The remote on many amplifiers acts as a remote gain. BUT, with it turned all the way up, you will be at the point to which you set your gains origonally. If you set it at X, and have the remote all th way up, your gain will affectively be at X, if you have it all the way down, the gain will be lower.
It is like this on some amps, I do now know about ALLL though.
There are basically two types of remote volume control.
Most common one is passive variable L-Pad. Meaning, these are merely a passive resistor controlling the preamp output. So, the system has zero gain.
Joust like a typical L-pad with a volume control for your speakers.
The 2nd type has a gain. It uses a "VCA" voltage Controlled Amplifier". Now, this topology has a gain feature built-in. This particular type uses or should say, it parallels the gain on the amp.
So, it's like having a double gain control and can be more difficult to adjust. The other by-product is that if you "pinch" the wires, you could short the entire preamp section of your amp.
A 3rd by-product is that since this wire is "hot", you can also run into noise being injected into the wire. It's barely a 22ga straight-stranded wire without shielding.
A boost can be a benefit if one understands the relationship between the woofer's resistance vs. amplifiers output.
A typical woofer will have an impedance (ohms) rise around 35~50Hz. As much as 20 Ohms.
So, if you have a woofer with an impedance rise of 10 Ohms at 45Hz, and your amps rated for 300watts, at 45Hz, you will merely get 30 watts out of the amp.
In this situation, it's best to have a boost at 45Hz and boost 10dB to compensate for the impedance rise (loss) in the woofer.
Let’s remember, an amp will only produce based on the impedance (load) it sees from the woofer.
I hope I was helpful