Are you running all new wire from your amp straight to you crossovers? Or just running wire from your amp to your deck and using the existing wiring from the factory harness to your doors?
Sounds right. Your HU was powering your midbass and tweeters I assume.
Do this for each channel (one left, one right):
Bridged amp + and - connects to + and - input on the crossover that came with your components. From the crossover there should be 2 sets of + and - outputs, one for the midrange/midbass and the other for the tweeter.
- Thread Starter
- #4
I was thinking about using the stock wiring harness since its easier.
Then just run speaker wire from your amp into the aftermarket harness that plugged into the stock wire harness into the white and gray wires, those are the front wires, then hook the green and purple straight into the deck if you powering your rears from the deck.
In your door plug the wire that went into the stock speaker into the input on the crossover, then plug your tweeter and mid bass into the crossover like normal.
The problem sounds like your are still pluging the white and gray wires(white front left, gray front right) into the deck along with the wires running from your amp. Which means your deck and your amp are both powering your fronts, which is bad for the most part. You need to cap off the white and gray wires comming from the back of the deck, since the deck is no longer powering your fronts. Hope this helps.
In your door plug the wire that went into the stock speaker into the input on the crossover, then plug your tweeter and mid bass into the crossover like normal.
The problem sounds like your are still pluging the white and gray wires(white front left, gray front right) into the deck along with the wires running from your amp. Which means your deck and your amp are both powering your fronts, which is bad for the most part. You need to cap off the white and gray wires comming from the back of the deck, since the deck is no longer powering your fronts. Hope this helps.
What the hell are you talking about? You can't connect the speaker wires on the back of the HU to the outputs on the amp. I might be misunderstanding you, but what you're suggesting doesn't sound right.
What the OP had in his first post is correct.
What the OP had in his first post is correct.
using it for what?
LOL you must not be reading what I wrote right, or I didnt write it right. None the less:
You have wire harness #1: the one the back of the aftermarket deck. You have wire harness #2 the one that you have to buy to wire an aftermarket deck to the stock harness correct? So that makes 2 wire harness total.
The OP wanted to know how to hook his new amp up to his door speakers. He can run wire from each door to the amp(a rewire) which is alot of extra work, or he can run wire from the amp into the the wire harness that you buy: wire harness #2. And that you plug it into the whte and gray wires.
I was emphasizing not to hook it up to wire harness #1 too. Which is what the OP was doing in the first place.
You have wire harness #1: the one the back of the aftermarket deck. You have wire harness #2 the one that you have to buy to wire an aftermarket deck to the stock harness correct? So that makes 2 wire harness total.
The OP wanted to know how to hook his new amp up to his door speakers. He can run wire from each door to the amp(a rewire) which is alot of extra work, or he can run wire from the amp into the the wire harness that you buy: wire harness #2. And that you plug it into the whte and gray wires.
I was emphasizing not to hook it up to wire harness #1 too. Which is what the OP was doing in the first place.
Wiring an amplifier through stock wiring is one of the most retarded things I've ever heard. If you have aftermarket speakers that you want to put on an amp, wire them the right way and be done. I honestly don't think I've ever heard of someone wiring an amp through stock wiring.
LOL, well I guess working at a major electronics store for years thats the standard procedure. Thats why you dont let those places work on your shit. And not everyone has the time(read OPs posts), initialtive or know how to rewire all thier speakers in their doors, of course a re wire is the best and can be worth the effort, but for you to say you have never heard of someone doing that is b.s. I know countless customers who have run new wire and couldnt even tell a differnce from thier stock wireing, and would be pissed they just paid so much in laybor and wire to have it done. Depending on what you got, the average Joe cant tell the difference. I mean shit, check this out http://www.engadget.com/2008/03/03/audiophiles-cant-tell-the-difference-between-monster-cable-and/ True much more interfeirnce in the car, but you get the point.
And if you would have actually read what we where talking about you would have known why the OP said:
Originally Posted by andrewibk
I was thinking about using the stock wiring harness since its easier.
And yes what the OP had in his first post is correct, but the wireing from: output amp -> cross overs is what he was confused on.
- Thread Starter
- #11
disregard using the stock wiring post. This is what i did today. Headunit RCA output to Amp input. Amp output to cross over via speaker wire. Cross over to midbass and tweets. done deal.
How is me never hearing of someone doing that BS? This is the first time I've ever heard of that being done. I'm not surprised that big-box stores do it, because they fuck everything up. Stock HUs maybe give 5-10 watts per speaker. Pushing 75-100 watts through those same wires is just dumb. A novice may not notice a huge difference in sound, but I would be worried about burining up that 24 gauge wire.
And I really don't see how it takes much more effort to wire straight from the amp to the components. You have to fish the wires through the doors, but still not that big of a deal.
Glad the OP did it the right way though
- Thread Starter
- #13
I just need to make sure i cap off the stock wires from the HU to the front speakers. You said they were the gray and white wires ?
they should be labled. Otherwise, you can just cap the speaker wires in the doors (they might even have a wiring harness on them, so it might not even be needed)
Just so we are on the same page I completly agree with you about re wireing and am also glad he did it the right way. I just started posting on these boards a few days go to help people out and share my thousands of hours of experience in car audio. I dont wish to get frustrated on anyone or anything, I'm only here to help you guys out.
Some cars are a nightmare to re wire, so its easy for a do it your selfer to give up and just say screw it. So thats why I suggested/tried to explain it to the OP. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
And yea its the white + and -, and gray + and - or what Hintz said would be perfect too.
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