Problem With Sub After Battery Change

[CivicHatch]

Hello Everyone. So a few months ago i bought an Alpine SBG-1244BP Type G and an MRV-M500 Amp. Everything was working very good had and had no problem, it was wired by a professional. The sub was very strong and you could feel it do it's job the whole car was shaking //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/biggrin.gif.d71a5d36fcbab170f2364c9f2e3946cb.gif

But one day i was trying to start my car and the battery was absolutely dead, so i bought a new battery and after the new battery the sub is not what it used to be.. In the start the sub was EXTREMELY weak you couldn't feel it at all but in a few days it started working ''okay'' but it is still not as strong.. It doesn't have that spark to it anymore. I took it to some car audio shop and he turned some things in the amplifier and he said that he thinks that the sub is giving it all, but i know it isn't. Also off topic but shouldn't the SBG-1244BP be shining blue inside? No light in mine. Not even before battery change. Is there any switch or something somewhere?

Could anyone please help me or clarify the sudden bass decrease? The car is an EP3 Type R Civic.

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[Hammer Knock]

have big 3 upgrade? what amp do you run?

 

[Jepalan]

Big three. And have the alternator tested - it may be shot. What equipment are you running? (subs & amp)

 

[CivicHatch]

I already said i have MRV-M500 and Alpine SBG-1244BP Type G. What is big three?

 

[Hammer Knock]

youtube it. it will help

 

[erod 10+ year member]

Bro after battery died u have to reset ur radio to the original setting when it was sounding good to u

 

[OzNath 10+ year member]

Big 3 in Stinger 0 gauge and a Optima yellow top D34 battery made my lights not dim as bad, my system pounds **** for a single 1000 rms 12 =)

 

[Jepalan]

I already said i have MRV-M500 and Alpine SBG-1244BP Type G. What is big three?

You've only got a 300W amp, so stock electrical *should* be able to handle the load - might be something else wrong. I agree with the other posters and would do these things:

1) Have your alternator & charging system checked out

2) Make sure all head unit and/or processor settings have been re-tuned to where you had them before the batt swap

3) Using a voltmeter look for drops in your system - check at battery and at amp input - check often.

4) Double check the integrity of amp power/ground and battery connections and wiring.

5) Double check fuses and make sure one hasn't partially failed (it happens - ohm them out, or look for voltage drop across fuse under power)

And regarding the illumination - do you have power/ground connected to the other terminal posts on the sub enclosure?