Question about an amplifier and wiring system

JKuhnz
10+ year member

Junior Member
Hello everyone! I'm new to this forum and hope some of you might be able to help me out!

I currently have an underpowered amplifier I am looking to replace.

I run 2 amps in my car, one is a 4 channel 760W pioneer amp to power the door speakers and the other is an 800 watt 2 channel Lanzar amp to power the subwoofers. I had them installed by an installation company. They have 4 gauge wiring running from the battery to a distribution block, then they have 8 gauge wiring running from the distribution block to the 2 amps. I am planning on selling the Lanzar 800 watt amp and replacing it with this:

Hifonics GLX1400.1D

RMS Power Rating:

4 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.

2 ohms: 1000 watts x 1 chan.

1 ohm: 1400 watts x 1 chan.

(I would have linked it but the forum would not let me post with a link)

My first question is, do I have to replace the small piece of 8 gauge wiring running from the distribution block to the amp and up it to 4 gauge wiring? Or will it be fine just leaving it as 8 gauge? Generally I would assume I would have to replace the 4 gauge but I read somewhere on a site it saying 8 gauge coming from the distribution block is okay. Though I wanted to confirm this and not risk burning my system

My second question is, would this amp be too much for my subwoofers? I currently have 2 12" Dual 4 Ohm CompVR Series Kicker Subwoofers. They are rated at 400 RMS 800 Max. I have them wired to 2 ohms. I read on a website that a good way to pick out an amplifiers power is to multiply the subs RMS by how many subs you have. 400x2 so it equals 800 for me. The site also said a good range to be in is 75-150% of your total RMS. .75x800= 600W min and 1.50x800=1200W Max.

So according to this site. I'm looking for a Mono amp which puts out between 600W to 1200W. The amp I listed earlier says it puts out 1000W RMS wired at 2 ohms so if that strategy for picking out power is correct the amp I selected is right in the ballpark. I just wanted to confirm that the stratgy is correct, I don't want to purchase a 1400W amp and end up blowing my subwoofers.

Your input would be much appreciated!

 
Get a ebay volt meter ($3 shipped). Hook it up to the amp inputs.

Keep voltage above ??? (someone chime in)

You have a 1400w amp powering 800 watts of subs. I don't know if that model actually puts out rated, but it sure as hell isn't with 8awg.

Get 4awg OFC or bigger and get reducers. That way you will not have the wiring be a bottle neck. You can always use the 1/0 awg later for a better amp.

 
Get a ebay volt meter ($3 shipped). Hook it up to the amp inputs.
Keep voltage above ??? (someone chime in)

You have a 1400w amp powering 800 watts of subs. I don't know if that model actually puts out rated, but it sure as hell isn't with 8awg.

Get 4awg OFC or bigger and get reducers. That way you will not have the wiring be a bottle neck. You can always use the 1/0 awg later for a better amp.
keep the voltage between 13 and 14 when the vehicle is running. is should be at 12 volts when it is off

 
I am also going to be running an almost identical setup.

Can someone explain why its ok to have 2 guage coming from the battery, to the distribution block, and 4 gauge coming out. doesnt the step down reduce power ?

JKuhnz .. that hifonics needs 2 gauge wire not 4 to give it 14.4 v and its cea compliment so yes its 1400RMS.

My mid amp only takes 8 guage. would the 4 guage be too much for it ?

Or can i have 4 and 8 come out of the distribution block.

 
I am also going to be running an almost identical setup.Can someone explain why its ok to have 2 guage coming from the battery, to the distribution block, and 4 gauge coming out. doesnt the step down reduce power ?

JKuhnz .. that hifonics needs 2 gauge wire not 4 to give it 14.4 v and its cea compliment so yes its 1400RMS.

My mid amp only takes 8 guage. would the 4 guage be too much for it ?

Or can i have 4 and 8 come out of the distribution block.
The ammount of current wire can safely pass depends on thickness and length. Smaller diameter wires are generally safer as you get into smaller lengths. #8 likely is fine for the 4 channel. I'd like to see #4 back to the second amp. Ideally, as has been said, just lose the distro block and run both back to the amps from the battery. While you're at it, do "big 3" upgrade under the hood.

You will definitely be able to break those woofers with 1200W amp so be careful with extended periods of hard playing or be prepared to upgrade subs soon.

 
im using the hifonics 1400.1D but my subs arnt like the kickers jhunz will be using. I got 2-12" RE Audio SEX12D4 wired down to 1ohm

And now it makes sense if at the distribution block point to the amp is only about 12-15" in length the smaller guage does not loose any power compared to 6-8 feet from the battery to the trunk.

That was what i was looking for..

Its a pain in the *** to get to my alternator to do the big 3 i currently get 14.4 with stock wiring ill think about it if i notice any dips after.

I was also planning on using my own homemade distribution block out of some scrap aluminum trying to keep wires to a minimum neat. Steve Meade style setup here.

Subwoofers in Trunk added to Premium sound Package - 2010 2011 BMW 5 Series Forum F10 similar to this. my amp will be seen thru a window in the false floor

 
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JKuhnz

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