Pick my Crossover points :)!

[mavster 10+ year member]

Tweeter; http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/270-035.pdf

Mid; http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/280-020.pdf

Woofer; http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/290-023.pdf

I don't have the equipment to accurately measure the drivers, so I am using published data...

Now someone choose my XO points...only get one real shot at it...due to time/funds.

So Good Luck...and thanks for the help...

Click to read more...

 

[mavster 10+ year member]

anyone?

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

I'd say around 400hz and 4000hz.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

Depends on the width of the baffle, I would cross the woofer out where baffle diffraction becomes in issue. Obviously give it its own channel so you can control its level independent from the mid and tweeter either via an L-pad or digitally through he amplifier if possible...

f3 = 4560 / WB

Wb is in inches, design the enclosure for the woofer and stick to it. As for the mid/tweet, I would cross it over is high as possible to avoid an unnatural crossover in the vocal range...full range drivers are great for this application as well...

That particular mid has a very wild response, try to go with something else, maybe a dome midrange such as this: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=285-020

Edit: Come to think of it that tweeter looks nasty as well, the five dollar dayton tweeters look better //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/laugh.gif.48439b2acf2cfca21620f01e7f77d1e4.gifhttp://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-030

Power handling is a little low, but crossed over at 7-8K it may not be an issue...

Don't try to piece together a speakers system with only one brand, it will only lead to headaches, find what works best for the money...

 

[mavster 10+ year member]

If you can recommend a better Mid/Tweeter Pair, I would definately be interested...

Remember the Mid/Tweeter will be going on one channel... (100w @ 8ohms), And will be crossed together...

The woofers, will be LP on the other channel...

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

If you can recommend a better Mid/Tweeter Pair, I would definately be interested...
Remember the Mid/Tweeter will be going on one channel... (100w @ 8ohms), And will be crossed together...

The woofers, will be LP on the other channel...

The dome mid I linked looks good to me, your are never going to get the full 100 watts unless your playing test tones, as for the tweeter anything decent with good power handeling since it will be crossed over high...
Heres the graph for the midrange I posted above http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/285-020g.pdf

Dayton makes some quality tweeters for the money: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-070

Graph: http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/275-0701.pdf

Aim for a baffle width of 8-10 inches, woofers crossed over at 500hz, dome crossed at 5-600 with a steep slope, tweeter crossed in at around 8-10k

 

[mavster 10+ year member]

Well I am going to worth with a 2nd order crossover...

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

Well I am going to worth with a 2nd order crossover...

You are going to need to compromise somewhere, If I were you I would consider a 4th order high pass for the mid, otherwise be prepared to pay top dollar for something that can play that low, be that flat, and handle that much power with only a 2nd order...I really can't think of anything better for such a low price...
http://www.speakerdesign.net/dayton_rs/midrange/rs52/dayton_rs52.html

 

[mavster 10+ year member]

How about this tweeter...

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-055&scqty=2

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/275-055g.pdf

I would say no, its the same price as the one I posted earlier with a rising response and break up above 10k

 

[mavster 10+ year member]

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=295-010

How about a full range, in place of a mid?

Cross the full/tweeter at around 2k-3khz....

woofers/full around 500-700hz

 

[mavster 10+ year member]

OK I think I am going to go with this pair;

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=275-070&scqty=2

&

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=285-020&scqty=2

 

[BrianChia 10+ year member]

This whole thing is quickly elevating to a whole other level. Once you start to introduce the "reference" series midranges or high end extended range drivers... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

Not that it's a bad thing, but the prices will elevate quickly and with better drivers it is a waste to just guess and check crossover designs. The suggested drivers are really in a different class from the Pioneers and and to really maximize their potential, some kind of measuring and testing equipment should be used. I'd say just go for the original Pioneer design, crossing the highpass around 4000-5000hz and the lowpass crossed near the baffle step frequency for compensation. Try to keep 4 octaves apart if possible, so you won't complicate your crossover slopes. Then just use amp side resistance for attentuation and adjust each band accordingly by ear to what you prefer. Once you gain more experience then you can try to use better drivers and learn how to fine tune everything and perfect your crossovers.

Also, just to clarify, the crossover point is where the two slopes intersect, where the low pass and high pass outputs are equal. The crossover points between the mid and the low pass and between the mid and the high pass are identical. With a three way there are only 2 crossover points. You can set -#db attentuation points differently between 2 drivers, but you can't set different crossover points because there is only one.

 

[Fast1one 10+ year member]

This whole thing is quickly elevating to a whole other level. Once you start to introduce the "reference" series midranges or high end extended range drivers... //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif
Not that it's a bad thing, but the prices will elevate quickly and with better drivers it is a waste to just guess and check crossover designs. The suggested drivers are really in a different class from the Pioneers and and to really maximize their potential, some kind of measuring and testing equipment should be used. I'd say just go for the original Pioneer design, crossing the highpass around 4000-5000hz and the lowpass crossed near the baffle step frequency for compensation. Try to keep 4 octaves apart if possible, so you won't complicate your crossover slopes. Then just use amp side resistance for attentuation and adjust each band accordingly by ear to what you prefer. Once you gain more experience then you can try to use better drivers and learn how to fine tune everything and perfect your crossovers.

Also, just to clarify, the crossover point is where the two slopes intersect, where the low pass and high pass outputs are equal. The crossover points between the mid and the low pass and between the mid and the high pass are identical. With a three way there are only 2 crossover points. You can set -#db attentuation points differently between 2 drivers, but you can't set different crossover points because there is only one.

There is nothing wrong with using "reference" drivers, especially at the price you pay for in place of the pioneers...If he wants he can always upgrade his woofers and crossovers if need be....
I am sorry but your logic is pretty ridiculous, its 20-30 dollars more for drivers that are SIGNIFICANTLY better than the ones he originally posted...he already has the pioneer woofers....

Now if he went out and bought 500 dollars worth of equipment, I could see your logic, but its a 15 dollar tweeter and 28 dollar mid //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/confused.gif.e820e0216602db4765798ac39d28caa9.gif

OK I think I am going to go with this pair;
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...75-070&scqty=2

&

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...85-020&scqty=2

Good choice, Just go with a crossover point at around 600hz to make sure you don't fry that mid, as for the tweeter/mid transition I think 7-8K should be fine, once you learn more you can tweak it to your liking //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif

 

[mavster 10+ year member]

Honestly Brian, is pretty much right...

I don't have access to the proper equipment...

So being cost effective...I think I am going to stick with the original Pioneer stuff...

Remember this is just temporary for my living room....probably for next christmas I will do a full Dayton setup...

Brian expect a PM from me..