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Rear Battery debate
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<blockquote data-quote="Wingman0121" data-source="post: 7022375" data-attributes="member: 620554"><p>The only time I see negative runs of wires back up front is when they're bassracing(or whatever its called) where you can only have one battery, that or it's a massive competition SPL vehicle with kilos of watts.</p><p></p><p>My car(Cadillac Deville) is made out of thick steel all-around so the body/frame can probably take like 1000 amps and still be fine, whereas my friend's 2003 Accord is made out of thin steel and may have issues if you try to run more than a few thousand watts.</p><p></p><p>The grounding point matters more IMO, try to find a spot where the metal is the thickest and ground it there. you know the grounding point is no good when the self-tapping screw strips the hole.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Wingman0121, post: 7022375, member: 620554"] The only time I see negative runs of wires back up front is when they're bassracing(or whatever its called) where you can only have one battery, that or it's a massive competition SPL vehicle with kilos of watts. My car(Cadillac Deville) is made out of thick steel all-around so the body/frame can probably take like 1000 amps and still be fine, whereas my friend's 2003 Accord is made out of thin steel and may have issues if you try to run more than a few thousand watts. The grounding point matters more IMO, try to find a spot where the metal is the thickest and ground it there. you know the grounding point is no good when the self-tapping screw strips the hole. [/QUOTE]
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