I wanted to make sure I was clear on something. I tried something, and I think this was a MUCH better way to do it. Just wanted to make sure I had the numbers and theory right.
SETUP: I recently finished my amp rack, and new setup. I think I am going to downgrade from this, but this was me wanting to go all out. This is in a regular cab, with the seats as far back as they can go.
Here it is: This is all I got.
.
and
Here it is:
The wires have since been cleaned up, and the third 12" is in there. I had to work my tail off to finish it before a long drive, and I'm still recovering, (and too lazy to get the last pictures).
I have the
DS18 amp set at 82w each on some 4" JL mids in the rear,
Alpine PDX f6 - pushing 2 sets, (currently one set) of JL ZR components.
Orion amp pushing 3 12" solobaric kicker subs. (When I first started using these FRYS sold the round loaded enclosures for $59 or $79, and it was cheaper than the sub alone. I added a square, then two more. They are currently dropped down to just over 400w each, and will be 600w now that I have a fuse big enough, and have been breaking em in.
The one set of JL ZRs and mids are ear damaging loud, and I think I'm going to pull a set out, change the amp, probably do a new rack, and then the door panels can be stock, and it will be completely hidden, (which was a main goal).
I pulled this out of a durango and modified it to fit, (really liking this cupholder vs nothing).
OKAY ON TO THE QUESTION PART:
What you will notice is the two knobs right there, (that are hidden when I sit down). The back one is for the orion sub amp, and instead of having the rear speakers on the rear channel off the head unit, I used splitters coming off the front knob and then have it going to both amps.
So when I checked my head unit with my DMM I get 4.0V at 34 (which is max rating) and 4.4V at 35 (max volume). THIS WAY, I leave my head unit on 34, and it is always sending out max voltage, instead of my amp always working at it's max. I adjust volume with the knobs, (no problem). When volume is maxed out, this changes nothing. When it's not maxed, I'm only maxing out the signal from the head unit, (AND WOULD THIS BE RIGHT), the amp's aren't working as hard. Instead of the amp maxing out the signal it's given, the signal is maxed out, and the amp is only working as hard as it needs to.
(My 3 amps are being controlled by two potentiometers. Head unit stays at or close to max, and I'm controlling the volume from those two knobs. One on the subs, and one for the mids and tweeters. It also lets me adjust them independently so that I can have maxed out bass, with as much to no volume at all. Even at low volumes I get full bass this way, (which is enough of a reason for me to do this)).
I recently was out with my windows down, listening all day, in 118 degree heat at or near max volume, and my amps were barely warm (compared to my fosgate amp). Amp heat was no problem. I'M THINKING adding this $10 potentiometer, should dramatically increase the lifespan on the amp, THE WAY I'M QUESTIONING IT, I THINK it doesn't work as hard. Therefore it also doesn't get as hot.
Am I missing something? Does anyone else do it this way?
SETUP: I recently finished my amp rack, and new setup. I think I am going to downgrade from this, but this was me wanting to go all out. This is in a regular cab, with the seats as far back as they can go.
Here it is: This is all I got.
.
and
Here it is:
The wires have since been cleaned up, and the third 12" is in there. I had to work my tail off to finish it before a long drive, and I'm still recovering, (and too lazy to get the last pictures).
I have the
DS18 amp set at 82w each on some 4" JL mids in the rear,
Alpine PDX f6 - pushing 2 sets, (currently one set) of JL ZR components.
Orion amp pushing 3 12" solobaric kicker subs. (When I first started using these FRYS sold the round loaded enclosures for $59 or $79, and it was cheaper than the sub alone. I added a square, then two more. They are currently dropped down to just over 400w each, and will be 600w now that I have a fuse big enough, and have been breaking em in.
The one set of JL ZRs and mids are ear damaging loud, and I think I'm going to pull a set out, change the amp, probably do a new rack, and then the door panels can be stock, and it will be completely hidden, (which was a main goal).
I pulled this out of a durango and modified it to fit, (really liking this cupholder vs nothing).
OKAY ON TO THE QUESTION PART:
What you will notice is the two knobs right there, (that are hidden when I sit down). The back one is for the orion sub amp, and instead of having the rear speakers on the rear channel off the head unit, I used splitters coming off the front knob and then have it going to both amps.
So when I checked my head unit with my DMM I get 4.0V at 34 (which is max rating) and 4.4V at 35 (max volume). THIS WAY, I leave my head unit on 34, and it is always sending out max voltage, instead of my amp always working at it's max. I adjust volume with the knobs, (no problem). When volume is maxed out, this changes nothing. When it's not maxed, I'm only maxing out the signal from the head unit, (AND WOULD THIS BE RIGHT), the amp's aren't working as hard. Instead of the amp maxing out the signal it's given, the signal is maxed out, and the amp is only working as hard as it needs to.
(My 3 amps are being controlled by two potentiometers. Head unit stays at or close to max, and I'm controlling the volume from those two knobs. One on the subs, and one for the mids and tweeters. It also lets me adjust them independently so that I can have maxed out bass, with as much to no volume at all. Even at low volumes I get full bass this way, (which is enough of a reason for me to do this)).
I recently was out with my windows down, listening all day, in 118 degree heat at or near max volume, and my amps were barely warm (compared to my fosgate amp). Amp heat was no problem. I'M THINKING adding this $10 potentiometer, should dramatically increase the lifespan on the amp, THE WAY I'M QUESTIONING IT, I THINK it doesn't work as hard. Therefore it also doesn't get as hot.
Am I missing something? Does anyone else do it this way?
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