Single capable amp needed to push 2 12" bone crushers.

Absolutely wrong... They took the alpine type out it's box (the original box designed for alpine) an put the bone crusher in there an gave it the same beating an didn't blow (the alpine blew) then they took both subs apart to compare the coil. Well the alpine was roasted to a crisp the BC was boiling but the coil had no scorch marks on it an I was kinda impressed. But know that obviously I haven't had much exposure to different sub types an outputs... Music can't be played to loud here in Australia because fines are handed out for disturbing the peace.
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No way in a hell a off brand beat a mainstream brand. There's more to the story than that. Also....what kind of enclosure was the sub in? I'm willing to bet they clipped the phuck out of that Alpine sub...What amp/how many watts were going to both drivers? What vehicle was it in...oh wait you said at a car audio shop....but sometimes shops have company vehicle with equipment inside to show off brands.

 

---------- Post added at 02:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:40 AM ----------

 

I'v only got access to certain perameters there are a few I cannot find online. The sub isn't well known here not many know Abt it not many use find them all is gona be a huge nearly impossible mission.
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Well that's what you get for buying a off brand driver.

 
No way in a hell a off brand beat a mainstream brand. There's more to the story than that. Also....what kind of enclosure was the sub in? I'm willing to bet they clipped the phuck out of that Alpine sub...What amp/how many watts were going to both drivers? What vehicle was it in...oh wait you said at a car audio shop....but sometimes shops have company vehicle with equipment inside to show off brands.
They had used the box originally designed for alpine type R. The amp was an MRX-M110. I'm not sure Abt clipping..the volume nor amp output was changed or atleast I didn't noticed any of that happening. But Dnt just take it from me... I had just arrived at the shop when the demo started an I had 100% faith that alpine will last right through.. Lol... Nope it didn't.
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No way in a hell a off brand beat a mainstream brand. There's more to the story than that. Also....what kind of enclosure was the sub in? I'm willing to bet they clipped the phuck out of that Alpine sub...What amp/how many watts were going to both drivers? What vehicle was it in...oh wait you said at a car audio shop....but sometimes shops have company vehicle with equipment inside to show off brands. 

---------- Post added at 02:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:40 AM ----------

 

Well that's what you get for buying a off brand driver.
It Dnt matter to me... Make no mistake I am a huge alpine fan... B4 all this... My setup was an alpine double din.. Alpine spr 60 an spr 60c a pdx 4.1 for the speaker an the pdx 1.1 for the sub. The bc cost me 150 each... This is nothing to me but for now I know it's cheap because it's a new brand down under but if it performs... Well then huge luck on my part...
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Shopping.
84304b40a35cc0d9ef4348fb0df28a2e.jpg


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Not perfect. Had a friend test the box output an got 36hz...not that I understand what that really means.
2f78fbd93eb6134bd3f9267ae5761dbb.jpg


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uhm.. that better be sub up, port back... or else thats gonna be horrible loading.
Well he hooked it up to 2 pdx. An they sound really really good jeff.. I mean it wasn't a perfect box.. But It does the job... I think ima keep at it and re make it using different techniques. Just for fun. See how far I can go.
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Well he hooked it up to 2 pdx. An they sound really really good jeff.. I mean it wasn't a perfect box.. But It does the job... I think ima keep at it and re make it using different techniques. Just for fun. See how far I can go.
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talking about your 36hz or whatever box. You can use it but have sub fire up, port fire back. Just letting you know the optimal way to position it. Not ragging on the box.

 
May I try to help?.. those parameters you posted just would NOT work for me... maybe it's me, maybe not... anyways this design in Torres should be close to what you need... not perfect and I'm hanging out there on this one due to not being able to model them first... Please slow down and study how these assembly drawings show the sub/port configuration and assembly... Build it just like the pictures as this sub/port configuration is how it is done in Torres... the only 45 degree beveled piece you'll probably need is at the bend in the port.. the round dowels shown should be added... don't worry about displacement... It'll be minimal... ask away if something does not make sense... please!

BTW... it is ALL 3/4" single baffle construction... it's sufficient in your case...

This will most likely sound a lot better than the box above you built... I'd start over if I was you... You can try this one if you want... Once installed in the vehicle, leave around 4" clearance for the port to breathe and face the subs/port to the rear... Just my humble opinion...

Nf7g3O.jpg


Use dowels for bracing...

juzR7SA.jpg


This is EXACTLY how the pieces listed should fit together in the illustration below... port wall behind the baffle... a 45 in the port bend... the other 45's are optional and not accounted for in the volume... not that they'd make much difference anyways... the end wall on the port side will need to be cut .75" longer than the one on the other side of the box... look and you'll see this as well... use the "Physical port length" to tell you how long to cut your port pieces and make sure it is spaced 4" from the sides of the box evenly throughout it's length... there should be 4" of space from the port bend to the 45 as well... If I'm missing something it is because I've been typing for so long...

vppcjCH.png


If you decide to start over and have any questions... Don't hesitate to ask...

Good Luck!

 
The subs can be on top as well... subs up/port back... drivers side port is also an option... meaning it really is up to you... I like D/S port more but I'm metering mine...

 
I just noticed that I screwed-up your available space I believe... is it a hatch or trunk... are these your MAX dimensions?.. 35" w x 23.5" d x 15.5" h?..

Here is another try... same as above...

z5w0aP.jpg


 
talking about your 36hz or whatever box. You can use it but have sub fire up, port fire back. Just letting you know the optimal way to position it. Not ragging on the box.
Will deff give it a go in my next build which I begin next weekend.
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