Recommend me a good 4 channel

[gravityeyelids]

I need to upgrade my sub amp AND amp my fronts... Please recommend me a good 4 chan that can help me power the following:

Image Dynamics IDQ 10 D2 V.2 - RMS is 250w...however I have heard that these puppies can take closer to 400 or 500....correct me if i'm wrong

Rockford Fosgate Fanatic P Components - I believe around 50w RMS.

Obviously I plan to bridge the 2 chans and use the other 2 to amp fronts. I want an amp with two pairs or RCA inputs so I can control them independently...anything else i should be looking for in an amp for a setup like this?

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[Side Show 10+ year member]

make sure the amp has LPF and HPF built in.

 

[trumpet 5,000+ posts]

A JBL GTO-3EZ would be a fine choice for this. It's underrated and you'll have the easiest time of setting your gains correctly.

 

[gravityeyelids]

i should probably mention that i'm looking for a bit of a budget amp...i don't want to spend more than $200. I would prefer to buy used as well.

 

[gravityeyelids]

That JBL one looks ******* **** though. For some reason i never even considered the option of a 3 channel for this setup...dur

 

---------- Post added at 02:41 AM ---------- Previous post was at 02:41 AM ----------

 

why is se xy bleeped out?

 

[zako 10+ year member]

Since the subwoofer is D2, you probably want to wire the voice coils in series, for final 4ohm impedance. At this point, bridging a couple of channels seems like a logical choice. I'd recommend a PPI P900.4, which should give you an honest 450watt RMS output with 14.4 volts when bridged. It worked fine as a subwoofer amplifier for me, with effectively no ventilation around the case, it still run warm but not hot.

 

[gravityeyelids]

Since the subwoofer is D2, you probably want to wire the voice coils in series, for final 4ohm impedance. At this point, bridging a couple of channels seems like a logical choice. I'd recommend a PPI P900.4, which should give you an honest 450watt RMS output with 14.4 volts when bridged. It worked fine as a subwoofer amplifier for me, with effectively no ventilation around the case, it still run warm but not hot.

ya i should prob mention that it's already wired in series and i have it bridged off a wimpy 2 channel kenwood (im getting like 150w RMS) but i need more power....The PPI also looks nice.

Whats the diff between 12v and 14.4v? Im not a moron...i mean i know that the car battery is 12 volt and most cars actually have a voltage of like 13.8ish and that the voltage is directly related to the other things in the circuit (resistance, etc)..

 

[naughtyca 10+ year member]

ya i should prob mention that it's already wired in series and i have it bridged off a wimpy 2 channel kenwood (im getting like 150w RMS) but i need more power....The PPI also looks nice.
Whats the diff between 12v and 14.4v? Im not a moron...i mean i know that the car battery is 12 volt and most cars actually have a voltage of like 13.8ish and that the voltage is directly related to the other things in the circuit (resistance, etc)..

the lower your voltage the lower your rms or wattage you are getting, when they say 150w at 14.4v that means at 13.8 the rms wattage is lower and you wont get the 150w unstil 14.4v not accounting the box rise

 

[PPI_GUY 10+ year member]

PPI Phantoms and Black Ice are both good quality options. JL Audio XD or even JX series are another possibility. I've used both JL series and you will like either of them. And there are lots of strong reviews for the PPI's out there. I do like the frequency multiplier switch on the PPI Phantoms and I think the JL XD has that feature as well. You'd better double check to be sure.

 

[zako 10+ year member]

12 to 12.5V is what you get at the battery terminals with the engine off. If your wiring is good, the voltage won't be much lower at the amplifier terminals. If you don't get at least 12V at the battery terminals, then the battery or the charging system is probably going bad. If you turn the engine on, then the voltage will go up to 14-14.4V due to the alternator. If your wiring is not very good (e.g. you haven't done big 3 and the factory wires are rusted and flimsy) then you can get a significant voltage drop and you won't see anywhere near 14.4V on the amplifier end. You can check all this easily with a $3 multimeter.