Should I rewire my car

Whichever is more convenient for you. I already had one set of RCA's so I just bought another to run it. Now I just have my front speakers amped and don't run my rears at all. If you don't have any RCAs and want to amp all 4 speakers, go ahead and buy a 4 channel set.

And having someone walk you through it the first time is a huge help. That's how I learned, it only takes one time to see it really. If you're any good with your hands and used to taking stuff apart or whatever, it works the same way. Take out the screws, pop off the panels. It's just a lot bigger haha.

 
Yeah I'm gonna go ahead and get the 4 channel race and run all 4 for now. Until I upgrade my components. Really that's what I need is walking through and I'll be good. I'm a hands on person so that's not an issue at all. Just need somebody to do it with me and I'll be good.

For the big 3 I need 1/0 gauge and 1/0 gauge ring terminals? Correct?

 
Yeah I'm gonna go ahead and get the 4 channel race and run all 4 for now. Until I upgrade my components. Really that's what I need is walking through and I'll be good. I'm a hands on person so that's not an issue at all. Just need somebody to do it with me and I'll be good.
For the big 3 I need 1/0 gauge and 1/0 gauge ring terminals? Correct?
Do it man, whatever your preference for that matter. And for finding someone to help you... we got a lot of North East guys on here, try posting on this forum Pennsylvania

And yea, for the big 3 you need 1/0 terminals... and likely anywhere from 5 to 10 feet of wire. Just head out to your car and measure it out. Personally, I bought my wire off a member here. I'd suggest just looking in the classifieds and see who has any for sale.

 
so a sub like the lvl 4, to wire the actual sub would you say use 10 or 8 gauge? or stick to the typical 12 gauge speaker wire. Knu actually has a kit of 1/0 gauge which is cheaper than in pieces so I'm gonna pick that up along with the rest but i get the feeling to wire the actual sub is going to require more than just small wire

 
Do it man, whatever your preference for that matter. And for finding someone to help you... we got a lot of North East guys on here, try posting on this forum PennsylvaniaAnd yea, for the big 3 you need 1/0 terminals... and likely anywhere from 5 to 10 feet of wire. Just head out to your car and measure it out. Personally, I bought my wire off a member here. I'd suggest just looking in the classifieds and see who has any for sale.
so for the ground for the 4 channel, i need a separate second ground, or can i just run my ground into another distro block? i guess it would be easier to just do a second ground. and cheaper

 
so a sub like the lvl 4, to wire the actual sub would you say use 10 or 8 gauge? or stick to the typical 12 gauge speaker wire. Knu actually has a kit of 1/0 gauge which is cheaper than in pieces so I'm gonna pick that up along with the rest but i get the feeling to wire the actual sub is going to require more than just small wire
Well make sure that kit has enough for your amp, and the big 3 then.... cus as far as I know, they only give ya 17 or 20 feet or so. Which could be ok assuming you've got a short run going in your vehicle.

As for wiring for the sub, I'd suggest 10 gauge. You could use 8 gauge too if you'd like, it's certainly not necessary. And depending on what 12 gauge you have, it could be just fine. I'm using some Stinger 12 gauge that's really oversized, so it's plenty big for my application.

And ground however you like again. But you should use the same point on the car to ground. be it separate runs from each amp, or into a distro block.

 
Yeah the kit comes with 17 ft of power and 5 ft of ground. 17 should be enough for a straight run to the amp and the other 5 for the big 3. Ground for the 4 channel should be at the same spot as the ground for my mono? Or a different spot?

 
Meh, maybe, assuming you have a short power run and a short big 3. And yes, both amps should ground at the same spot. Otherwise, I believe, you run the risk of introducing noise in the system.
now that's one thing I didn't know. My sub amp is grounded to the frame, my mids/highs amp is grounded at the battery. Perhaps that's why I'm getting a pop when the amp cuts off (but not when it cuts on).

 
now that's one thing I didn't know. My sub amp is grounded to the frame, my mids/highs amp is grounded at the battery. Perhaps that's why I'm getting a pop when the amp cuts off (but not when it cuts on).
Could be, could not be. Some people don't have any problems, others do. So it's just a rule of thumb. I'm not sure if it can cause any more serious problems, or if noise interference is the only issue.

 
so i got me a dmm today, stepdad had an extra. was checking it out testing out my old jl vr 6.5, and got a reading of 3.3-4, i imagine there has to some leeway, it will never be perfect. or is it a bad dmm? or just much harder to get a proper reading on a speaker as opposed to a sub? I had the dmm set on ac and on 200 ohms. when i do the gains its the same way as the speakers or whats the dmm set to when i set gains?

I also was giving my car a bath decided to measure out for my big 3 and check my power and whatnot, turns out six years ago when i had my car originally set up the rcas are right next to the power. Would possibly explain the random shut offs on my deck? and sound cut outs? so many questions that i thought i knew the answers to.

 
I have never had an issue with running the RCAs next to the power wire. Some people claim they do. I am not sure if it's not something else causing the problem.

Anyways, I rewire my car because I am no fan of the thin, cheap wire that comes factory. Wiring through the door jamb is often the most time consuming part. It isn't hard, just requires patience. The easiest way is to remove the accordian grommet and attach the speaker wire to a coat hanger and and route it through. I have also had luck snaking a insulation support wire (it's like an 18" thin, flexible rod) through, taping the speaker wire, and then pulling up.

As far as grounding, a common ground works best but I have had success in some cars with different grounding points, other cars not so much.

 
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