I am willing, just looking at all my other options first. I was under the impression that having the sub in the passenger compartment would mean I could go smaller, less lower to get through the seats. That was my main reason for focusing on the under seat. Just want to make a good decision for my vehicle, not trying to be stubborn.
This could be a real possibility. I could make an open back enclosure with a 15 or two 12s or something, just big enough to hold it up against the back seat. Then it would be pretty easy to take out when I have to put my seats down.If space is an issue but you want big accurate bass, I'd recommend building an Infinite Baffle setup. Amps behind your rear seats, the whole trunk is your enclosure(deaden it) You have literally the whole trunk left to do whatever you wish. The JL cleansweep only flattens the signal, You need something that does both flattening the signal AND adjusting the sound or else you'll be stuck with mediocre results with no sound stage or time alignment,
It's simply way too small. 8 inch sub in a tiny sealed enclosure = poor bass extension. Much better off going ib with larger subs or shallow ported box set up for your situation imo.
Alright. I will budge and explore options for an in trunk sub setup. My understanding is that cone surface area is key. Meaning a 12 will have better low end reach than a similar quality 10 and, all things being equal, will produce better results at lower volumes. As I have said multiple times, I am not looking for loud. I want to enjoy my music personally on long car trips and commuting. Would I be better off with 2 12s with lower wattage or a single 15?
alpine pxa h800 or helix dsp if you want something fancy. Digital designs dsi 2 if you want something mid grade. Dayton audio dsp 408 if you want something cheap. All are quality pieces. You can get a taramps 3000 for 180 bucks. and a pioneer gm series 4 channel for 140 ish bucks. If you have 18 inch height to work with this sub is designed for Infinite Baffle (its not open back the proper term is infinite baffle hence the description of the subs that can do so IB) https://ficaraudio.com/product/ib3-series-ib318-v2/
I was asking what they even were lol. but I did some research and basically they are badass equalizers that also let you change the microtiming of the firing of speakers and levels. Not a bad deal for the prices I am seeing. Especially since I don't have the best ear, I can probably get away with a mid grade and be happy.
Its not just an equalizer, you literally can control crossover slopes, and frequencies and type of crossover as well for perfect blend between sub, midbass, midrange, tweeter. Can literally cheap drivers sound amazing and good drivers sound out of this world., you dont really have to buy component speakers with included crossover, the DSP does the crossover all by itself. Probably the most key important part of the system if SQ is the key.
I will definitely do some research into them then. I was looking at sone of the things they can do. Waaay over my head. But I am sure I can have someone help me dial it in.
Any sub that says IB aka infinite baffle in the name or description. Go bit with the cone area like a 15. All you need to do is build a snug fit baffle wall with no air leaks to the front side.
flat is when it can play 25hz to 50hz with less than 1 db variation. Sealed is linear not flat theres a major output disparity between low notes and the 40 to 50hz notes in most cares due to cabin gain. OP's car is a corolla which has a hard 47 to 50hz resonant frequency that skews literally any sealed setup close to a one note wonder. A sealed box will be FAR from flat in his case. Sealed = you just stuck with the frequency response of your vehicle acoustics with no means of flattening anything out. 1/4 wave transmission lines are usually a lot better playing multiple octaves extremely flat bandwidth all around. Then there's 6th orders and basic bass reflex but tuned for SQ accuracy and bandwidth based on cabin gain measurements.
