Skar going into protective mode

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Big difference, gonna see if it happens to trip the breaker if not then regardless of amp dyno it's probably not a true 2000 watt

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What true 2000w u recommend how about the taramps hd 3000 im looking at that one

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Taramps would likely make more power for you. The solid Korean build 2K amps are Sundown, DD, Soundqubed, DC, even Kicker makes a 2500 that's legit. Any of those would run you around 400$ and up used. I really think you might just be asking too much from a 200$ amp.

 
I received a skar rp 2000.1 on 12/29 played fine for a week starting last week amp had been going into protective mode, manual recommends 0 gauge and 200 amp fuse, I have 4 gauge and 150amp breaker, breaker hasn't tripped once, car must turn off then back on to go back to power, amp wired to one ohm. Is the small 4 gauge and breaker causing this?

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Following along and have a question I didn't see the answer to: when does the amp go into protect? All the time? At high volume? What's it driving for speakers and impedance?

Wire gauge requirements what they are, the amp would play fine at low volumes/low current draw with 8 gauge wire and a decent ground. If it's going into protect with a light load there could be a problem with a speaker or wiring.

-Eric

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Yea u make sense, no at low volume it's not going into protect

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You are clipping plain and simple..... If you are playing -13 db tracks with the gain set for -15 you clipped. Any song with anything higher than -15db bass information will be clipping. Your amp is protecting thats a clear sign of clipping.

 
You are clipping plain and simple..... If you are playing -13 db tracks with the gain set for -15 you clipped. Any song with anything higher than -15db bass information will be clipping. Your amp is protecting thats a clear sign of clipping.
Post #28 , -15db was a typo. I used -10db per the recommendation, and volume under 75% which gains were set, I am not clipping. Amp is protecting because power wire used is too small and doesn't supply enough current when amp demands, as advised by a skar representative

 
Post #28 , -15db was a typo. I used -10db per the recommendation, and volume under 75% which gains were set, I am not clipping. Amp is protecting because power wire used is too small and doesn't supply enough current when amp demands, as advised by a skar representative
when the amp is current starved it leads to early clipping as well because you set it for XXX amount of watts however it can only produce XX amount of watts due to not enough current so yes you are forcing your amp to do more power than its currently capable of therefore its clipping.

For example you set it for 2k however at its current state its only 1.5k capable due to current. Trying to make it force that extra 500 watts, it can only do that by clipping.

 
when the amp is current starved it leads to early clipping as well because you set it for XXX amount of watts however it can only produce XX amount of watts due to not enough current so yes you are forcing your amp to do more power than its currently capable of therefore its clipping.
For example you set it for 2k however at its current state its only 1.5k capable due to current. Trying to make it force that extra 500 watts, it can only do that by clipping.
that makes sense

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that makes sense

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Hey bud my inbox is getting full just continue the convo here.

So can you list exactly what you have going on in your system right now

how big is your alt, how many batteries do you have and what sizes. Whats your amp wiring gauge, big 3 details etc..

You head unit settings I MEAN ALL OF THEM, sub level, bass boost, loudness, volume max and current volume, head unit model, EQ settings, SLA, etc...

pictures of your amp and its knob settings if possible.

Because if its not just the skar protecting but the taramps too, its definitely something else in your system thats causing both amps to protect.

 
Pioneer avh x2800bs, 1 factory battery group 78, alt is 220a, taramps only accept 4 gauge n it's on a 150a breaker, no big 3, battery is under seat , far from alternator under hood. Sub level 0, boost 0, loudness off, volume max is 40, sla 0. When I had the punch 1000x2 on 2 sealed e 15s it never went in protective with same settings. I hd the skar on 4 gauge then I put it on 0 gauge same issues. Voltage stays at 14.5 according to digital dish display

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Pioneer avh x2800bs, 1 factory battery group 78, alt is 220a, taramps only accept 4 gauge n it's on a 150a breaker, no big 3, battery is under seat , far from alternator under hood. Sub level 0, boost 0, loudness off, volume max is 40, sla 0. When I had the punch 1000x2 on 2 sealed e 15s it never went in protective with same settings. I hd the skar on 4 gauge then I put it on 0 gauge same issues. Voltage stays at 14.5 according to digital dish display

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you need to take voltage measurements at the amp pos and ground terminals, not what your dash displays. You dont have nearly enough battery power to support anything above 1500 watts. What brand of alt do you have?

Plus the battery far from the alternator would require big and thick dedicated positive and ground wire runs along with the big 3. Right now it looks like you have no proper power delivery or flow basically all your amps were starving from lack of real current. Your punch 1000.2 doesnt even come close to drawing any amount of currents your newer amps draw. You underestimate severely the amount of electrical upgrades needed to run bigger amps.

 
What true 2000w u recommend how about the taramps hd 3000 im looking at that
Ill throw in my 2¢. I just bought a taramps 3k and its very impressive. But it needs 0 gauge wire to run optimaly. Also with the taramps it comes with a clipping indicator. Ive noticed while tuning the gain and etc that only one or two volume knotches after clipping the protect light comes on. It doesnt take much clipping to do damage so it will protect to protect your subs. Tune to a 0db test tone at 80% of max volume with EQ at 0, not at -X. Meausre battery voltage under heavy amp draw and then you will have your answer

 
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