Skar going into protective mode

I received a skar rp 2000.1 on 12/29 played fine for a week starting last week amp had been going into protective mode, manual recommends 0 gauge and 200 amp fuse, I have 4 gauge and 150amp breaker, breaker hasn't tripped once, car must turn off then back on to go back to power, amp wired to one ohm. Is the small 4 gauge and breaker causing this?

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I suppose it's possible (most things are with electronics) but how do u have amp wired to subs?, what ohm etc? u will have to check everything else 1st unless u wanta run bigger wire 1st which may be the problem.. #1 check ground make sure paint is sanded off under gound wire #2 check remote wire maybe it's too small and is coming loose or something.. #3 make sure power wire isn't tight everywhere.. then u can check wires on subs unless someone hear says it's the fuse or power wire size maybe it..

 
I received a skar rp 2000.1 on 12/29 played fine for a week starting last week amp had been going into protective mode, manual recommends 0 gauge and 200 amp fuse, I have 4 gauge and 150amp breaker, breaker hasn't tripped once, car must turn off then back on to go back to power, amp wired to one ohm. Is the small 4 gauge and breaker causing this?

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very possible. you might have voltage starved your amp. Put a multi-meter and measure your voltage drops right at the amp power and ground on your hardest hitting songs. If its going below 12V then there's your problem.

 
very possible. you might have voltage starved your amp. Put a multi-meter and measure your voltage drops right at the amp power and ground on your hardest hitting songs. If its going below 12V then there's your problem.
Ok I'll check it

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Do you have an upgraded battery or anything? That amp is a little much if it is indeed stock electrical and 4g wire
Stock battery, upgraded alternator from stock 150amp to limousine 220a, battery is underneath rear seat. Stock power wire from alternator to battery is 12.6 ft and 2 gauge, from battery to amp is 4-5 feet 4 gauge, I do have 0/2 welding wire I'll swap it out and take off the 150a breaker n put a 250a and fuse

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I suppose it's possible (most things are with electronics) but how do u have amp wired to subs?, what ohm etc? u will have to check everything else 1st unless u wanta run bigger wire 1st which may be the problem.. #1 check ground make sure paint is sanded off under gound wire #2 check remote wire maybe it's too small and is coming loose or something.. #3 make sure power wire isn't tight everywhere.. then u can check wires on subs unless someone hear says it's the fuse or power wire size maybe it..
Remote wire can be too small? I'll sand the ground connection, I used a flathead to remove the paint. I'll run the bigger wire first then troubleshoot the rest, thanks

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Remote wire can be too small? I'll sand the ground connection, I used a flathead to remove the paint. I'll run the bigger wire first then troubleshoot the rest, thanks

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I use 10-12g for my remote wire I live by the saying big is better

 
Remote wire can be too small? I'll sand the ground connection, I used a flathead to remove the paint. I'll run the bigger wire first then troubleshoot the rest, thanks

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No BS. I've been using the same gauge remote wire for years.....it's def not too small.

Have you done the big 3 yet? I did notice you said you had stock wiring still. Do the big 3, replace the 4 gauge with appropriate power/ground wire and see if that solves your issue.

 
No BS. I've been using the same gauge remote wire for years.....it's def not too small.
Have you done the big 3 yet? I did notice you said you had stock wiring still. Do the big 3, replace the 4 gauge with appropriate power/ground wire and see if that solves your issue.
No. stock wiring being 2 gauge is ran from alternator to battery already underneath seat, battery negative is also 2 gauge ran stock to frame about 1 foot. That's 2 of the big 3 with wiring bigger than 4 gauge, a ground shouldn't be ran long like 12-13 ft from the alternator under hood to battery- under seat which would be the 3rd of the big 3

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No. stock wiring being 2 gauge is ran from alternator to battery already underneath seat, battery negative is also 2 gauge ran stock to frame about 1 foot. That's 2 of the big 3 with wiring bigger than 4 gauge, a ground shouldn't be ran long like 12-13 ft from the alternator under hood to battery- under seat which would be the 3rd of the big 3

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Alt + to battery +

Battery - to frame

Engine block to frame

 
No. stock wiring being 2 gauge is ran from alternator to battery already underneath seat, battery negative is also 2 gauge ran stock to frame about 1 foot. That's 2 of the big 3 with wiring bigger than 4 gauge, a ground shouldn't be ran long like 12-13 ft from the alternator under hood to battery- under seat which would be the 3rd of the big 3

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You misunderstood me. The 4 gauge to your amp...change it out to 1/0 gauge or whatever that amp accepts the biggest power wire possible.

I would also suggest changing that 2 gauge big 3 wiring to 1/0 .

 
You misunderstood me. The 4 gauge to your amp...change it out to 1/0 gauge or whatever that amp accepts the biggest power wire possible.
I would also suggest changing that 2 gauge big 3 wiring to 1/0 .
No I understood u I was saying that the 2 gauge factory is bigger than the typical 4 gauge. Now swapping out the 4 gauge that's on the amp from battery to 0/2 was the plan, the factory 2 gauge from battery- to frame I can swap to 0/2 which would be about 1 foot I'm a welder so I have plenty of 0/2

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No I understood u I was saying that the 2 gauge factory is bigger than the typical 4 gauge. Now swapping out the 4 gauge that's on the amp from battery to 0/2 was the plan, the factory 2 gauge from battery- to frame I can swap to 0/2 which would be about 1 foot I'm a welder so I have plenty of 0/2

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I mean 2/0

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