Rear Battery debate

Yea, I guess my mustang is really a piece of ****!
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I have a few of those too. What i meant is in general the unibodies we have now dont conduct electricity due to the ****** construction of them. Im sure a 66 mustang unibody conducts electricity alot better than a focus. Ive done alot of installs and its tough to find a good ground in alot of new cars. Either somethings in the way of a good ground, its a ****** panel, or the metal doesnt hold the ground bolt because its cheap *** china metal.

 
Thanks! It's good for now. Gonna get another to strap here pretty soon on 4 sa 8's.

And yea most of the focus is probably outsourced but it says Ford on it so it makes me feel better.

Ahem, its a 67, ahem

 
Hard to tell at first glance, ive always like the 2nd gen styling more though honestly. Myself i have a few unibodies, a 66 mustang, 67 falcon, and 69 mach 1. Now i just need something ford made from 68 and ill be set.

 
The only time I see negative runs of wires back up front is when they're bassracing(or whatever its called) where you can only have one battery, that or it's a massive competition SPL vehicle with kilos of watts.

My car(Cadillac Deville) is made out of thick steel all-around so the body/frame can probably take like 1000 amps and still be fine, whereas my friend's 2003 Accord is made out of thin steel and may have issues if you try to run more than a few thousand watts.

The grounding point matters more IMO, try to find a spot where the metal is the thickest and ground it there. you know the grounding point is no good when the self-tapping screw strips the hole.

 
well, i have failed to see mention of the size of ground wire from the battery to the chassis in the front. if i add any battery for any set up i ALWAYS do the big 3 first and them i ground the battery pack in the back to the frame rail using a scraped price of metal a large anough star washer and i bolt it with locking washers. rails are the bst way to get he least resistance.

aws stated earlier use a dmm to measure resistance of your gmd target area to the neg post and also measure the resistance on the gnd wire awg and length your gonna run and see whats greater. the least the better. so either way is doable but frame is cheeper and many cases jusst as good.

 
I always ground to the seat mount or the rear seatbelt anchor- one of the strongest parts of the car!
That's what I did, works like a champ.

And which is better, run your rear batts + to the alternator or the battery up front?

 
That's what I did, works like a champ.
And which is better, run your rear batts + to the alternator or the battery up front?
It's electrically the same. It's usually just easier and safer to connect to the batt, because often times the alt + terminal is near many pieces of metal that are grounded.

 
That's what I did, works like a champ.
And which is better, run your rear batts + to the alternator or the battery up front?

If you only have one battery in the back I would just run it from the front batt. If you have a bank of batts and running lots of power I would run them from the alt.

 
It's electrically the same. It's usually just easier and safer to connect to the batt, because often times the alt + terminal is near many pieces of metal that are grounded.
that comes down to checking your own a$$ and making sure your safe, i know my alt is in the middle of nowhere so i dont have much of a worry about that.

 
that comes down to checking your own a$$ and making sure your safe, i know my alt is in the middle of nowhere so i dont have much of a worry about that.
Yeah and in your case, there is NOTHING wrong with connecting to the alt. It may enable to you cut as much as 5 ft off from your power run, thus reducing resistance a little. Just remember to fuse it //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 
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