Problem with sub/amp

[man0war]

I have a 2-channel amp and sub installed in my vehicle. At first, I just had the sub wired into the left output of the amp. Then I figured out I could bridge it (The amp is "bridgeable") so I did. But once I did this, the protect light on the amp came on at certain times. It did this when it was pushing a lot of "bass" (power) to the sub. Also, when it did this, the sub would cut out for a few seconds because of it. It never did this when it was wired into a single channel. I know that bridging gives more power and what not. Is this because my sub can't handle this much power, or is it my amp that can't handle this much power?

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[miker 5,000+ posts]

What impedance is it? What amp is it? What sub is it? How high is your gain set?

 

[man0war]

I have no idea. The amp and sub were given to me. The guy said he was able to use both of these together. The gain is probably only a quarter to half of the way up. All I can tell you is that it's a Kicker comp 10" sub and a Toxic Audio S200.2 amp. There's no specs anywhere on them.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

sounds like a bad amp maybe ,or at least a channel is out

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

Whoever sold you the combo is foolish.

Step 1: remove sub from box.

Step 2: measure voice coil resistance(s)

Report back.

The amp cannot handle 2 ohm bridged, which is likely what you are giving it.

 

[mylows10 5,000+ posts]

kicker comp is a single vc 4 ohm if it's a comp not a cvr

 

[man0war]

Whoever sold you the combo is foolish.
Step 1: remove sub from box.

Step 2: measure voice coil resistance(s)

Report back.

The amp cannot handle 2 ohm bridged, which is likely what you are giving it.

How do you measure voice coil resistance(s)?

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

You need a digital multi-meter. Set to ohms, one lead on each terminal.

Once you remove the sub it may just say on the magnet. Take a pic of how it is wired

 

[man0war]

You need a digital multi-meter. Set to ohms, one lead on each terminal.
Once you remove the sub it may just say on the magnet. Take a pic of how it is wired

I measured the voice coil resistance to be about 2.2 ohms.

 

[man0war]

Also, I forgot to mention that this only happens at higher volumes. Like about 5/8 of the way turned up, on the head unit, and above.

 

[miker 5,000+ posts]

Also, I forgot to mention that this only happens at higher volumes. Like about 5/8 of the way turned up, on the head unit, and above.

This makes sense. Higher volume = higher draw.

 

[man0war]

This makes sense. Higher volume = higher draw.

Right, but the amp/sub shouldn't be cutting out.

 

[miker 5,000+ posts]

Right, but the amp/sub shouldn't be cutting out.

Basically, you're requesting too much from your amp. When you're volume is up and there is a lot of bass, instead of sending out a dirty *** signal and possibly frying your amp and subwoofer, the amp goes into protect mode.

I would recommend that you read how to properly set an amp. there is a comprehensive amp setting tutorial somewhere on this forum. It is easy, however a little tedious but it will save your sub and amp.

Regardless of this, your amp is not meant to run bridged at 2ohm so you may still run into issues. Also, make sure your bass boost is turned off. Also make sure your low pass filter is not too high.

 

[Fi_ 10+ year member]

Wait what?... if this is a Kicker Competition (comp) Single 4 Ohm then that would be a 4 ohm load, how the hell is it reading 2.2 ohms? That amplifier will only bridge @ 4 ohms so that's why you're protecting. What is the exact Subwoofer? I'm beggining to think it's a Dual 4 Ohm CVR if that's the case you need a new subwoofer to match the amplifier or a new amplifier to match the Subwoofer they ARE NOT compatible bridged... Either run the subwoofer off a SINGLE channel @ 2 ohms or don't do it at all, granted you'll only see about 100rms from that amplifier but it's better than nothing.

It has NOTHING to do with how he is setting the amplifier, amp don't protect from being cranked up unless the voltage isn't adequate to run the amplifier or of course if it's overheating Some cheap, cheap brands like bottom bin MIGHT shut off due to clipping but I've maxed out cheap Sony XPLODS and never protected them even when warm.

If it's INDEED a Dual 4 Ohm CVR get an Alpine MRP-500 to run it, perfect match through and through.

 

[keep_hope_alive Premium Member]

^yep.

but if it was truely wired for 2 ohm nominal impedance the DMM should read less than 2 ohms, around 1.8. depends on the meter accuracy and contact resistance.

i suspected the amp was seeing a 2 ohm load. fine when run on one channel, not ok bridged. that is why i said the previous owner was foolish - i suspected the sub/amp combo to be incorrect.

let us know if it is a 4 ohm DVC sub. it should say on the magnet or basket. pics would be a huge help.