Proper Sound Deadening - ?

[Brian_smith06 10+ year member]

he is talking about decoupling... where does mass come into play?

actually he never mentioned decoupling. just sound deadening overall

Now for sound deadening all you need is some cld, mlv, preferrably with some closed cell foam to decouple between surfaces and well thats pretty much it. I have a couple 100 sq feet worth of product in my car so have used a few products.

op if you have any questions i know a little about deadening. feel free to pm and i'll answer questions to the best of my ability. if i dont know the real answer I'll tell you I dont know but will give an opinion on what I think would work best

 

[Brian_smith06 10+ year member]

He does?
He said something about "adding mass with clay". Can you perhaps elaborate??

I'll elaborate. Clay is heavy and can be caked on around baffles to help add mass to the metal hoping that it will help with the metal resonating. You can also add bb's to the clay to add more weight.

 

[emilimo701 10+ year member]

I'll elaborate. Clay is heavy and can be caked on around baffles to help add mass to the metal hoping that it will help with the metal resonating. You can also add bb's to the clay to add more weight.

Oh okay. Well instead of clay (I don't know where you'd find the right kind of clay), you could use this.

Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information

I have some, but haven't installed it yet.

 

[Brian_smith06 10+ year member]

I will admit i have never used clay method though so I personally cannot scrutinize how well it works from personal experience only what i have read on forums.

I will also say that when i start on my next car i will be welding some additional bars in there to help the door remain as solid as possible followed by a lot of deadener. In my opinion this would be ideal, just a little further than a lot of people are willing to go. However, im also the guy who is either going to have 2 6.5" or single 8" mids in his doors playing at most up to 900 hz with gobs of power to them so im going to need some hella strong doors to handle this

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

What he's referring to is adding clay to the speaker baffle/door panel to prevent vibrations. The added mass of the clay supposedly kills vibrations and also has a deadening effect due to the softer clay verses a hard plastic door or sheet metal door frame.

The best way would be to build custom speaker baffles or door panels that are rigid so they don't vibrate or cause harmonics. Then you would want to cover the panel with a foam or fabric material that would deaden the panel and prevent reflected sound or reverberations.

A lot of "car audio" people are not car people or mechanically inclined, so they chase their tail trying to solve problems.

Why introduce more problems attempting to solve lesser problems? A lot of these custom fiberglass door panels that most people are building are so hard and reflective that they actually create more problems altogether. If you were to build a rigid frame into them, and cover them with foam/fabric they would be a lot more acoustically "dead" - allowing the speaker to sound natural and minimizing reflected sound.

I won't dissect the SDS website, but I will tell you there is enough info in there that the average person can develop a very sonically "dead" car environment using their techniques. In other words, keep your baffles and panels rigid, but make all surfaces absorbent so you are not bouncing sound waves around in the cabin or making artificial harmonics or reverberations. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[Brian_smith06 10+ year member]

I like this guy ^^^^^ he is much better with words than I lol

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

Thanks! //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif I should have used a lot better word choice, but I'm trying to paint a brighter picture for people that don't really know all the terms and technical crap behind sound deadening.

 

[emilimo701 10+ year member]

yes but you don't want a baffle itself that is rigid... you want one to be able to absorb vibrations transferring the mechanical energy to thermal

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

when you read about 4 hours a night, have taken college courses in physics, acoustics, and sound recording, and have multiple family members that are auto mechanics and electrical engineers, i'd say that substantiates prerogative to state opinion and give advice. who cares if i've only been a member of this forum for a few months?

A few posts ago didnt you just say that fields overlap and just because you know about something related doesnt mean you know about the actual concept at hand? Since when does acoustics in an area unrelated to car audio come into play in a car? It doesnt. Sure some concepts can be applied, but a car environment is way different than a sound room or HT system.

I couldn't figure it out? I did. the amp wasn't up to par. my head unit wasn't up to par. I did more research. I invested in some better equipment; a line driver and a quality amp. I remember you too, you got something wrong and wouldn't admit it. But whatever, i'm not going to sling any mud back.

You sure figured it out. A line driver isnt even a necessary piece of equipment if your equipment is up to snuff and you tune your HU and amp right. All they do is a take a crappy voltage and amplify that crappy voltage. The only benefit is it allows you to turn the gains down on your amp and lower the noise floor. Again like I said if your equipment is up to snuff this isnt an issue to begin with.

he is talking about decoupling... where does mass come into play?

Please show me where I said wax can be used to decouple. I said it is used to add mass. For being so sophisticated you cant even comprehend English.

For what its worth Ive never used waxed based clay like the tutorial suggests. I have used it to fill tiny holes in adjustable 6x9 speaker adapters to create a properly sealed door panel to create an IB situation for some 6.5" mids and it worked great. Of course the only thing in the door isnt just some small amounts of wax based clay. There is also 128sq ft of SS Damp Pro and SPL tiles throughout. MLV and CCF are next.

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

This sounds like hack work, but a Hot Glue Gun works excellent for filling miss-drilled holes or sealing plastic. If you need a gasket, use closed cell foam or rubber. A proper gasket will work wonders, is cleaner, and easier to remove when the time comes. Avoid silicone caulking or other materials that off-gas. Supposedly, some vapors can weaken the adhesives used to construct your speakers. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

 

[whitedragon551 5,000+ posts]

This sounds like hack work, but a Hot Glue Gun works excellent for filling miss-drilled holes or sealing plastic. If you need a gasket, use closed cell foam or rubber. A proper gasket will work wonders, is cleaner, and easier to remove when the time comes. Avoid silicone caulking or other materials that off-gas. Supposedly, some vapors can weaken the adhesives used to construct your speakers. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Wasnt for a gasket. It was for filling pre drilled holes that werent needed, pen tip sized at the most.

 

[VWBobby 10+ year member]

Its ok, people say I like to hear myself talk. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif Next time, use a hot glue gun or plastic repair material.

 

[sparg93 10+ year member]

wow - some great information...glad to see this post took on a life of it's own!

I'll pulling off the doors this week to see what i have to work with - 1999 Tahoe 4dr

Thank you whitedragon for the web link. I read through every page yesterday and it was incredibly informative and certainly seemed to make sense.

Brian thanks for the offer, I may hit you up prior to buying materials for some advice.

 

[hyrolincstmz 10+ year member]

i personally used Fat Mat extreme and it was just as good if not exactly the same as dynamat but my wallet looks much better due to. i got 100 sq ft for 130$ offf ebay and did my whole extended cab full size. Stay away from the brush ons that need air time to dry.

follow these simple steps and itll be smooth sailin... (and yes they do like to make it sound way more complicate\d than it really is)

1. Strip panels and any foreign objects away from metal to be deadened (is that a word? haha)

2. Rag and acetone metal to adhere to twice and let completely dry

3. pre cut the deadener to be stuck double check it too.

4. peel back small piece at a time working it down SLOWLY and push it all down then re push ALL of it down with either a tennis ball in hand or the small roller which i loved that came with fat mat... the end is critical push it down with a roller good and solid

OH and the smell it WILL go away just give it a week or two, i was freakin out thinkin it the asphaltish smell wasnt going away then it was just gone

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

Stay away from the asphaltish stuff.

For massloading, I like to use duct seal