old hcca 225 input voltage question

i want to see pop-top pics please //content.invisioncic.com/y282845/emoticons/santa.gif.e1ec9cf2e0a0dd232ad35aa594a126d0.gif and the manual..... it should be the same guts and ratings as the gen2 and gen4 (225r) the 35a fuse rating was in the gen1, which was rated for only 1ohm stereo/2ohm mono. that thing will do more than the rated 400, but cannot with the 35a fusing and not blow the fuses....

 
I saw someone posted upgrading the fixing for the alt, is this necessary? I was planning on doing a 4 gauge from battery to amps and a sipped ground near amps. What other grounds are necessary for entire install?

 
30A isn't going to cut it at low impedence. I'd say even 40A will pop if you get on it. I ran these back in the day (got a friend who still runs his that he has owned since early 90's) We always used to upgrade battery to chasis ground anyway. Most cars don't have adequate ground to roll down power windows and run the fan at the same time.

 
I have a download of the HCCA 225r manual and it shows 2x20 amp fuses (40 amps total). It also states input sensitivity as "200 milli-volts to 5 volts rms". These specs are for the r series that directly followed the pop-tops. Specs should be pretty close on both series.

Personally, I wouldn't use a high current amp at low imp (1 ohm mono or .5 ohm stereo) without doing the Big 3. If you choose to try it, atleast install a voltmeter to be on the safe side. I cannot stress enough how imprtant a good solid ground is on a high current amp. Whatever the factory calls for, I always use the next bigger size wire and double or triple check the ground contact point. Old school equipment is just that, old. But, it has usually lasted this long for one reason, it was made tough to begin with.

 
I don't think so I'm trying to use it. It's basically mint with warranty sticker in tact one owner previously.
Then do yourself a favor and do not run at those super low impedances. Run it at 4ohm mono and it'll probably last forever. Those old high current amps were not exactly reliable at 1ohm mono and when they blew it was usually so catastrophic that the board was toast.

 
U guys are scaring me from using this amp. So nobody runs these anymore? The third gen has a 30-35 amp fuse. I wasn't planning on doing big three and weary about trying it. I don't want to sell the amp either. I know there has to be someone who has used it on a stock electrical. I remember a buddy in high school ran one on stock alt 4 cylinder Toyota truck in the 90s and never had a problem

 
well, "stock electrical" basically indicates the stock alt and a single battery in the stock location. iirc, both my yotas had power issues in the 600watt+ range without upgrade. the 86 got dual alt. and 3 batteries, and the 90 4runner just got the "big3"...... before big 3 was a known term. heck, even at the shops up here, they look at a guy funny at that term, and just call it part of the power wire install. yes, it will run without the big3, but not well or reliable as it should, and it is not quite as involved of project as you think. can you please share/e-mail me the manual you have? i would like to read what you are reading. i would also like to see the board, to be sure that it's the same as gen2, and not gen4. gen 2 is basiacally the same build as the ppi/mtx 225's. and regarding the fusing, it was pretty common for amps to have multiple fuse ratings for different impedance loads, as well as some others also including needed additional cooling. this kind of info sometimes was only found in the installer manual, though, not the end user owner manual..... yes, that thing has it's collector value, and chances are, it is going to need to be re-capped in time, if not already, but the point of those amps was to run lower impedances to find it's real power. i don't know how old you are, but chances are, that one your buddy had in high school likely was on a pair of 4ohm subs, or 4ohm mono, which would only make the amp draw about 20-30a at the most, and maintain more like 10-15a, which is ok for stock wiring complete,and a single run of 8awg. kind of like using the power window with the headlights on. you obviously care about the amp, so do it a favor and don't starve it. can you tell me exactly what scares you about the "big3"?

 
I own 2 of these amps. They are 3rd generation 225s. They are the best of the HCCA 225s. I ran mine on an Eclipse 8v preout unit, and it had NO problems. The 2nd generations didnt like 6 or more. My Premier 860 made the 2nd gen amps constantly pop. The 3rd generations did not. At 4 to 5 volt, ANY HCCA can be ran and will love it. Your amp may have and came with a 30 amp fuse. Switch that out for a 40 amp fuse. I ran mine, when I first got it, on 3 JL 12w6 dual 6 ohm subs, all parallel and was loving it. I still have two 3rd gen "pop top" 225s, a 250, and a 2100. I love these amps, and I have hell finding a good comparison to them today. I ran these down to 1/2 ohm daily and they are still truckin. Hook ur amp up. Run it. I own them and run them. Im not telling you crap and not have CURRENT EXPERIENCE with the amp. I promise you this....you will very well be satisfied.

 
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