Passive and Active set up???

[rjcastr 10+ year member]

Will a combination of active and passive set up give me a good SQ result?

Since the tweeter and midrange are on kickpannels should i connect these to passive crossovers

Utilize processor for time allignment only

and connect subwoofer and midbass on full processor use?

Will a combination of both passive and active set up give me good results?

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[Side Show 10+ year member]

should do

 

[thch 10+ year member]

sure.

people typically use the setup you describe with good results. more adventerous types will also run the mid and tweeters off seperate amp channels to move the crossover to the pre-amp side.

if you think you might want to do that in the future, it might make sense to run wires for both the mid and the tweeter now. then you can experiment with where the passive filter can go, or play around with active filters. I'd also label both ends for good practice.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

Aren't you gonna use the h701?

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Run it all active, if you have the capability. Otherwise, your way will be okay.

 

[rjcastr 10+ year member]

Aren't you gonna use the h701?

Im running active with the PXA H701 but im trying to consolidate space and amplifiers, i have a total of 3 right now, but if i get good results with 2 running the

Midrange and tweeter on a crossover network utilize the Alpine F1 status 4 channel to run those then run the midbass off the other two channels

then all i have to do is run my mono amp to my sub and im set.

I'm just trying to determine whats more practical without giving up on quality of sound.

I would then utilze the processor for time alignement only for the tweeter and midrange

Hope all this makes sense

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

If you go partly passive, then you're just robbing yourself of some of your processing capabilities, just cause you don't want to add too more channels...

a pdx 2 channel under your seat won't waste any room.

 

[rjcastr 10+ year member]

I understand that aspect as well.

I dont have any space in under the seat i have a BMW im super tight on space //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif I might just build the right of my elevated false floor and use the Helix that i have.

I was just checking out my options.

Also, any system being ran in a bmw deteriorates the alternator within 2 years. The cost of a new alternator for my car is umm //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/crying.gif.ec0ebefe590df0251476573bc49e46d8.gif expensive as hell.

I was also thinking of that as well.

I will figuere it out soon, the box is being done for the Hertz Hi energy HX300

I will start putting it all together this weekend and have sound hopefully by the week to begin the first stage tuning.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Why limit yourself to the phase, slope and x-over point on those passives if you already have an active netork (H701) to do that. It's like buying a 4 ch amp and only using 2 ch.

Besides the lack of T/A, you also cannot attenuate the tweeter level unless the passive allows for it. Even then, it's no where near what the H701 can do (must be at least 1 dB steps).

Also, you really want all tuning and tweaking right at your finger tips if possible. Just wait till you start tuning and have to move your head to make an adjustment. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/frown.gif.a3531fa0534503350665a1e957861287.gif With the H701 running the show, then //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/smile.gif.1ebc41e1811405b213edfc4622c41e27.gif.

 

[rjcastr 10+ year member]

to minimize on the amps i could run 2 amps for my whole system or run 3 amps, meaning more strain on the alternator.

That was my reasoning behind trying to make it simpler.

 

[FoxPro5 5,000+ posts]

Doesn't seem to be something to worry about. For fun I ran seven Linear Power amps (yes, 7 two-channel amps all bridged) in my car for a few weeks. That's a shitload of unregulated power right there. Yes, it was an ungodly amount of headroom and overkill, but ohhh the beautiful sound. It was no problemo for a puney 85 amp alt, Big 3 and a good starter batt. Got 13.8v at the amps, in fact. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif

Not to sound like a smart ***, but you've been warned of the potential frustrating/hair pulling out tuning sessions.

 

[James Bang 5,000+ posts]

to minimize on the amps i could run 2 amps for my whole system or run 3 amps, meaning more strain on the alternator.
That was my reasoning behind trying to make it simpler.

2 compared to 3 amps isn't a big deal/difference IMO. It's not like you're going spl with high powered amps anyways.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Doesn't seem to be something to worry about. For fun I ran seven Linear Power amps (yes, 7 two-channel amps all bridged) in my car for a few weeks. That's a shitload of unregulated power right there. Yes, it was an ungodly amount of headroom and overkill, but ohhh the beautiful sound. It was no problemo for a puney 85 amp alt, Big 3 and a good starter batt. Got 13.8v at the amps, in fact. //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/wink.gif.608e3ea05f1a9f98611af0861652f8fb.gif
Not to sound like a smart ***, but you've been warned of the potential frustrating/hair pulling out tuning sessions.

85 amps @ 14.4 volts is 1200 watts. That includes what is needed for the car as well. So assuming this system was as powerful as you imply, that 85amp alt likely wouldn't have liked the situation for very long.

 

[donpisto 5,000+ posts]

If you go partly passive, then you're just robbing yourself of some of your processing capabilities, just cause you don't want to add too more channels...
a pdx 2 channel under your seat won't waste any room.

So true. I was going to install 5 PDX's in m spare tire well in my '01 Accord (had room for 6 actually).

Also, Adding the 4.150 to the PDX 1.1000, I didn't see any difference in current draw. With those two amps I never got dimming unless I really cranked it. I turned the volume down 2 or 3 notches and it was still quite loud when I wanted it to be and it did not dim. The PDX's are very efficient. Even when I run my Kicker ZX 2500.1 @ 4 ohms or my RF t30001bd @ 4 ohms I got significantly more noticeable dimming and voltage drop.

Going active you won't need as much power. I had the gains on my 4.150 set pretty much all the way down, maybe a couple notches above all the way down and my speakers got plenty loud (both the Iridium 6.2's and Zapco CK 16.2's). Ran them with the w200 and h701.

I'd personally go all active. As others mentioned, it would be a waste of the h701 if you don't run completely active. I don't see the amps drawing all that much more current, especially the 4 or 2 ch amps.

 

[audioholic 5,000+ posts]

Current draw of your stereo system will be MUCH more dependant on you (where you chose to set your volume knob) than it will be on which brand and how many amplifiers are mounted in your trunk. Remember, 'headroom' is power that is never actually used. If its used, its not headroom. So knowing this, 'headroom' watts will never faze your charging system.