, tickness, or mass) is needed to isolate the the two??

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif (am i the only one really happy asking these all-important questions?)

 
i'm baffled. good questions.
Constrained layer damping converts vibration in the sheet metal to innocuous heat. The dependent factors are temperature, consistency of the butylene composite (viscoelasticity - plasticity), thickness and integrity of the constraining layer, etc. Mass is important, however, it's not really a dependent variable as there's not a 1:1 correlation between mass and damping loss.

Now that your brain is numb from the tech jargon, what can we expect from:

RAAMmat with a 2 mil foil that comes wrinkled and is fairly easily ripped (read all the bloody hand warnings above) and is known to have a very "gooey" and inconsistent adhesive. How does this stack up in the aforementioned duty of an effective CLD mat? No testing numbers needed here, just think about it loosely in your mind. Use common sense.

Isn't this what this tread is all about? //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

 
You're awarded a half point for pointing out the legitmacy. To get the full point a more detailed response should be given.
Issues: Sealing. Do we really "seal" against the backwave? If there's even a hole the size of a penny, does that consititue a proper seal?

Isolate. We need to isolate to prevent combining which can cause cancellation and/or summation in the FR. But how much of this CLD mat is needed to do this? For ex, if my midbass's play down to 63 hz...knowing the size of that wave, how much (layers, tickness, or mass) is needed to isolate the the two??

//content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/veryhappy.gif.fec4fed33b4a1279cf10bdd45a039dae.gif (am i the only one really happy asking these all-important questions?)
I don't want points, I want real stuff. I don't seal my access holes with CLD, I build removable fiberglass covers. Now make with the real prizes.

 
Just a note don't mat the bottom of the inside of your doors that is were water drains out.
I was wondering about that but i didnt plan on sealing the bottom where the water drains out i just wanted to know if the water running over the deadener on the outer door skin will loosen the adhesive and/or make it fall off.

Thanks for all the cut warnings too

 
I just wanted to know if the water running over the deadener on the outer door skin will loosen the adhesive and/or make it fall off.
No, if you use a decent butyl product you won't have any problem at all. They use a similar material to protect oil and gas pipelines against corrosion.

 
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