Skar going into protective mode

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

What vehicle are we talking about here?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

If you haven't opened the 150A breaker yet why are you considering going to a larger fuse?

Also rem+ carries almost no current so it can be tiny and still function. The only compelling reason to use larger wire there is for the sake of thicker insulation and being a bit more durable.

How have you set your gains? You might just be trying to push the amp beyond its limits.

 

[Boomin_tahoe 5,000+ posts]

If you haven't opened the 150A breaker yet why are you considering going to a larger fuse?
Also rem+ carries almost no current so it can be tiny and still function. The only compelling reason to use larger wire there is for the sake of thicker insulation and being a bit more durable.

How have you set your gains? You might just be trying to push the amp beyond its limits.

That's a very good question. Waits for an answer....

Also Op you say that the 4 gauge is comparable to 2 gauge in your stock wiring. How is that possible when 2 gauge should be thicker than 4 gauge?

 

[SLAB153]

What vehicle are we talking about here?

2006 Cadillac DTS

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[SLAB153]

That's a very good question. Waits for an answer....
Also Op you say that the 4 gauge is comparable to 2 gauge in your stock wiring. How is that possible when 2 gauge should be thicker than 4 gauge?

I didn't say 4 gauge is comparable I said the factory 2 gauge is bigger than your typical, average 4 gauge

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[SLAB153]

If you haven't opened the 150A breaker yet why are you considering going to a larger fuse?
Also rem+ carries almost no current so it can be tiny and still function. The only compelling reason to use larger wire there is for the sake of thicker insulation and being a bit more durable.

How have you set your gains? You might just be trying to push the amp beyond its limits.

That's what the manual says for the rp2000.1, I also have a soundstream pn4.520d it has 1 40 fuse so a 250 fuse would be alright. The larger the wire the more amperage it can carry, once a welding wire was so long we're talking 150 plus feet once the rod was struck the wire start jumping like a fish cuz it was too small over that long distance so in other words that's telling me When I turn up the volume the amp can't get all its power asking through the 4 gauge, I didn't have this issue with 1000w amps. Gains were set with a dmm on 75% of max volume which is 30 100% being 40, on heavy bass songs it goes into protective mode on 25-28. I'll be putting the 2/0 and 250a fuse on today and let you all know.

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[mazdakid 5,000+ posts]

If you cant pop the 150a breaker then why do you think you need to step up to a 250a?

 

[hispls 5,000+ posts]

That's a very good question. Waits for an answer....
Also Op you say that the 4 gauge is comparable to 2 gauge in your stock wiring. How is that possible when 2 gauge should be thicker than 4 gauge?

Perhaps stock "2 gauge" is so pathetic it's smaller than car audio branded 4 gauge?

That's what the manual says for the rp2000.1, I also have a soundstream pn4.520d it has 1 40 fuse so a 250 fuse would be alright. The larger the wire the more amperage it can carry, once a welding wire was so long we're talking 150 plus feet once the rod was struck the wire start jumping like a fish cuz it was too small over that long distance so in other words that's telling me When I turn up the volume the amp can't get all its power asking through the 4 gauge, I didn't have this issue with 1000w amps. Gains were set with a dmm on 75% of max volume which is 30 100% being 40, on heavy bass songs it goes into protective mode on 25-28. I'll be putting the 2/0 and 250a fuse on today and let you all know.

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You still haven't answered why you are planning to use a larger fuse when the current one hasn't opened.

Not sure what you mean by setting the gain with DMM, but how are you sure you're just not trying to push the amp beyond it's intended limits when it's protecting?

 

[SLAB153]

If you cant pop the 150a breaker then why do you think you need to step up to a 250a?

I was thinking the same thing, I called skar tech support he told me the recommendation is 0ga with 200a fuse, i got a feeling if I put 0ga on the 150a it'll pop being more current travels through 0ga than 4ga

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[SLAB153]

Perhaps stock "2 gauge" is so pathetic it's smaller than car audio branded 4 gauge?


You still haven't answered why you are planning to use a larger fuse when the current one hasn't opened.

Not sure what you mean by setting the gain with DMM, but how are you sure you're just not trying to push the amp beyond it's intended limits when it's protecting?

Because I was told by both sundown and skar reps that I'm not getting the full power from amp to subs if I'm using smaller than recommended power wire and fuse in other words a 4 gauge will let up to say 160 amps at most pass thru it won't necessarily pop the 150a fuse, audio shop says 4ga for up to 1000w n over 1000w they go 0ga, I'll play with it once I get home n see if the 0ga will pop the 150a fuse which I think it will. Setting the gain with the dmm is 2200 watts @ 1 ohm square root equal 46.9 so on volume 32 with 40hz -15db sine wave, that's how my gains were set to 46.9, music is dynamic n my average volume is 20-25 so that's under the 75% of my head unit. And it played fine no issues the first week til now. The 2ga factory is actually a lil bigger, Lil heavier, and has Lil more copper than the 4ga then there's 1ga then 1/0, 2/0 etc, the Cadillac limousine has 1ga 25 feet from alternator to battery underneath seat with 220a alternator, I have the limo 220a n left the 2ga being I'm 1/2 the car of the limo so 1/2 the wire, the longer the wire the bigger u need to go to get all ur amps

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[crosjr 10+ year member]

Because I was told by both sundown and skar reps that I'm not getting the full power from amp to subs if I'm using smaller than recommended power wire and fuse in other words a 4 gauge will let up to say 160 amps at most pass thru it won't necessarily pop the 150a fuse, audio shop says 4ga for up to 1000w n over 1000w they go 0ga, I'll play with it once I get home n see if the 0ga will pop the 150a fuse which I think it will. Setting the gain with the dmm is 2200 watts @ 1 ohm square root equal 46.9 so on volume 32 with 40hz -15db sine wave, that's how my gains were set to 46.9, music is dynamic n my average volume is 20-25 so that's under the 75% of my head unit. And it played fine no issues the first week til now. The 2ga factory is actually a lil bigger, Lil heavier, and has Lil more copper than the 4ga then there's 1ga then 1/0, 2/0 etc, the Cadillac limousine has 1ga 25 feet from alternator to battery underneath seat with 220a alternator, I have the limo 220a n left the 2ga being I'm 1/2 the car of the limo so 1/2 the wire, the longer the wire the bigger u need to go to get all ur amps
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While going with a bigger power cable can only make things better, judging by this I think you are setting your amp way too high. Why a -15db test tone?

 

[crosjr 10+ year member]

Because I was told by both sundown and skar reps that I'm not getting the full power from amp to subs if I'm using smaller than recommended power wire and fuse in other words a 4 gauge will let up to say 160 amps at most pass thru it won't necessarily pop the 150a fuse, audio shop says 4ga for up to 1000w n over 1000w they go 0ga, I'll play with it once I get home n see if the 0ga will pop the 150a fuse which I think it will. Setting the gain with the dmm is 2200 watts @ 1 ohm square root equal 46.9 so on volume 32 with 40hz -15db sine wave, that's how my gains were set to 46.9, music is dynamic n my average volume is 20-25 so that's under the 75% of my head unit. And it played fine no issues the first week til now. The 2ga factory is actually a lil bigger, Lil heavier, and has Lil more copper than the 4ga then there's 1ga then 1/0, 2/0 etc, the Cadillac limousine has 1ga 25 feet from alternator to battery underneath seat with 220a alternator, I have the limo 220a n left the 2ga being I'm 1/2 the car of the limo so 1/2 the wire, the longer the wire the bigger u need to go to get all ur amps
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While going with a bigger power cable can only make things better, judging by this I think you are setting your amp way too high. Why a -15db test tone?

 

[SLAB153]

While going with a bigger power cable can only make things better, judging by this I think you are setting your amp way too high. Why a -15db test tone?

My bad I used -10db not -15db I followed this Preliminary information:

People will tell you different things when it comes to what tone to use to set your gains. Some will say to use a 0dB tone, some will say to use a -3dB tone, and some say a -5db tone, some may even say a -10dB tone.

Now you may wonder, why would I want to tune my amp with a wave that is smaller? The answer is simple: Music is dynamic. It is not made up of 0dB tones, but by many rather smaller frequencies and notes layered together, waves on top of waves.

In an audio file the highest point that a wave can be without clipping off (it's maximum clean size) is referred to as 0dB, and anything less than that is referred to as -x.xdB (however many dB under a full wave.)

Now in music you have frequencies your tweeters pick up on top of frequencies your midrages/midbasses pick up on top of frequencies your subwoofers pick up. When you start using your amps filter (in this case your bass amp's low pass filter) you are removing the frequencies you don't want that driver to reproduce, and are left with the frequencies you do want. When you start removing the notes that are layered on top of the bass notes, the notes shrink back down to their natural sizes.

Let's use the song 'Man I' by Gorilla Zoe for reference. Even though the song fills up the audacity display window from peak to peak at points, when you use the low pass filter on it set to 80Hz@12dB/octave you are actually receiving about -13dB of music (bass) instead of 0dB. This means that there is room to increase the output of the bass safely. Almost every song is like this, and that is why it is safe to use a negative amplitude tone to tune your amp.

How do I know what tone I should use though? It's simple, if you like listening to bass boosted music, such as Decaf's music, use no more than a -5dB tone, if you just listen to regular non-boosted music you may be safe up to a -10dB tone. Choose the tones based on the type of music you listen to. For instance; I make my own edited and boosted songs, but I use a limit to my bass. I do not amplify the bass in a song beyond -8dB, and as a result I tune my system with a -7.5dB tone to get the most out of my music.

For treble I recommend a tone between 0 and -10dB.

For bass I recommend a tone between -5 and -10dB

Use whatever tone you feel safe with.

Remember though, that after you tune your system with this tone you cannot exceed that amplitude at full tilt without clipping it, so be sure you know how much bass is in a song before you play it. I usually check a song for clipping by playing it in Windows Media Player with the scope visualization on and look for flat spots. If it is clean, I put it in Audacity and check the amplitude of the bass. If it is less than my tuning tone, then I can play it at full tilt, if it is more then I will have to back off a bit on the sub level.

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[hispls 5,000+ posts]

So you believe somehow the 150A breaker is the weak link even though you have yet to open it?

Hate to burst your bubble, but that's not exactly a robust 2K amp at that price point and if you're wired to 1 ohm nominal you'll likely never open that 150A breaker. Yes, going bigger on your power and ground is good, double checking everything is good, but I suspect you're just trying to push it beyond it's limits.

Let me ask you this, is it going into protect at low or moderate listening levels?

 

[SLAB153]

So you believe somehow the 150A breaker is the weak link even though you have yet to open it?
Hate to burst your bubble, but that's not exactly a robust 2K amp at that price point and if you're wired to 1 ohm nominal you'll likely never open that 150A breaker. Yes, going bigger on your power and ground is good, double checking everything is good, but I suspect you're just trying to push it beyond it's limits.

Let me ask you this, is it going into protect at low or moderate listening levels?

Yea u make sense, no at low volume it's not going into protect

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